2014 RT trailer wiring harness 4 pin constant hot

[TravelingBajaCat]

I had a trailer wiring harness installed at the dealership. When first installed and tested with a test light, all pins on the 4 pin connector were cold (no power). Returned to dealership & now I have: with key on the pins are cold. With engine running all pins are hot. None blink when turn signals are activated. Dealership says that’s normal, it’s because I’m using a non OEM trailer. I say the connections need to be working at bike before I even connect the trailer. When I connect my 4 square to 4 flat all I get on the trailer is constant brake & running lights. HELP!!
This is my first post, so hope I’m in the right spot🤞

[canamjhb]

Your dealer is not normal.....! Four pin trailer wiring has been standardized forever. Green wire = right turn/brakes. Yellow wire = left turn/brakes. Brown wire = tail & running lights. White wire = ground. Check to see if the wire pigtail on your bike is functioning correctly. If it is, then look at the trailer wiring to see if someone has altered that. It is pretty basic and easy to correct. But the bike pigtail needs to be wired correctly to begin with and that is where I suspect the problem is. Good luck..... Jim

[TravelingBajaCat]

Thank you. I am testing the 4 pin square at the bike & that’s where they are constant hot. That’s why, when I do connect the trailer, I get constant brake & running lights.
BTW, I’m stuck in Prescott Valley while this is being figured out & driving back & forth to RideNow Powersports in Surprise.

[billybovine]

BRPs kit harness is plug and play and should be really hard for the dealer to screw up. Your first problem could have been as simple as the fuse for the trailer harness was missing. That has come up from time to time. Plug in a 10 amp fuse and it works. Now what has dealer done to it now. Running lights should only be on when the key is on. Right and left brake lights on only when the brakes are on. Does not matter if the key is on or not. Right and left hazard lights flash with key on or not. Turn signals only function with the key on.

So you say all pins are hot. Do you mean even the ground? Even with the key on or not?

[billybovine]

Another question.

The trailer fuse is 10 amp, F4 in the right fuse box. When you remove it. Does the trailer harness go dead? It should kill all power to the harness.

[TravelingBajaCat]

I put the clip of the test light on the ground pin & with engine running have solid light on other three pins. ONLY when engine is running, otherwise pins are completely dead. Lights on the Spyder function as you stated they should
I suspect that when I went back because of no power to 4 pin they did replace the fuse. They told me all fuses were good. I also wonder what they could’ve done!!

[TravelingBajaCat]

Pulled the fuse & with engine running the wiring harness 4 pin connector is still hot.

[canamjhb]

Ride Now has somehow incorrectly wired your trailer pigtail. I would leave your trailer home. Just take the bike and have them correct their error. And, I would have them demonstrate that each terminal of your pigtail functions as it should. Don't let them try to tell you that it is "normal" because it is NOT. Best of luck to you. From my experience dealing with Ride Now, you will need all the luck you can get..... Jim

As Billy mentioned, the bike pigtail is a plug and play. I'll bet some "mechanic" tried to get creative with your bike pigtail installation. I'd INSIST on seeing the way it was installed. There should be NO wire splicing or any thing like that. Look on the internet at trailer wire for CanAm 2014 RT and you will be able to see how it should be done.....

[billybovine]

The only power getting to the trailer harness pigtail should be coming through fuse F4. That is to protect the Spyder systems if something goes wrong with the trailer.
So there are only 2 reasons I can think of for the symtoms you describe. The module is bad or the mechanic has messed with the wiring and screwed it up. Not to hard to check for a bad module. At the connector between the Y-harness and the module. It is a 6 pin connector. There should be a ground, 12V always hot from fuse F4, left turn signal, right turn signal, brake light and running lights. Sorry I don't have the wire colors. If it is correct there. The wiring beyond that point or module made be bad.

[uralski]

There is a converter that has to change brake lights to the turn signal bulbs on the trailer. that might have shorted out somehow.

