Noob

[Curler]

New to this forum today after buying a 2008 GS Premiere with 14,500 km yesterday privately. I'm 84 and dropped (the first time ever and a lot of bikes) my CTX700T on my left ankle 6 weeks ago. Maybe time for 3 wheels I thought. Going through the bike today I have some questions. Bear with me on this; the answers are likely found somewhere here but as a 1 day person I am yet unfamiliar with this site.
1. Tried to check the coolant and the antifreeze level. Hard to tell the coolant level and the antifreeze tester tube would not fit into the reservoir.. Am I missing something here?
2. On the left upper side there is what appears to be a 12V receptacle. It says John Deere on it! It looks similar to a BMW port. Is this in/out like the SAE 2 wire pigtail that I am used to using? Is it even live? Is the receptacle unique to CanAm. Have not seen one like this before.
3. Checked the tires. 25 PSI in the front. Book says 17. Reset. Just a mistake by the previous owner? About 28 in the rear (a PITA to check) which agrees with the book.
4. Parking brake went down without the brake being applied and took some doing to get it back up. Gently pushed it after, and the cable at the rear wheel moves so if there is a problem it would appear to be in the wheel. I was reluctant to try to apply it all the way again after the first episode.
I appreciate any help anyone can give me; any general comments about this bike also welcome.
I'll try to do more research myself hereafter.
Thanks.

[Freddy]

Hi Curler - welcome. Here's the answer to Q4: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...g-brake-repair

Q3: 16-18psi in the rear is perfect. When you get a new rear tyre, get a 2" valve stem fitted. Sometimes the rear pulley is fitted so the spokes don't align with the wheel spokes, making it even more difficult.

Q2: Obviously fitted by previous owner. I have a similar one. Check with a test light for power.

Q1: The plastic tank does have a small neck but that's common on many vehicles these days. Those early tanks had a bad habit of splitting, but it's probably already been replaced with the later better quality one. Regarding the radiator - it has a drain plug. DO NOT attempt to remove it or it will break right off the radiator.

Bad luck about the ankle. I hope I'm still doing as good as you in 15 years time.

[Freddy]

When you get a chance, get the front drive pulley bolt slightly loosened and retorqued to 110ftlb.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...08#post1533508


Is you trike SE5 or SM5? Just curious.

[Curler]

Thanks for the response. Question remain - where do I find the male unit for this 12V receptacle? Not up on Spyder nomenclature but I think you are asking is it manual or semi-auto (I haven't found the ID plate yet) - it is a 5 speed manual. I'll work on some way to get an antifreeze reading.

[Peter Aawen]

Hi Curler, welcome to the Forum & the wonderful world of Spyders!

Can't help much with the others, but I can offer a bit on a couple of your questions....

Q2 - that 'left upper side there is what appears to be a 12V receptacle' that looks similar to a BMW power port is most likely an aftermarket power outlet fitted by a previous owner, and if I remember the BMW outlets correctly, then it's probably simply a 'Hella Power DIN Accessory Plug for BMW Motorcycles' or even more simply, what's known as a 'Merit' plug! Check this one out & tell us if that's what you look like needing?!
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HELLA-PO...edirect=mobile

- these should be readily available from any auto parts & accessory store, they are almost as common here in Australia as the 'standard' cigarette plugs & outlets are in the a/mkt accessory world here, simply because they provide better contact, better grip & so remain plugged in better, and can handle more power without over-heating than those std 'cigarette lighter' style jobbies.

