Frustration - intermittent Check engine light & no shifting?!

[Korthner]

Had some problems with my 2016 Spyder RT Limited (posted about it back on July 31). The consensus was that there was an electrical problem, took it into the dealer, they diagnosed a faulty computer. Computer replaced, drove the bike back home Saturday, 2 hour ride, no sweat! Sunday I'm wanting to take the bride for a ride, get all geared up, get out to the bike, again I had the "check engine light", and no shifting. Did a check and had a bunch of error codes. Needless to say I am somewhat P%%%%d at the dealer. Today I got the trailer to haul it back up to the dealer, just to check it, I jumped on, started it up, no "check engine light", shifted OK, got it onto the trailer, no error codes

Can anyone suggest whats happening?? I'm afraid to take it anywhere now!

Help please

Ken Orthner

[PW2013STL]

I would start by checking that the battery connections are tite, and I mean with a 10mm wrench or socket. If tite than have the battery load tested to make sure it's good.
A lot of issues are a result of poor battery, or connections.

[Bfromla]

Double check battery & fuses for sure. If can catch the light try fetching codes, will help point to other things to check.

[Lew L]

4 year old battery????? I also bet on connections ( and a battery load test) Few dealers have the collective knowledge of Lovers

Lew L

[JayBros]

I agree on the battery, particularly a load check. When I intentionally let my 4+ year old battery die to test my Rugged Geek I couldn't believe the weird stuff that came across the RECC screen as it died in a Walmart parking lot.

[BajaRon]

I would also throw my hat into the battery connections and battery health ring. Not only be sure the connections are tight. But that they are squeaky clean. Bright metal on bright metal. The ground wire connection is also very important. Spyders are extremely power sensitive. A battery going bad or a bad connection can create a number of seemingly unrelated problems. As a matter of fact. I'd say do these checks first for just about any intermittent problem that is not hard part related. It can't hurt.

I don't know why dealerships tend to start troubleshooting by throwing expensive parts at the problem. When many times, it's just a simple power issue.

[PMK]

Battery is a logical route. After that check the gearbox position sensor.

[Spin]

Many electrical problems are caused by a bad ground. Like others have said, load test battery and check grounds.