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Very Active Member
Is there a "not less than" for RPMs on the SE6?
I am new to the SE6, coming from a 2010 SM5. With the 998 there was caution not to 'lug' the engine with RPMs too low. On my new 2019 RT I shifted the SE6 about 3500 during this break-in period. Is it possible to have the RPMs too low for any of the gears? Trying to understand how this SE6 works.
Jim
Ryde, eat, sleep.... repeat
2019 Spyder RT Limited Pearl White/Dark
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Variously called Stormtrooper, Pearl, and Goober by wife and various (friends?)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BigGuy66
I am new to the SE6, coming from a 2010 SM5. With the 998 there was caution not to 'lug' the engine with RPMs too low. On my new 2019 RT I shifted the SE6 about 3500 during this break-in period. Is it possible to have the RPMs too low for any of the gears? Trying to understand how this SE6 works.
Jim
Well the SE trans can't stall because of low RPM's ..... it will just downshift .... and the SE won't let you up-shift unless the engine has reached the level of rpm's that allow it it to do so safely ...... the 1330 engine was designed with low rpm's / high torque as it's power production ..... Mike
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I am also rather new to the SE6, but it's the only Spyder we have had, so have no comparison.
Based on engine sound, it doesn't like to be under 2k. Just riding through town, staying with or slightly ahead of traffic, shifting at 3.5k seems to work. Overall, we tend to keep it over 3k, there's no need to keep it wound up like the V-twins.
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HER ride:
2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White
My rides:
2000 Honda GL1500SE
1980 Suzuki GS850G
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
The clutch on the SE6's works on oil pressure, unlike the SE5's where the centrifugal clutch works on revs; so as long as your SE6's engine is running & you've actually got a gear selected, the clutch will be happily doing its thing!
That said, the gearbox itself is still a manual gearbox, just with a snazzy clutch and super-fast electronically controlled gear changes, so you aren't really being all that kind to the engine/drive-line by letting it do all the down-shifting - that 'automated down-shift' is simply the other side of the computer not letting you up-shift too early - it's a 'fail-safe' to stop things being damaged by 'poor driving practices', like forgetting to change down when you really should &/or trying to change up too early... either can result in putting too much torque thru the higher gears, and that might just cause some fairly expensive damage!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Very Active Member
The SE6 transmission automatically downshifts if the engine drops to 1,900 RPM or thereabouts. Take the Spyder out and run it up to 6th gear and let go of the throttle and watch it automatically downshift all the way down to first.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
(snip) the gearbox itself is still a manual gearbox, just with a snazzy clutch and super-fast electronically controlled gear changes, so you aren't really being all that kind to the engine/drive-line by letting it do all the down-shifting (snip)
So - I should do the downshifting and not let the byke automatically downshift? I think that's what you are saying... I don't want to grind up any gears!!
Jim
Ryde, eat, sleep.... repeat
2019 Spyder RT Limited Pearl White/Dark
LaMonster drink holder with X-Grip
LaMonster Belt Dampener
Lamonster USB cable with extension
Variously called Stormtrooper, Pearl, and Goober by wife and various (friends?)
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Active Member
Mine seems comfortable shifting up 3500-4000.
If I want engine braking to help more on a downslope I’ll downshift about 2500-2800.
MWO (Ret'd) SJ Barnes
‘20 RTL Stone Grey
named Britannia in honour of EE Doc Smith’s
Grey Lensman’s ship.
Farkles:
Bestem Carplay
canamsypderaccessories hitch and wiring harness,
showchrome trunk rack,
12v AND dual USB direct to battery in the frunk,
dual USB switched in the blank console switch spot (parasites the power off the seat heater switch),
frunk lid organizer,
trunk organizer,
showchrome rider backrest,
ryder and passenger cup holders,
ram mount for the iPad mini I use for GPS
quadlock phone mount
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BigGuy66
So - I should do the downshifting and not let the byke automatically downshift? I think that's what you are saying... I don't want to grind up any gears!!
Jim
I let my machine downshift by itself 98% of the time. The only time I manually shift down is when I want extra power to pass etc.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Very Active Member
The Spyder isn't going to care whether you shift or it shifts. I have not heard of a single case hereon where an SE6 transmission has crapped out because the rider did all the downshifting.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Active Member
I usually downshift myself down to 2nd gear and let it go into 1st when it wants to. Letting it downshift itself seems to have a rougher feel to it. Besides, I guess I am a control freak. I want the gear when I want the gear. (driving sports cars too long)
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Very Active Member
Downshift if you want to turn and burn - Torque bump abive 4500 RPM
Most of the time I cruise and shift with the RPMs above 3000, but when you pull out to pass a semi at 60-65 its nice to drop a gear and get the extra 10 to 15 percent torque peak.
1330 torque curve.jpg
But its worth noting you still have 80 lb feet of torque at 2000 RPM for cruising; when slowing down the autoshift is around 1700 RPM except to first at 1400 RPM.
07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
03 Harley Sportster, 07 RK moved on
11 RT- 76,000 mi, 15 RT-S- 44,000 mi, traded for current 15 base RT and 16 F3T
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Very Active Member
If you want to see the design philosophy, simply engage ECO mode and you'll see where the shifting is supposed to occur for maximum fuel economy. For normal driving, around 3000 seems to be a happy middle point. For fun, there's a reason you can hold each gear up to redline!!!!
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Very Active Member
You can't lug the engine on the SE6. If you get below about 2,000 RPMs the clutch disengages after it has shifted back down to first. Without bringing the RPMs up, you have no power to the drive wheel.
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