I hate Squealing Brakes - any suggestions to stop them squealing?

[pegasus1300]

" I've not seen an aftermarket kit come with the retaining clips" EBC pads do come with the the clips and have done for about 2 years. If you got some without the clips call EBC and they will send you some.

[troop]

" I've not seen an aftermarket kit come with the retaining clips" EBC pads do come with the the clips and have done for about 2 years. If you got some without the clips call EBC and they will send you some.

I "think" Bajaron has them now for the EBC's

[troop]

So, I can't remember the last time I replaced brake pads that had the anti rattle shims in them. Would you use the caliper grease/disc quiet lube on both sides of the shims, on all metal/metal surfaces, or just between the shims and pucks?

[troop]

Did you go through a new brake pad break in procedure, or resume normal riding? If no break in runs were done, do it.

EBS's motorcycle pad break in procedure will likely only happen in a perfect world. 300 miles of gentle/gradual braking, followed by multiple hard stops and cool downs. Best advice is to just ride/brake normally and hope no critters run in front of you or vehicles turn left in front of you.

[BajaRon]

So, I can't remember the last time I replaced brake pads that had the anti rattle shims in them. Would you use the caliper grease/disc quiet lube on both sides of the shims, on all metal/metal surfaces, or just between the shims and pucks?

There are different schools of though on this. Conventional wisdom says if you use the shim, do not use a product like CRC. If you're going to use CRC (or similar) don't use the shim. I am not sure there is enough room for the shim and CRC. But if you were going to use the shim, I would put CRC on both sides as well as on the pad backing plate. You want to apply CRC fairly thick because of how it works. CRC is designed to absorb vibration to keep the pad from vibrating at all. The more volume of CRC you apply, the more vibration it is able to absorb.

Shims are designed to isolate the vibrating pad from the caliper so it does not resonate through hard parts. Both have advantages and disadvantages. Shims are adequate in most cases. But overall, CRC type products seem to work better in more severe situations.

EBS's motorcycle pad break in procedure will likely only happen in a perfect world. 300 miles of gentle/gradual braking, followed by multiple hard stops and cool downs. Best advice is to just ride/brake normally and hope no critters run in front of you or vehicles turn left in front of you.

I agree that the currently recommended bedding in process recommended by EBC is not realistic, nor is it the best method. EBC used to recommend the hard stop process be done after install because they were speaking to track racers who needed ultimate braking right away. But as more and more street riders started using these pads, they changed their tune, for some reason.

You can use either method, of course. Or no method at all. But I still think the hard braking right away is the best approach.

[trong]

I bought a 2013 RTL a few months back and I do not like the squealing brake at all. Shortly after I bought it I removed the rear caliper and sprayed Napa Disc Brake Quiet between the pads and their shims. That did not help at all.
Last year I had the same problem with my 2013 Honda CB1100 on the rear brakes. I remove the brake pads, made by Nissin, to find out that they use a thin piece of fiber glass and plastics material. I sprayed the Napa stuff on both sides of the plastics and the pads and the shims, pit back together and never hear the squealing again.
Today I remove the rear caliper on the RTL and use old plastics gift cards, cut to fit, to sandwich between the shims and the pads, with Napa sprayed on all contact surfaces, I had to back the piston in just a little. I also used a file to chamfer the brake material on leading and trailing edges on the pads. Put everything back together and go for a short ride, amazingly the squealing is eliminated by about 90%.
I am not sure how long the plastic pieces will last due to the heat on the pads, guess I will find out sooner or later. BTW, no lab animals were harmed during this experiment.
Cheers!

[troop]

About a month ago I removed all my pads for inspection. With about 7.8K miles on the odo, all pads were in great shape. I lightly sanded the pads to remove any glazing. I popped off the front rotors and gave them a good cleaning (did the rear as good as I could on the bike). I applied a thin layer of Brake Quiet to both sides of the OEM brake pad shims, cleaned the caliper and reassembled. About 300 miles later, my rear brake is slightly chirping again, but it goes away when fully warmed up. Oh well ....

[BajaRon]

About a month ago I removed all my pads for inspection. With about 7.8K miles on the odo, all pads were in great shape. I lightly sanded the pads to remove any glazing. I popped off the front rotors and gave them a good cleaning (did the rear as good as I could on the bike). I applied a thin layer of Brake Quiet to both sides of the OEM brake pad shims, cleaned the caliper and reassembled. About 300 miles later, my rear brake is slightly chirping again, but it goes away when fully warmed up. Oh well ....

You want to put the Brake Quiet on as thick as you can. It is a gel that sets up and is designed to absorb the high frequency vibrations that causes the squeal. The more volume (thicker) you put on, the more vibration it is able to absorb.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eab_...tephenMcElvain

[Mikey]

I think where some people make the mistake is they don't let it set up before reassembly!!

[BajaRon]

I think where some people make the mistake is they don't let it set up before reassembly!!

Probably true. It makes a mess if you try to install the pads before giving it time to gel. It never sets up hard. But it will get to where it won't run when turned vertical.

[troop]

Ahhh... next time. Would you remove the shims when using disc quiet/grease ?

[scubadown]

I know, another squealing brake thread. So, I have a 2013 ST-L with the Brembo brakes and 12,000 miles. I changed the OEM pads to EDC a couple of weeks ago, not so much as they were too worn, but I had read of better stopping power. Since I have switched, I can't stop the squealing. Took it back apart and cleaned everything real well, use caliper guide grease and put it back together, Still squeals.

I can think of three possible attempts to fix this:

1) Replace the EDC and go back to OEM pads.

2) Disassemble again and put the brake grease both on the back of the brake pad and on the back of the anti-squeal shim (only did back of the brake pad last time). I don't think this will fix it but who knows?

