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  1. #26
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I have let mine run to the once a year mark because I was driving fewer than 9,500 per year. Now that I am going to surpass 9,500 per year, I will probably change out somewhere around 6500-7500 miles. It all depends when I want to make a special trip to Nixa MO or Pearcy AR.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  2. #27
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    that was pretty slick
    YA,50 times over!!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  3. #28
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SportsterDoc View Post
    Very good excuse for a longer ride!
    When I had my Sportsters, it was only 7 miles to my shop.
    In SoCal winters, oil barely got to 155 F in the mornings...so I left earlier and took longer ways to work.
    I spoke with the analyst who did that sample and he said it was kind of common in motorcycles during winter months.
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  4. #29
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Tire and oil, you can always stir up the nest!! Good Job Billy!!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  5. #30
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    Tire and oil, you can always stir up the nest!! Good Job Billy!!!
    Thanks!!!!

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  6. #31
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Thanks!!!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    So, does this mean that the 1330 is fine with 20 weight oil? If so, why not spec. a 20 weight oil to start with? And why continue to recommend a 4,500 mile service interval for the 998 V-Twin if running at 20 weight is a good idea?
    Without consulting with the engineers, we can only conclude that it is fine with 20w oil.

    If you specified a 20w to begin with, what guarantees do you have that it won't shear down to 10w or less?
    THAT is why something heavier than 20w is specified. I would have to guess that somebody did some testing and found that 20w was adequate for the engine. Some further testing found that 40w sheared down to 20w after a few thousand miles, so they said, "Let's insist on 40w oil, but make it 5w-40 so it flows well when cool, too."

    As to why the 998 has a shorter interval, sorry, I don't have a clue.

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  8. #33
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    So speaking of oil, will this work in the Spyder's ok?

    https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Lub-Mot...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

  9. #34
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    2012 RTL , Pearl

  10. #35
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by troop View Post
    I'd really like to see an oil analysis of Amsoil/M1 10w40 or Castrol 10w50 after a BRP stated 9000 mile run time. Has anybody ran their oil for 9k miles?
    I do when I ride more than 9000 in a year. Do to medical crap I didn't get 9000 last year so I changed oil and filter in the spring. I also run my Tacoma to the recommended 10,000 miles between changes unless I have been doing off road or
    other severe duty. All of my vehicles get fluids and filters changed at the factory recommended time or mileage.
    2015 RT , Black

  11. #36
    Active Member ChicagoSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JP58 View Post
    The guy is saying not good to go up in viscosity on cold number. BRP recommends 5w40. Many here are using 10w40. So are we ruining our engines?
    No.

    Quote Originally Posted by Navydad View Post
    When was the last time anyone here had an oil related engine failure on anything they own?
    Winner, winner, chicken dinner
    2018 F3 Limited , Black/Chrome

  12. #37
    Very Active Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Failure would be running an oil burner and not checking the oil level.

    Longevity/durability is the question. Which is why I prefer to change oil on an 8000 RPM engine sooner than BRP recommends.
    23 Moto Guzzi V7-850 SE 23 Yamaha XT250 18 Yamaha Bolt R-Spec 22 Triumph Street Twin 20 CanAM Ryker 900 14 Honda CB1100 18 Yamaha XT250 16 Moto Guzzi V7 II 17 Yamaha TW200 12 Triumph Bonneville 02 Sportster 1200 Sport 03 Sportster 883 76 Honda CB750F 75 Honda CB360 70 Yamaha CT1 72 Yamaha CT2 72 Yamaha AT2/CT2 70 Honda SL350 70 Honda CL350 67 Honda CL160 67 Honda CB160 62 Honda CA110
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  13. #38
    Active Member RudyB's Avatar
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    I use 20/50 Amsoil V Twin racing oil 2014 RTS 1330cc 53000 miles works great no issues

  14. #39
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by acdcking12 View Post
    So speaking of oil, will this work in the Spyder's ok?

    https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Lub-Mot...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
    I would be leery of it because its not synthetic or even semi-syn, and a little known brand. For few bucks more, go with known synthetic brand. If you really want to try it, send off a sample after 2K miles and see how it tests out. Blackstone or ALS labs are good.
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  15. #40
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by acdcking12 View Post
    So speaking of oil, will this work in the Spyder's ok?

    https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Lub-Mot...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
    Would it work? I'm sure it would. It is JASO MA/MA2 rated. As above, being a mineral oil, I sure wouldn't run it more than a couple/few thousand miles. BRP recommends semi/syn blend oils, and I have to believe a lot of that has to do with their recommended oil change intervals. No way would a mineral based oil be good for that amount of miles. Heck, if being frugal, spend $20 from Walmart and get a jug of Shell Rotella T6 15w40. It is synthetic, and also JASO MA rated.
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rot...llon/869812640


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  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by troop View Post
    Heck, if being frugal, spend $20 from Walmart and get a jug of Shell Rotella T6 15w40. It is synthetic, and also JASO MA rated.
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rot...llon/869812640
    Actually, if you are being "frugal", get the Rotella T4, which is 15w-40 mineral oil. The Rotella T6 is the synthetic and is available in a 5w-40 as well as the 15w-40 that was linked.
    Cost for the T4 is about $12-13, cost for the T6 is about $20-22.