Q3 - if your tires are still the OE Spec Kendas, then;

1) check their age & toss them if they're any older than about 5 years, with an absolute max of 7 years - I recommend replacing them (almost regardless of age/wear levels, too! ) with stronger, better, cheaper, and all round nicer 'normal' auto tires that meet or exceed the load & speed ratings! And don't let any dealer feed you the BS about auto tires not fitting being 'less safe' or even interfering with the VSS etc, the Spyder Rims are 'J' type CAR rims & auto tires have proven over the millions of miles run by many other Spyder Owners/Ryders to work just as well/safely if not better than the Dealer/BRP mandated Kenda crap!! If you take the rims off yourself, which is not too hard, just about any tire fitter worth paying should be able to fit 'proper' tires onto those rims without any concerns; &

2) if you already have a stronger, better/heavier constructed AUTO tire fitted onto the rear, then that tire needs somewhat less air in it than the lighter Kendas do to work at its best under your lightweight Spyder vs the pressure it'd need if it was running under a car! Generally, for the majority of Ryders, Spyders, and the loads they impose on the rear tire, you'll only need something between saay 16-18 psi, and if you leave it running at anything much higher then your tire will very likely suffer from over-inflation wear in the centre &/or reduced traction & other tire related ride & handling compromises as a result. But if it's an auto tire that's been on the Spyder for a while already, then there's a good chance those adverse wear patterns have already worn out the middle of the tread enough that you won't be able to fix it on this tire! Look for the 'tread wear indicators' in the middle of the tread pattern - if they are fully exposed or even within about 1mm of the tread surface, it's probably time for a new tire!

There's lotsa tire & tire pressure threads here already with a vaaaast amount of discussion & advice there-in, and you can also PM me or anyone else if you want more info. Over to you - hope that helps some!

[Freddy]

Also, a 205/55-15 rear tyre fits better than the stock one plus buy or make a belt guard that stops pebbles from the rt front wheel getting into the belt on the left of the rear tyre.




And the rear fender brackets tend to crack/break so check then out too.

[Mikey]

Hi Curler, welcome to the Forum & the wonderful world of Spyders!

Can't help much with the others, but I can offer a bit on a couple of your questions....

Q2 - that 'left upper side there is what appears to be a 12V receptacle' that looks similar to a BMW power port is most likely an aftermarket power outlet fitted by a previous owner, and if I remember the BMW outlets correctly, then it's probably simply a 'Hella Power DIN Accessory Plug for BMW Motorcycles' or even more simply, what's known as a 'Merit' plug! Check this one out & tell us if that's what you look like needing?!
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HELLA-PO...edirect=mobile

- these should be readily available from any auto parts & accessory store, they are almost as common here in Australia as the 'standard' cigarette plugs & outlets are in the a/mkt accessory world here, simply because they provide better contact, better grip & so remain plugged in better, and can handle more power without over-heating than those std 'cigarette lighter' style jobbies.

Q3 - if your tires are still the OE Spec Kendas, then;

1) check their age & toss them if they're any older than about 5 years, with an absolute max of 7 years - I recommend replacing them (almost regardless of age/wear levels, too! ) with stronger, better, cheaper, and all round nicer 'normal' auto tires that meet or exceed the load & speed ratings! And don't let any dealer feed you the BS about auto tires not fitting being 'less safe' or even interfering with the VSS etc, the Spyder Rims are 'J' type CAR rims & auto tires have proven over the millions of miles run by many other Spyder Owners/Ryders to work just as well/safely if not better than the Dealer/BRP mandated Kenda crap!! If you take the rims off yourself, which is not too hard, just about any tire fitter worth paying should be able to fit 'proper' tires onto those rims without any concerns; &

2) if you already have a stronger, better/heavier constructed AUTO tire fitted onto the rear, then that tire needs somewhat less air in it than the lighter Kendas do to work at its best under your lightweight Spyder vs the pressure it'd need if it was running under a car! Generally, for the majority of Ryders, Spyders, and the loads they impose on the rear tire, you'll only need something between saay 16-18 psi, and if you leave it running at anything much higher then your tire will very likely suffer from over-inflation wear in the centre &/or reduced traction & other tire related ride & handling compromises as a result. But if it's an auto tire that's been on the Spyder for a while already, then there's a good chance those adverse wear patterns have already worn out the middle of the tread enough that you won't be able to fix it on this tire! Look for the 'tread wear indicators' in the middle of the tread pattern - if they are fully exposed or even within about 1mm of the tread surface, it's probably time for a new tire!