3) Get rid of the anti-squeal shims and use CRC Disk Brake Quiet on back of the brake pads. It says on the directions not to use with shims.

Any suggestions? I hate squealing brakes. It only does it when slowly stopping like parking lots, driveways and stop lights.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I know, another squealing brake thread. So, I have a 2013 ST-L with the Brembo brakes and 12,000 miles. I changed the OEM pads to EDC a couple of weeks ago, not so much as they were too worn, but I had read of better stopping power. Since I have switched, I can't stop the squealing. Took it back apart and cleaned everything real well, use caliper guide grease and put it back together, Still squeals.

I can think of three possible attempts to fix this:

1) Replace the EDC and go back to OEM pads.

2) Disassemble again and put the brake grease both on the back of the brake pad and on the back of the anti-squeal shim (only did back of the brake pad last time). I don't think this will fix it but who knows?

3) Get rid of the anti-squeal shims and use CRC Disk Brake Quiet on back of the brake pads. It says on the directions not to use with shims.

Any suggestions? I hate squealing brakes. It only does it when slowly stopping like parking lots, driveways and stop lights.

"brake GREASE" ..... that's NOT used on the back of the Pads .... I use CRC brand "Brake Quiet" with the EBC pads and don't have any Squeal .... good luck ... Mike

[scubadown]

caliper grease.JPG

[BajaRon]

Ahhh... next time. Would you remove the shims when using disc quiet/grease ?

Brake Quiet and brake grease are 2 different products. Brake Quiet Gel is applied to the back of the brake pads to eliminate squeal. Brake grease is applied to the moving parts of the caliper assembly to guarantee they move smoothly. Otherwise, the caliper can get jammed up and then you get uneven stopping and uneven pad wear. We use a very thin coat of anti-seize for this. But there are many options out there.

Brake Quiet kinds of products are designed to do the same thing as the shim. Usually, the shim is enough. But the Quiet Gel works better than a shim. If the shim isn't enough, then remove it if you are using the Brake Quiet Gel. But don't throw them away. It doesn't hurt to keep them around.

[IGETAROUND]

Starting to get some squealing on a couple of my brakes now. Thinking if I'm going to pop off the pads to clean/lube everything up, I might consider replacing the pads to some EBC HH. I've had good luck with these on past bikes. With only about 7.5k on the pads, they still have lots of life, but wondering how the EBC's work on the F3 ? Lack of braking hasn't been a concern. Thx for any knowledgeable F3 EBC input. ** And maybe the Bajaron piston tool **

Troop, the EBC pads work awesome on the F-3, And Ron's caliper reduction tool for the rear caliper makes changing pads ever so much easier.

Al in Kazoo

[scubadown]

Brake Quiet and brake grease are 2 different products. Brake Quiet Gel is applied to the back of the brake pads to eliminate squeal. Brake grease is applied to the moving parts of the caliper assembly to guarantee they move smoothly. Otherwise, the caliper can get jammed up and then you get uneven stopping and uneven pad wear. We use a very thin coat of anti-seize for this. But there are many options out there.

Brake Quiet kinds of products are designed to do the same thing as the shim. Usually, the shim is enough. But the Quiet Gel works better than a shim. If the shim isn't enough, then remove it if you are using the Brake Quiet Gel. But don't throw them away. It doesn't hurt to keep them around.

Thanks Ron, that's what I am going to try.

[ransman]

This is what I used and it worked for me. Permatex ceramic brake lubricant.

image.jpg

[Peter Aawen]

This is what I used and it worked for me. Permatex ceramic brake lubricant.

image.jpg

Yeah, that stuff's not strictly an 'anti-squeal' product, altho by reducing the friction between the pads, shims, & the pistons, it might have some squeal reduction capability?!?

[BajaRon]

This is what I used and it worked for me. Permatex ceramic brake lubricant.

image.jpg

Interesting. No one knows it all and we are always learning. It's easy to get stagnant having found a product that has worked for you in the past. I was not aware of a 'Grease' that was also used as a quieting product.

Having done some research this morning. It appears it may be a better option than the CRC Disk Quiet gel. As a side note, I don't like the spray version of CRC Disk Quiet. So, I am not surprised to find a customer not thrilled with it. The spray version tends to go on too thin, and thickness of the final application is very important. I was not able to find a comparison between the gel version and this Permatex product. But I'm still interested enough to give it a try.

Thank you for the information. If there is anyone else out there who has used this product on the Spyder, let me know what you think.

I never want to get to the point where I don't think I can do any better.

[Peacekeeper6]

Interesting. No one knows it all and we are always learning. It's easy to get stagnant having found a product that has worked for you in the past. I was not aware of a 'Grease' that was also used as a quieting product.

Having done some research this morning. It appears it may be a better option than the CRC Disk Quiet gel. As a side note, I don't like the spray version of CRC Disk Quiet. So, I am not surprised to find a customer not thrilled with it. The spray version tends to go on too thin, and thickness of the final application is very important. I was not able to find a comparison between the gel version and this Permatex product. But I'm still interested enough to give it a try.

Thank you for the information. If there is anyone else out there who has used this product on the Spyder, let me know what you think.

I never want to get to the point where I don't think I can do any better.

I've never heard of this Permatex product either, so I decided to give it a try on my g/f's son's Mazda CX-5 when we replaced the front pads and rotors.

I greased the caliper slide pins and applied a layer on the back of the pads. So far, no squealing, so ....

[FrogmanDave]

Brake grease works just fine as an anti squeal. Any thick grease will. I personally use the CRC Brake and Caliper grease. Been using it for years.

[Gwolf]

If it is not a brake pad or stuck cylinder problem, sometimes a little scribbling on the disk with a soft lumber pencil will stop it, until the next time you get caught in a flood.