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  17. #42
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve W. View Post
    Actually, if you are being "frugal", get the Rotella T4, which is 15w-40 mineral oil. The Rotella T6 is the synthetic and is available in a 5w-40 as well as the 15w-40 that was linked.
    Cost for the T4 is about $12-13, cost for the T6 is about $20-22.

    .
    Yes, their are cheaper oils. My point being that Can-Am recommends, at minimum, synthetic blend or partial synthetic oils. I certainly wouldn't run T4 to a 9k mile oil change either.. The T6 is a full synthetic oil, and averages out to $5.25/qt when bought by the gallon jug. Not what I use, but a decent cost alternative..


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  18. #43
    Active Member boz329's Avatar
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    I go with Olive Oil... worked for Popeye

  19. #44
    Very Active Member Big F's Avatar
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    good question on ruining the engine??????? AND using other oils - what happens if the engine seizes up or whatever and it is still under warranty and BRP finds out you did not use the recommended 5W40???????
    I just had my Spyder serviced yesterday at my reputable/knowledgeable dealer (Olsen's Outdoor Power in Atlantic, IA) AND they always use 5W40 kit from BRP..
    BIG F

  20. #45
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    That, I believe gets down to how deep one's pockets are. If one can prove they were using oil of the correct API service code and the weight of the oil was appropriate to the atmospheric conditions the owner could still win but only the lawyers make money.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
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  21. #46
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    "Can-Am recommends, at minimum, synthetic blend or partial synthetic oils." Why? What's a blend or partial synthetic? Is it like being partially pregnant? It seems like if it is synthetic oil, then it is synthetic. If it is a blend then it is not synthetic and you don't benefit from using a synthetic oil. If using conventional oil is bad, then why recommend a mix of bad oil with good oil? By the way just how much is the blend? 50/50? Seems to me it's either synthetic or it's not.

  22. #47
    Active Member trong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogs View Post
    "Can-Am recommends, at minimum, synthetic blend or partial synthetic oils." Why? What's a blend or partial synthetic? Is it like being partially pregnant? It seems like if it is synthetic oil, then it is synthetic. If it is a blend then it is not synthetic and you don't benefit from using a synthetic oil. If using conventional oil is bad, then why recommend a mix of bad oil with good oil? By the way just how much is the blend? 50/50? Seems to me it's either synthetic or it's not.
    I'd been researching about motor oil in general and found that "synthetic blend" oils contain about 10% of genuine synthetic oil and the rest is dino oil. An no manufacturers ever specify the amount of synthetic that I've seen. Technically, it is a marketing scheme since that much synthetic would not benefit engines at all, I think. I go with full synthetic oil on all my vehicles, sometimes I use that on my lawn mower and snow blower because I'm too lazy to go get dino oil just for those.
    Cheers.
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  23. #48
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Oil can be "rated" or "approved" as Jaso ma2. Might make a diff in a warranty squabble.
    Two Wheelers from 1963-2011

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  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by trong View Post
    I'd been researching about motor oil in general and found that "synthetic blend" oils contain about 10% of genuine synthetic oil and the rest is dino oil. An no manufacturers ever specify the amount of synthetic that I've seen. Technically, it is a marketing scheme since that much synthetic would not benefit engines at all, I think. I go with full synthetic oil on all my vehicles, sometimes I use that on my lawn mower and snow blower because I'm too lazy to go get dino oil just for those.
    Cheers.
    Ahhh yes, I've done and do the same as you. Get this. The 6 speed manual transmission and transfer case in my F-350 all use ATF oil. Now tell me again about the shear factor. I change the oil in my spyder at 9k mile intervals. I've done several oil analyses over the 9k mile duration and the 10W40 Amsoil I use shears down to a viscosity of approx. 20W, with in about 2k miles and then remains there. So, for the next 7k miles I figure I'm running -10W20? LOL Remember this. All oil is Dino oil and is sold by the producer by the tanker load, to the highest bidder. That buyer then brands the oil adds their secrete formula of additives (making it synthetic) and then sells it to you and me. Synthetic oil is simply a more highly refined Dino oil. So then, if you contaminate synthetic oil by mixing it with regular oil shouldn't be called unsynthetic oil? LOL I'm bad.

  25. #50
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogs View Post
    ...... So then, if you contaminate synthetic oil by mixing it with regular oil shouldn't be called unsynthetic oil? LOL I'm bad.
    Yup!
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

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