There's lotsa tire & tire pressure threads here already with a vaaaast amount of discussion & advice there-in, and you can also PM me or anyone else if you want more info. Over to you - hope that helps some!

Peter, I wondering if his outlets not a standard cigerate plug type, he said it said John Deere on it! It would be easier if we had a picture of some of the issues.

[Peter Aawen]

Peter, I wondering if his outlets not a standard cigerate plug type, he said it said John Deere on it! It would be easier if we had a picture of some of the issues.

Could be Mikey, but he did say "It looks similar to a BMW port" and IIRC, they actually are those HELLA Merit Plugs as per the one shown in the ebay link I put up. Pics might help, sure, but it's not always easy for some to take &/or post them; but going by the description, I reck oin it's a pretty good chance that's what it is!

[Curler]

The Hella power plug looks right. Will snoop around for one. Hadn't experienced one before. BTW, there is 12V there with the key on or off. Thanks for your help. Also BTW, my goal here was to have a bit of a project and to 'experience' the Spyder before my body gives out on me. If I can get 5,000 km or so out of this thing this fall and next spring, I think I'll be happy and maybe be able to go back to the CTX. That being said, while I have to be safe, I don't want to spend my retirement home and diaper money on it. Unfortunately not too far away. I don't need to make it 'my bike' with mods etc; been there done that a few times already. I have no maintenance records so an oil & filter change will be done and basic safety checks made. The stock tires, while 12 years old and maybe timed out all have good tread and my plan, right or wrong, is to run them for my projected km's. Exhaust is stock - noisy! I like quiet. Maybe a gasket. Will pursue that a bit.
I appreciate all comments. Obviously on a learning curve with this bike and I am not too proud to get any help I can.

[larryd]

The Hella power plug looks right. Will snoop around for one. Hadn't experienced one before. BTW, there is 12V there with the key on or off. Thanks for your help. Also BTW, my goal here was to have a bit of a project and to 'experience' the Spyder before my body gives out on me. If I can get 5,000 km or so out of this thing this fall and next spring, I think I'll be happy and maybe be able to go back to the CTX. That being said, while I have to be safe, I don't want to spend my retirement home and diaper money on it. Unfortunately not too far away. I don't need to make it 'my bike' with mods etc; been there done that a few times already. I have no maintenance records so an oil & filter change will be done and basic safety checks made. The stock tires, while 12 years old and maybe timed out all have good tread and my plan, right or wrong, is to run them for my projected km's. Exhaust is stock - noisy! I like quiet. Maybe a gasket. Will pursue that a bit.
I appreciate all comments. Obviously on a learning curve with this bike and I am not too proud to get any help I can.

These early 998 GS bikes had frequent exhaust gasket failures...Someone came up with a Honda gasket part number that was an exact fit...Maybe someone can help with that Honda number if that is what's needed??? Those Early bikes were pretty much trouble free...There was a DPS steering recall on all those...larryd

[Freddy]

See reply 4 for Honda part number.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...t=honda+gasket

[dickim]

+1 On Freddy comments re belt guard, I have a 200m gravel driveway that made me paranoid until I did. Re the coolant tank, don't assume it has been changed, mine's an 08 19,000km and when I checked level and topped up was when I found the split! it ran a good temp even on clearly a low level but....... also had sprocket torque checked.

[Curler]

Update
-about 100 km's on the bike now. Around the city, in the garage, some highway etc getting to know the bike. Feels good. Rode my CTX700 the other day; felt quite weird now.
-having the service manual is really handy. Got the parking brake working.
-oil change and check over by the dealer next week. Only game in town and they are busy.
-the stock rear tire (225/50-15) has obviously been ridden over inflated. OK for the short term. Will talk with the dealer next week about Kendas and car tires.
-all tires are original - only 14,500 km on them. What kind of tire life can I expect? I ride the speed limit; no burnouts here!
-inside the upper right side panel the foam pad is covered with some heat shield material. The left side has only the foam and is much hotter. Will need to find something similar for the left side.
-there is a heated grip switch on the right side. They don't work. Traced the wire to the left side where it is connected to the switched acc. port. Fuse is good, 12V at the good connection. Have had heated grips on my last 5 bikes and they are a bit of a priority for me. Not sure where to go from here.
Thanks for listening to the ramblings of a noob. As usual, comments appreciated.

