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Front pads replacement - what tools are needed?
Going on a trip next week so I might replace the front pads as on one of the sides it should be around 1.5 and 2mm (rear was done recently at the dealer).
EBC's FA630HH pads are on the way.
What tools should I need beside the jack?
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Very Active Member
For the front you don't need any thing special that you don't have kicking around! Good luck, piece of cake!! Oh, just remembered make sure you put some of that brake paste on the backside of the pads to keep them from squealing! https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...4&d=1595901703
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Thanks Mikey.
From the videos I've seen on youtube:
I'll need 21mn lug wrench for the wheels and a T30 Torx to remove the locking pin.
Seems it can be done without removing the calipers so an Allen wrench might not be needed.
What are the recommended tightening torques for the clip and the lug nuts of the wheels?
Also would it be OK to lift the the wheel by the lower suspension arm? Instead of lifting the whole front by the frame?
Can get my hands on that brake paste here (Europe) so I'll have to go without, but I've ordered a good brake cleaner, not sure if it will help though.
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Very Active Member
I would think some type of disc brake paste would be available in Portugal. I am sure you have disc brakes there and I am just as sure that they squeal. Check with a brake specialty shop in your area about brake squeal and how they solve it, maybe it is called something else in Portuguese.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
The lug nut torque spec is in your operator's guide. The brake pad pin torque is 46 Nm or 34 lbft. The service manual says to use blue Loctite on the pins.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by MakoShark2
Thanks Mikey.
From the videos I've seen on youtube:
I'll need 21mn lug wrench for the wheels and a T30 Torx to remove the locking pin.
Seems it can be done without removing the calipers so an Allen wrench might not be needed.
What are the recommended tightening torques for the clip and the lug nuts of the wheels?
Also would it be OK to lift the the wheel by the lower suspension arm? Instead of lifting the whole front by the frame?
Can get my hands on that brake paste here (Europe) so I'll have to go without, but I've ordered a good brake cleaner, not sure if it will help though.
Yes no need to remove caliber for front brakes
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Active Member
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Originally Posted by mcalva
Yes, LiquiMoly that's the only one I've seen available here, just ordered thanks.
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Originally Posted by JayBros
The lug nut torque spec is in your operator's guide. The brake pad pin torque is 46 Nm or 34 lbft. The service manual says to use blue Loctite on the pins.
Perfect, thanks.
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Also would it be OK to lift the the wheel by the lower suspension arm? Instead of lifting the whole front by the frame?
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Very Active Member
I lift mine with my Craftsman motorcycle lift and place the jack stands right beneath where there the shock bolts to the lower A-arm. That's the same place where I would place a jack if I was lifting one wheel. I personally would not try to lift the Spyder from beneath the middle of the A-arm without using a well placed piece of 2x6 to spread the load. I just don't know how strong the A-arms are. I may be all wet.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
Lifting by the lower suspension arm is fine. Place a rag in the lift's pad to avoid paint damage. I've done front brake work one side at a time to keep it simple.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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All the info I need.
Thank you all!
Parts should be here by the end of the week, I'll let you know how it went.
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Very Active Member
After you change the pads but BEFORE you turn on the ignition you are supposed to pump the brake pedal several times. If you did not do that, that's why you got the brake failure message.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Oh yes, forgot to mention. I did that to push the pistons back against the pads and the rotors. Pressed the pedal several times until it wasn't soft anymore.
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Very Active Member
Since the code did not come back the second time you turned on the ignition switch it is not active. If you get dealer service for anything have them check for and clear any inactive codes.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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All good.
Just got home from a 1500 miles trip with no issues.
Real good brake power and no "squealing" anymore.
I do noticed a "swwwishhhhh" sound when braking which I'm not sure I had with the stock pads.
Thank's to all.
Now thinking on doing the annual maintenance myself. Got to check if it's just replacing oil and filters and what I'll need.
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I have a question and I may be asking a dumb one...but I see a lot of what is the torque specs but my question is when your tightening a bold how do you know you have tightened it down to the specs in the book? is there a tool for that...I usually just tighten things down hand tight or until i cant tighten anymore...am i looking at it wrong?
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Very Active Member
Google bolt torque guide or something similar and you'll get charts like this one.....
https://www.fastenal.com/content/mer...ce%20Guide.pdf
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
Kennygee what you are looking for is called a torque wrench. It has a dial, indicator pointer or release point that tells you when you have a hit the correct torque. Snap on MAC, Harbour freight, Amazon, all have them at various prices. I have an old 3/8 drive Snap on Clicker (release type) that I use. I have had it since 1972.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
-
Tools..
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
Kennygee what you are looking for is called a torque wrench. It has a dial, indicator pointer or release point that tells you when you have a hit the correct torque. Snap on MAC, Harbour freight, Amazon, all have them at various prices. I have an old 3/8 drive Snap on Clicker (release type) that I use. I have had it since 1972.
Thank you for the fast reply...I was watching a YouTube video of a guy that says a quote and I think its his you tube name....IT'S YOURS, OWN IT...so it is awesome having this family of spyder riders to learn from...
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