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Very Active Member
Replace the battery and clean all terminals plus chassis grounds. Thats my guess.
As for shooting it, that sounds cool too, and less expensive.
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Very Active Member
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Pulled a code..C1282.....3 year old battery
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Battery ....Odyssey PC 680? Best I can get?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by wilpir
Pulled a code..C1282.....3 year old battery
Originally Posted by wilpir
Battery ....Odyssey PC 680? Best I can get?
Well, that's the code for the brake failure message, (low pressure) but it doesn't support all of the other stuff that's going on. Possibly a red herring. And if all of this happened without even using the brake at the time, I'd focus on the battery terminals / battery first, too. If the terminals haven't been retightened in 3 years it could just be that. Clean, use star washers, charge / test battery, etc. Don't forget to check tightness of the ground connection under the seat. There's a nut underneath there. You'll need a wrench on both ends. And may as well pop open the front fusebox and push in on all of the relays to ensure they're seated. I always use the OEM Yuasa battery.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Very Active Member
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Yes the brake failure light switch happens ALL the time!! I live and park in the mountains..I learned the brake reset after paying almost $500 for a reset at dealer!!..battery was tightened not to long ago and is kept on a Battery Tender Jr. when not in use..maybe the heat got to it gonna be 115 today!!
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Battery on order..hope this fixes it....
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Replaced battery today ( took only 1/2 hr with Ody Battery Started right up no warnings! Ill go for a ride later..
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Sorry, I'm late to your party...Let's hope your battery replacement is the solution but if you have a slightly low brake fluid level you'll get a bunch of codes and it may not select gears or select them improperly. It only takes a small drop below the threshold to trigger the errors. As a fix you only need to get the level correct then take it for a wee ride and the codes will vanish.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
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Yes Sir! Love the rules too!
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Sounds like it could be a charging issue check out you Magneto/alternator
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Active Member
you are going to have to check a couple of things. When you get the battery charged up enough to start, you need to see the voltage at the battey. Running, it should climb to 14 plus volts if charging properly. If charging, then you need to remove the negitive cable from the battery, put a test light in series, if it glows bright, you have a draw in the system. Pull fuses until light goes out. Just did one that the gps mount shorted and drained battery overnight.
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Originally Posted by SpyderJerry
you are going to have to check a couple of things. When you get the battery charged up enough to start, you need to see the voltage at the battey. Running, it should climb to 14 plus volts if charging properly. If charging, then you need to remove the negitive cable from the battery, put a test light in series, if it glows bright, you have a draw in the system. Pull fuses until light goes out. Just did one that the gps mount shorted and drained battery overnight.
Sounds all in good but waaay beyond my capability...I will do a multi meter test on battery and charging system though first if battery charges up..Thanx
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Battery seemed to be charged up (green light on battery tender..also showed 13.5 volts on voltage gauge) Started right up but it was shifting ALL by itself from reverse to E to 1st and back again I wasnt touching anything? Like I said whole differant animal than I've ever owned!
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Very Active Member
Well it sounds like you have a short in the shifting circuit, ether in the paddle shifter or down in the tranny!
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Yes a short may have been causing battery drop also .I'll have to get it towed to dealer 45 miles away........or take out to desert and shoot it!! LOL Drove it on Sunday ran perfect now this JEEZ!!!
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Very Active Member
Electrical issues can some times be a pain in the butt!! Good luck, don't shoot it, some tree hugger will get you for harming a spider!!
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2012 RTL 3k when I bought in march now 13k . Have had multiple orange brake failure notices-always responds to a a couple teaspoons of brake fluid in reservoir. After I purchased about 300 miles it started an erractic idle from 1000-1400 rpm and shifted terribly. Did vacuum hoses ,seaform and several gallons of bs injector juices, Took it to dealer-replaced my new vac hoses -new spark plugs checked air filter:NOTHING HELPED. They called BRP: ReFlashed ECU with BUDS. Perfecto! Voila! Sry no advice on your battery issue...But if you have any frkin extra lights that you didn't put on it that are or any additional BS that isnt stock BEWARE!!!! These machines can be very sensitive to voltage/amp changes within the computers. The dealer said they actually had BRP replace a whole new bike as it ran like crap then they found out it was some lighting system that the new buyer had installed and it screwed the whole bike up. The dealer took it off and re-sold the spyder.
DONT GIVE UP!! I love mine but it scare the crap outta me the first month.
BTW my wife drives it now and Labor day I bought a 14 RTS for me !!
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Just went out and tried to check all battery connections...ground next to shrader valve was a little loose but not much ..tried to tighten loose positive wire on starter solenoid and it snapped off !! Now I have to replace it AGAIN from previous problems...really disheartening...dealer way to go I guess but the last time I went there they charged me over $500 to flush brake system and reset brake message .I hate getting taken but its the only game around..4 differant dealers all the same owners...
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Another option is trading it in for a 1330 if you can afford it?
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yea that would be good but whos gonna take a trade on a bike that doesn't run? LOL I'll replace starter sol again and take it in..just dont want to spend a fortune on a bike thats not reliable at all...
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Most of us have had real good results from the 1330's. Have 35K on my 14 RT and only issue was the DESS but not really a big issue. I could always disable it to and be done with it.
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