[TravelingBajaCat]

Doesn’t explain the constant hot pins on bike. No turn signals, on/off brake or hazards.

[Peter Aawen]

Doesn’t explain the constant hot pins on bike. No turn signals, on/off brake or hazards.

Yeah, that's gotta have been all down to a 'talented' tech!

[canamjhb]

The BRP wiring harness for the trailer is a Y configuration. The two arms of the Y have electrical connections that plug in line to your tail lights at the connection under your seat. Lift the seat and removal of the cover panel access the tail light plug. The bottom leg of the Y is your trailer pigtail. My money is that an inexperienced person cut the connectors off the arms of the Y and cobbed the wires directly and incorrectly into your tail light wires. As you know, your tail lights are on all the time and wiring the brown, yellow and green wires directly to your tail light wires would create the condition you are experiencing. I sure would be interested to know other scenarios that would cause this. Please keep us posted and let us know how this is resolved..... Jim

[TravelingBajaCat]

They now tell me I need another part (219400893). Already have #’s: 710003903, 710005823 & 710003272 installed. When I look up the number, it appears to be the “Y” harness. If that’s the case, I have no idea how they could’ve called the job complete the two times I was here.
Although they will not admit it, the last time it was worked on, “someone” hot wired the harness, therefore hot when engine is on. I am so pissed at these people. Instead of researching parts when I told them there was a problem, they chose to place blame on my trailer.��������

[canamjhb]

The experience you are having with RideNow is typical of the experience I had with them (see post # 8). If you decide to throw in the towel and DIY, It is not a hard install. If you look up "Trailer wire harness for Can Am 2014 RT" you will find videos showing installation. I would sure check the parts list of what you already paid for, and make sure you are not double paying for parts and/or installation if you go with RideNow. At least now you know where the problem is. Again, Good luck..... Jim

[TravelingBajaCat]

They now tell me I need another part (219400893). Already have #’s: 710003903, 710005823 & 710003272 installed. When I look up the number, it appears to be the “Y” harness. If that’s the case, I have no idea how they could’ve called the job complete the two times I was here.
Although they will not admit it, the last time it was worked on, “someone” hot wired the harness, therefore hot when engine is on. I am so pissed at these people. Instead of researching parts when I told them there was a problem, they chose to place blame on my trailer.��������

[TravelingBajaCat]

Finally fixed on the third try. All I have to fix is the turn signals are reversed. I told the dealership they had screwed up enough & “Do NOT touch my trailer!”
Thanks to everyone for your guidance��

[canamjhb]

Thank you for posting your results. Doing that helps increase the knowledge of all of us. Good luck down the road. Stay safe and ride safe..... Jim

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

They now tell me I need another part (219400893). Already have #’s: 710003903, 710005823 & 710003272 installed. When I look up the number, it appears to be the “Y” harness. If that’s the case, I have no idea how they could’ve called the job complete the two times I was here.
Although they will not admit it, the last time it was worked on, “someone” hot wired the harness, therefore hot when engine is on. I am so pissed at these people. Instead of researching parts when I told them there was a problem, they chose to place blame on my trailer.��������

IMO, they have jacked you around royally. You do need the 893 piece. That's the Y connector for 2010-2017 RTs. The 3903 is the control module which you need. The 3272 is the pigtail from the module to the hitch. It is a 4 square so you need to modify it, replace it, or add an adapter, to go to the 4 flat on your trailer. The 5823 is the Y harness for 2018+ RT and for the F3 Spyders. They should not have used it. Make them give you the 893 piece in replacement at no charge.

To learn more about the various parts check out these threads.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...64-Y-Connector

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...railer+harness

Like others have said, this should have all been plug and play and next to impossible to screw up other than the change from the square 4 that BRP uses to the flat 4 on your trailer. But on the other hand I guess we should cut them a little bit of slack. BRP has made several changes to the trailer wiring system through the years so unless the techs have kept up with them they could get confused.