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Active Member
Stripped Body Panel Screw
I have one of the four Left Side Panel screws apparently stripped. It's spinning freely with the Torx 25 driver but not coming away from the body. This is the second screw from the front (just behind the left fender). I don't want to start drilling it out or just having the dealer replace it. Looks like easy access to get behind the "nut" body behind the side panel with a vice grip for instance. Suggestions on how to remove this screw? Thanks.
2019 Can Am F3 Limited
Spyder Upgrades/mods:
F4 Windscreen,
Ultimate seat and Driver's backrest,
Lamonster Fog lights,
Lamonster Brake Rod kit,
CanAm Short Reach Handlebar
Other Current Bike: 2009 Honda Shadow 750 Aero
Past Bikes:
2018 BMW C650CT
2013 BMW C650GT
2011 Honda SH150i
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Very Active Member
If you can get something under the head of the screw, like a dental pick, pry with that while turning the screw. Apply no pressure with the torx driver.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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i toke a vise grip grabed the treads and tork it off
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by scorpion56
I have one of the four Left Side Panel screws apparently stripped. It's spinning freely with the Torx 25 driver but not coming away from the body. This is the second screw from the front (just behind the left fender). I don't want to start drilling it out or just having the dealer replace it. Looks like easy access to get behind the "nut" body behind the side panel with a vice grip for instance. Suggestions on how to remove this screw? Thanks.
If it ( they ) are the TWO chrome head bolts ... that are just above your footboards and look like they have security pins in them ..... then don't remove .... they are fake ..... many here have learned this the hard way ..... Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-23-2020 at 07:01 PM.
Reason: Removed extra 'return' in don' * t...
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Active Member
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Active Member
Originally Posted by RICZ
If you can get something under the head of the screw, like a dental pick, pry with that while turning the screw. Apply no pressure with the torx driver.
I thought of doing that. I was able to slip an exacto knife in there, but no progress. So, in the end, I made believe I was my dentist and said "when in doubt, drill it out." And that's what I did. At some point I will install a replacement Rivnut. Thanks.
2019 Can Am F3 Limited
Spyder Upgrades/mods:
F4 Windscreen,
Ultimate seat and Driver's backrest,
Lamonster Fog lights,
Lamonster Brake Rod kit,
CanAm Short Reach Handlebar
Other Current Bike: 2009 Honda Shadow 750 Aero
Past Bikes:
2018 BMW C650CT
2013 BMW C650GT
2011 Honda SH150i
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Very Active Member
this is the perfect reason to have some JB WELD or an apoxy glue handy....
i've had this happen twice... like the other guys are saying, get behind it with pliers and hold the 'nut' part, remove the screw, the apoxy the nut in place... i've never had one fail after doing this.... good luck...
Dan
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Very Active Member
Kinda wished those panels were secured by 1/4-turn Dzus fasteners similar to what they use in aircraft:
dzus_self-ejecting_2_1.jpg
SIGNATURE PIC CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION
2016 Toyota Sienna SE - hers
2002 BMW 325i - his
1994 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 Sportside Z71 - whoevers vehicle is in the shop
2009 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 Low (Vivid Black) - his
2018 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited - hers
2007 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 Low (Pearl White) - hers (SOLD 02/29/20)
2011 Tao Tao 50 - whoevers bike is in the shop
2007 Reinell 186 FNS - the dog's
1995 Fleetwood Flair 27R - EVERYBODY'S !
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
I like TP’s idea. I use a furniture t nut. Pm me an address, I can send you one. You re use the bolt and washer. Joe
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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