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Active Member
F3 - adjustable peg and brake rod ?
Hi,
does anybody find a way to easily move the peg and brake rod on an F3 ?
My wife wants to use the Spyder and she's 6" shorter that me. Usually, I had my pegs at position 5 and for her, position 3 is the best.
I can imagine we can modify the brake rod to have a kind of slinding tube with pins to lock it in place and easily move it from one position to the other.
But, for the pegs, there's 2 bolts on each side which i would like to have something easier. I was thinking about a kind of clamp, like what is used for a bicycle seat.
I know that it might brings up some security challenges and even if it's easier to remove, it should be as solid as the original setup.
Anybody made something or have an idea ?
thanks
X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner
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Once you remove the (2) bolts on each pedal assembly for the 1st time (flippin' BRP and their overuse of that crappy yellow Loctite), I'd say you could probably move the pegs (minus the brake linkage) in about 5 minutes.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by MONK
Once you remove the (2) bolts on each pedal assembly for the 1st time (flippin' BRP and their overuse of that crappy yellow Loctite), I'd say you could probably move the pegs (minus the brake linkage) in about 5 minutes.
You are right. But you also need to replace all the bolts. they are in stainless and so soft, after removing and replaced them once, I have one with its hex head mor round than Hex.
Possibly replacing them with something better is the way to go.
I'd like to find an effective solution to be able to do so without any tools. Maybe I'm asking too much
X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner
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Very Active Member
I made my brake rod adjustable using the method you stated. The photo shows that I uses 4 roll puns, but you could use R-pins (clevis pins) for ease of changing lengths.
The sleeve is a 6" long 3/8" pipe nipple, but a longer one can be used for more adjustment. The pipe will need to be bored out with a 1/2" drill and the rods shaved down to a slip fit. I cut the threaded ends off for appearance sake.
BRAKE ROD.jpg
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by RICZ
I made my brake rod adjustable using the method you stated. The photo shows that I uses 4 roll puns, but you could use R-pins (clevis pins) for ease of changing lengths.
BRAKE ROD.jpg
I must admit that your solution is one of my inspiration
I already have rod #3 and #5. I can easily use one of them to do exactly like you did.
X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner
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formerly pman2011
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2018 Intense Red F3T (See About Me under My Profile for mods)
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2014 Timeless Black RTS-SE6, 34,300 Miles, traded May 2019
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by MagYukon
I must admit that your solution is one of my inspiration
I already have rod #3 and #5. I can easily use one of them to do exactly like you did.
I left out that I cut about an inch out of the center of the rod. My purpose was to lower the brake pedal to where I could just swing my foot on to it.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by YIRYDE
I'm a cheap bastard! Besides, I love to do my own "work arounds" as I call them. It keeps the brain cells active.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
I replaced the OEM bolts with grade 8 socket head cap screws. Deeper hex socket and stronger bolts. Put it back together with blue Locktite. Only takes a few minutes to change them. The original brake rod that was on it when I picked it up from the dealer is still hanging on the wall in the shop.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by MagYukon
You are right. But you also need to replace all the bolts. they are in stainless and so soft, after removing and replaced them once, I have one with its hex head mor round than Hex.
One way to deal with "round" hex is to get a proper sized torx but and hammer it in there to get enough grab to get it out.
Originally Posted by RICZ
I made my brake rod adjustable using the method you stated. The photo shows that I uses 4 roll puns, but you could use R-pins (clevis pins) for ease of changing lengths.
The sleeve is a 6" long 3/8" pipe nipple, but a longer one can be used for more adjustment. The pipe will need to be bored out with a 1/2" drill and the rods shaved down to a slip fit. I cut the threaded ends off for appearance sake.
BRAKE ROD.jpg
I thought about putting all thread into the inside of the brake rod which would give you a setting much finer than the whole inches that a new rod supplies. My plan was to do that when I returned to Ohio this past spring, but the mismanagement of the COVID killed those plans. I don't even know if it's hollow and those who have cut one can let me know. I did lower my pedal by drilling the yoke.
brake-rod.jpg
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