Where's the best place to get Rear Wheel Bearings?

[TONYO]

OK.... Gonna be replacing my rear tire soon. At 40,000 miles on my 2014 ST, should I just go ahead and replace the rear bearings? They don't make any noise. And..... Where is the best place to get em? TYIA Tony

[Mikey]

I would check them and see how they feel with your finger, if they feel dry or when you turn them with your finger they feel bumpy like there's dirt in there, get them out of there!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK.... Gonna be replacing my rear tire soon. At 40,000 miles on my 2014 ST, should I just go ahead and replace the rear bearings? They don't make any noise. And..... Where is the best place to get em? TYIA Tony

I would check them .... I have over 53,000 mi on my 14 RT and the last time I checked they were all OK ...... good luck .... Mike

[RICZ]

If it turns out you need them or want to replace them for peace of mind, bearings are usually off-the-shelf items at bearing supply stores and/or industrial suppliers. All you need is the number on the edge of the race. No number? Take it to them and they will mic it for size.

[TONYO]

If it turns out you need them or want to replace them for peace of mind, bearings are usually off-the-shelf items at bearing supply stores and/or industrial suppliers. All you need is the number on the edge of the race. No number? Take it to them and they will mic it for size.

Thank You! What I really want to do is go ahead n buy everthing I would need to replace em b/4 I take the wheel off.SO If they are bad/worn I will have em in hand.

[TONYO]

Found these on amazon.......Says for up to 2013.Mine is a 14.Im thinkin they are the same? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...XCMVGECM&psc=1

[JayBros]

Thank You! What I really want to do is go ahead n buy everthing I would need to replace em b/4 I take the wheel off.SO If they are bad/worn I will have em in hand.

I believe that's wise. I had to replace my rear tire last year just before a 5K+ mile tour so I bought all the parts and took them with me when I had the dealership, 90 miles away, install the new tire I bought. I didn't want to run the risk of the dealership not having all the parts if I needed to replace bearings, They were good and didn't need replacement, but the parts will go with me again at future tire replacement(s) just in case.

[safecracker]

75,000 miles and still original rear bearings. I need to replace the rear tire soon. I will check them and replace if needed. Good luck.

[billybovine]

Don't forget to get the seals and orings too. It seems everytime I pull the pulley off the hub. The big oring is bad.

[KX5062]

Found these on amazon.......Says for up to 2013.Mine is a 14.Im thinkin they are the same? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...XCMVGECM&psc=1

I'd personally stay away from All Balls kits. They have a bad reputation of using cheap Chinese knock-off bearings. While admittedly I have used them in the past with mixed results on dirt bikes I don't think I'd trust them on something like a Spyder.

[jcthorne]

The OEM parts are not that far overpriced and are name brand bearings. You can order them from cheapcycleparts.com to your door.

[billybovine]

This is what I have as spares on hand. Note the first number in the description is the item number from the 2014 ST exploded parts view.

15 293200094 Seal $8.29 USD X 2
18 293350067 Ball Bearing $8.29 USD X2
19 293350065 Double Row Bearing. $25.99 USD
16 293300124 O-Ring $2.55 USD

I bought them in 2011 and only used the o-ring repeatably until about 6 weeks ago. They are the same for all models and years of Spyder. Older Spyders have 2 more o-rings that don't go bad. My neighbor one needed 1 bearing and seal. Then a week later I had a loose seal so I used the other one I had. It did not fit any better. The bore in the hub was too big. BRP replaced the rim under warranty.

[Gwolf]

The bearings and seals for mine are about $65 total cost. I will probably change them at around 50,000 miles whether they need it or not. I have run sealed wheel bearing much farther than that on other motorcycles. If you already got the wheel off, swapping out the bearings and seals is no big deal.

[Freddy]

The hubs are very susceptible to wear/damage in the bearing bore due to very soft material.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...+bearing+loose

One of mine was just slightly loose. Loctite 660 fixed it some years ago and all good since.

[CoolSpyder2014]

Does anyone have a complete set of orings and bearing for a 2014 RS rear wheel for sale or part numbers from a quality source? With brp systems hack dealers don't have much.

[Bfromla]

Does anyone have a complete set of orings and bearing for a 2014 RS rear wheel for sale or part numbers from a quality source? With brp systems hack dealers don't have much.

Some notes collected, sorry no parts source info:
Default rear bearings & seals-aftermarket
Driven pulley takes a 30BD40DF2 (double row) Also Known As: 30BG05S5G2DS or 5006-2RS 30x55x23mm.

Wheel takes 2 of 6205 2RS bearings. Seals are 37x55mm two needed but will need OEM as they're an odd size

Three O-rings 15IDx3mm needed and one 60IDx3mm

The O rings and seals are cheap so replace all. Allow a couple of hours, no need to rush. Circlip pliers needed and usual hand tools. The OEM pulley bearing doesn't seem to last terribly long - usually the first of the 3 to go and indicated by belt track moving and/or click/rattle (but this can be caused by other things too.)

and you'll need a tool of some specific sort to remove one axle bearing.

Helpful vid
https://youtu.be/juVK1ogc1BA

[UtahPete]

Some notes collected, sorry no parts source info:
Default rear bearings & seals-aftermarket
Driven pulley takes a 30BD40DF2 (double row) Also Known As: 30BG05S5G2DS or 5006-2RS 30x55x23mm.

Wheel takes 2 of 6205 2RS bearings. Seals are 37x55mm two needed but will need OEM as they're an odd size

Three O-rings 15IDx3mm needed and one 60IDx3mm

The O rings and seals are cheap so replace all. Allow a couple of hours, no need to rush. Circlip pliers needed and usual hand tools. The OEM pulley bearing doesn't seem to last terribly long - usually the first of the 3 to go and indicated by belt track moving and/or click/rattle (but this can be caused by other things too.)

and you'll need a tool of some specific sort to remove one axle bearing.

Helpful vid
https://youtu.be/juVK1ogc1BA

Something to add to my list of things to be aware of.