Front pads replacement - what tools are needed?

[MakoShark2]

Going on a trip next week so I might replace the front pads as on one of the sides it should be around 1.5 and 2mm (rear was done recently at the dealer).

EBC's FA630HH pads are on the way.

What tools should I need beside the jack?

[Mikey]

For the front you don't need any thing special that you don't have kicking around! Good luck, piece of cake!! Oh, just remembered make sure you put some of that brake paste on the backside of the pads to keep them from squealing! https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...4&d=1595901703

[MakoShark2]

Thanks Mikey.

From the videos I've seen on youtube:

I'll need 21mn lug wrench for the wheels and a T30 Torx to remove the locking pin.
Seems it can be done without removing the calipers so an Allen wrench might not be needed.

What are the recommended tightening torques for the clip and the lug nuts of the wheels?

Also would it be OK to lift the the wheel by the lower suspension arm? Instead of lifting the whole front by the frame?

Can get my hands on that brake paste here (Europe) so I'll have to go without, but I've ordered a good brake cleaner, not sure if it will help though.

[pegasus1300]

I would think some type of disc brake paste would be available in Portugal. I am sure you have disc brakes there and I am just as sure that they squeal. Check with a brake specialty shop in your area about brake squeal and how they solve it, maybe it is called something else in Portuguese.

[JayBros]

The lug nut torque spec is in your operator's guide. The brake pad pin torque is 46 Nm or 34 lbft. The service manual says to use blue Loctite on the pins.

[bmccaffrey]

Thanks Mikey.

From the videos I've seen on youtube:

I'll need 21mn lug wrench for the wheels and a T30 Torx to remove the locking pin.
Seems it can be done without removing the calipers so an Allen wrench might not be needed.

What are the recommended tightening torques for the clip and the lug nuts of the wheels?

Also would it be OK to lift the the wheel by the lower suspension arm? Instead of lifting the whole front by the frame?

Can get my hands on that brake paste here (Europe) so I'll have to go without, but I've ordered a good brake cleaner, not sure if it will help though.

Yes no need to remove caliber for front brakes

[mcalva]

You can find the Brake paste on Amazon. I bougth that from spain.

https://www.amazon.es/Liqui-Moly-307.../dp/B00295ERQ2
or
https://www.amazon.es/Liqui-Moly-307...pcontext&psc=1

[MakoShark2]

You can find the Brake paste on Amazon. I bougth that from spain.

https://www.amazon.es/Liqui-Moly-307.../dp/B00295ERQ2
or
https://www.amazon.es/Liqui-Moly-307...pcontext&psc=1

Yes, LiquiMoly that's the only one I've seen available here, just ordered thanks.

[MakoShark2]

The lug nut torque spec is in your operator's guide. The brake pad pin torque is 46 Nm or 34 lbft. The service manual says to use blue Loctite on the pins.

Perfect, thanks.

[MakoShark2]

Also would it be OK to lift the the wheel by the lower suspension arm? Instead of lifting the whole front by the frame?

[JayBros]

I lift mine with my Craftsman motorcycle lift and place the jack stands right beneath where there the shock bolts to the lower A-arm. That's the same place where I would place a jack if I was lifting one wheel. I personally would not try to lift the Spyder from beneath the middle of the A-arm without using a well placed piece of 2x6 to spread the load. I just don't know how strong the A-arms are. I may be all wet.

[RICZ]

Lifting by the lower suspension arm is fine. Place a rag in the lift's pad to avoid paint damage. I've done front brake work one side at a time to keep it simple.

[JayBros]

Thanks, Ric.

[MakoShark2]

All the info I need.

Thank you all!

Parts should be here by the end of the week, I'll let you know how it went.

[MakoShark2]

So, it's done

Most of the time was spent figuring how to lift the the front wheels about 2 inches so I coul get the jack under the suspension arm.
That's because the jack has a pad with about 3 inches of rubber.

So I had to get creative and I finally managed to place the spyder over a solid wooden door which was enough to then lift the wheels (one at a time) with the jack.

Everything else came off easily (didn't removed the callipers). Wear was pretty even on the old pads, I had about 1.5mm on the right side and a bit less than 2mm on the left.

Cleaned the whole thing, rubbed the outter side of the pads with the anti squeal stuff. Pushed the pistons with fingers and placed the new pads.

Pad pins came off very easily so 46Nm/34lbft seemed way too much for tightening.

Recommended tightening torque for lug nuts is about 110Nm which seemed right as the wheel material looks kind of soft.

And I had just finished the second wheel when I saw the little wire pin for the brake pad pin on the floor...

Thank god I managed to put it back without removing the wheel again.

Then turned on the Spyder and had a brake failure error message

Turn it off and on again, and it was gone... I'm assuming this is normal and maybe it must have to do with the ABS sensor reseting itself...
Anyway I'll check the brake fluid level tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for helping.

[JayBros]

After you change the pads but BEFORE you turn on the ignition you are supposed to pump the brake pedal several times. If you did not do that, that's why you got the brake failure message.

[MakoShark2]

Oh yes, forgot to mention. I did that to push the pistons back against the pads and the rotors. Pressed the pedal several times until it wasn't soft anymore.

[JayBros]

Since the code did not come back the second time you turned on the ignition switch it is not active. If you get dealer service for anything have them check for and clear any inactive codes.

[MakoShark2]

All good.

Just got home from a 1500 miles trip with no issues.

Real good brake power and no "squealing" anymore.
I do noticed a "swwwishhhhh" sound when braking which I'm not sure I had with the stock pads.

Thank's to all.

Now thinking on doing the annual maintenance myself. Got to check if it's just replacing oil and filters and what I'll need.

[kennygee]

I have a question and I may be asking a dumb one...but I see a lot of what is the torque specs but my question is when your tightening a bold how do you know you have tightened it down to the specs in the book? is there a tool for that...I usually just tighten things down hand tight or until i cant tighten anymore...am i looking at it wrong?

[RICZ]

Google bolt torque guide or something similar and you'll get charts like this one.....
https://www.fastenal.com/content/mer...ce%20Guide.pdf

[pegasus1300]

Kennygee what you are looking for is called a torque wrench. It has a dial, indicator pointer or release point that tells you when you have a hit the correct torque. Snap on MAC, Harbour freight, Amazon, all have them at various prices. I have an old 3/8 drive Snap on Clicker (release type) that I use. I have had it since 1972.

[kennygee]

Kennygee what you are looking for is called a torque wrench. It has a dial, indicator pointer or release point that tells you when you have a hit the correct torque. Snap on MAC, Harbour freight, Amazon, all have them at various prices. I have an old 3/8 drive Snap on Clicker (release type) that I use. I have had it since 1972.

Thank you for the fast reply...I was watching a YouTube video of a guy that says a quote and I think its his you tube name....IT'S YOURS, OWN IT...so it is awesome having this family of spyder riders to learn from...