[pegasus1300]

Original Kendas wear in the center because the tire bulges as you ride. You can adjust the pressure until you are blue in the face and it isn't hoing to chsnge the wear pattern. If that truely is the original tire it is now 12 years old and past it's expiration date. Best change to a car tire . If your dealer will put one on for you or if you are up to removing the rear wheel yourself you can go to a car tire much better life,ride,handling,traction regardless of how hard(or easy) you ride. Welcome to the group

[Curler]

Talked to the dealer today. BRP does not allow them to mount a car tire on a Spyder. Some liability thing he mentioned. He agrees that a car tire is a good choice but he cannot do it. There may be dealers who will do that, but the one and only we have here won't. So far I have not found any other bike shops here who work on Spyders. I don't have the facility or probably the strength, stamina & drive anymore to remove it myself. We'll see what develops when I see them next week. Thanks for the response.

[Peter Aawen]

Talked to the dealer today. BRP does not allow them to mount a car tire on a Spyder. Some liability thing he mentioned. He agrees that a car tire is a good choice but he cannot do it. There may be dealers who will do that, but the one and only we have here won't. So far I have not found any other bike shops here who work on Spyders. I don't have the facility or probably the strength, stamina & drive anymore to remove it myself. We'll see what develops when I see them next week. Thanks for the response.

You don't actually want (or need) a 'bike shop' to change the tires on your Spyder - just about any auto tire fitting outlet should be able to do the front tires for you (altho they might need to use a couple of trolley jacks instead of a table lift) and if you ask them nicely & are prepared to pay for their time, you could probably even convince a good tire outlet to remove & replace the rear tire too.... but you/they might need some 'knowledgeable assistance' to do that and to make sure the brake caliper and belt is refitted exactly where they were (ABS/speed sensor spacing & belt alignment ) and at the correct tension!

That said, if you can raise your Spyder with a jack and axle stands, and you can get down low enough (& back up again! ) to spin a spanner or two on the back axle/brake caliper assy, it really isn't all that difficult to remove & replace the rear wheel, so maybe you could do it yourself? Then you could take it in to just about any competent tire fitter & get the tire of your choice fitted, even if they can't actually balance it cos they don't have the correct sized spindle adaptors (altho a 'really' good place would get them in to do the job for you & others tho - just sayin'! ) But most modern properly constructed tires shouldn't need too much balancing anyway, and in my experience, if the rear tire for your Spyder/Ryker has been mounted correctly, it's rarely an issue to run it as is, even if it is technically 'un-balanced'....

[Curler]

After +- 200 km and 3 weeks around the city to get used to the new-to-me 2008 GS, and my first ever Spyder, I did a 300 km road trip today. All good except I got my left knee fried from the close proximity to the exhaust. Right side is fine. This is obviously not a new problem to this forum, and rather then re-invent the wheel, I'm hoping to draw on some expertise from the members as to how they managed to alleviate or eliminate the problem. Any help appreciated.

[ARtraveler]

and on your Spyder.

[Freddy]

After +- 200 km and 3 weeks around the city to get used to the new-to-me 2008 GS, and my first ever Spyder, I did a 300 km road trip today. All good except I got my left knee fried from the close proximity to the exhaust. Right side is fine. This is obviously not a new problem to this forum, and rather then re-invent the wheel, I'm hoping to draw on some expertise from the members as to how they managed to alleviate or eliminate the problem. Any help appreciated.

1. wear thick riding jeans always.

2. wrap the left exhaust pipe.