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  1. #1
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    Default 28k miles service

    I have a 2015 RTL with 27k miles. According to the manual there is a 28k miles service. The dealer quoted $2k to do the full service and $1k to do the HCM oil filter, canister pre filter, fuel filter, air filter and coolant. He said the front clip will have to be removed to do the coolant. His quote
    "Gone are the days of removing an 8mm hex head and draining the coolant at at the water pump, there is nothing easy on these spyders." And don't suggest I do it myself; too old to do that kind of work now.
    What have you guys done and how much do you think is necessary?
    Thanks for your input.

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    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    I did the engine oil and filter, the HCM filter, and the air filter. My coolant tested fine so it didn't get replaced. I didn't do the fuel filter, but probably will this winter when I do a brake fluid flush. I have the luxury of still being able to do my own work. My 2015 has 33,000 miles on it and runs like a champ. Parts through a dealership are not cheap and labor isn't either. $2K sounds excessive, but I can see it.
    2015 RT , Black

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    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbaucum View Post
    And don't suggest I do it myself; too old to do that kind of work now.
    What have you guys done and how much do you think is necessary?
    I'm 84 and do not trust other guys with tools and my things, so I do my own maintenance. The HCM filter is so easy, even my 10 year old great grandson can do it. I'm teaching him mechanics and he removed the cat and installed the delete. RTs are more time consuming due to the acres of Tupperware that needs to be removed, but those filter changes are not brain surgery - at least to me.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  4. #4
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    All you do is remove the lower radiator hose to drain it.

    The more time consuming is the HCM and Gas filter.

    Pre canister is behind the left saddlebag mounted on the frame. Most likely will not need replacing but could be checked. Mine looked like new when I replaced mine.

    Air filter is on the left side and more plastic to remove.

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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Trikermutha is correct about draining the cooling system; you just remove the lower right radiator hose. The frunk does not need to be removed.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
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    I just did my 2015 RT 28,000 mile maintenance also. Removing and replacing the necessary Tupperware is the biggest part of the job.

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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Yeah, it's a PITA to have to remove the left top side and rear panels just to get to the emissions pre-filter; takes longer to remove and reinstall the Tupperware than to change the filter.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
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    Hello TrikerMutha,
    I'm at the dread 28k point with my 2014 RT and am determined to do my own maintenance for this milestone. First question is "what in the world is a pre-canister?" Is it some sort of filter? Or one of those gas tank fume traps? When I get to it, how do I know whether it needs to be replaced? What am I looking for?
    Regards, Patrick H.

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    Active Member P.W.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatrickH View Post
    Hello TrikerMutha,
    I'm at the dread 28k point with my 2014 RT and am determined to do my own maintenance for this milestone. First question is "what in the world is a pre-canister?" Is it some sort of filter? Or one of those gas tank fume traps? When I get to it, how do I know whether it needs to be replaced? What am I looking for?
    Regards, Patrick H.
    I'm interested in this answer as well.

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    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Don't think I've ever changed a gas filter on any vehicle. Doubtful I will ever reach 28K, but it would get the oil/filter, air filter, and call it a day.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatrickH View Post
    Hello TrikerMutha,
    I'm at the dread 28k point with my 2014 RT and am determined to do my own maintenance for this milestone. First question is "what in the world is a pre-canister?" Is it some sort of filter? Or one of those gas tank fume traps? When I get to it, how do I know whether it needs to be replaced? What am I looking for?
    Regards, Patrick H.
    I believe it is to trap the gas fumes. Look under your left side bag all it is a cheap black filter in a plastic housing. Your could replace it or just inspect it and if it looks good wait for the next change. You will have to jack up the bike a bit to get to it. I didn't remove any Tupper ware to do it.
    Its mounted to the left side rear frame

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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    I've done my canister pre-filter twice, at 28 and 56K. Trust me, it is no problem removing the Tupperware. As you sit on the Spyder the pre-filter is on the outside of the frame, about where your left butt cheek is. If you are concerned about panel removal, take pictures before you remove anything, and if you're concerned about putting the correct length screws back in the proper place the only one you have to be certain about is the most rearward one on the rear side panel, #3 in the top picture on pg 48 of your operator's guide. It's the shortest one. You are going to have to remove the right rear side panel to change the fuel filter and the same applies.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
    ******************************
    Cognac 2014 RT-S

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    Thank you TrikerMutha and thank you JayBros. Good scoop.

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    JayBros,
    I too earned the right to display the EGA as you do. Some of the "earning" was in engineer school at CourtHouse Bay, near you. Semper Fi, Patrick

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    Smile Inhale

    Quote Originally Posted by PatrickH View Post
    Hello TrikerMutha,
    I'm at the dread 28k point with my 2014 RT and am determined to do my own maintenance for this milestone. First question is "what in the world is a pre-canister?" Is it some sort of filter? Or one of those gas tank fume traps? When I get to it, how do I know whether it needs to be replaced? What am I looking for?
    Regards, Patrick H.
    Evap filter is used to filter clean air via Charcoal Canister from which fuel vapors from fuel tank are drawn into the engine to burned. Instead of fuel vapors being expelled into the atmosphere,they are absorbed by the media in the evap canister.
    How do you know when to replace? .......inexpensive, preventive maintenance.
    2019 F3L , Covid Blue

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    Hello BikerChris, but is the pre-canister an evap filter? Or is the evap filter yet an additional part that has to be inspected and/or replaced?

  17. #17
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    The pre canister that sits to the rear of the bike that people are referring to is just an vent air filter in a square plastic housing. The book says to replace it, but in reality it can be opened up (by way of screws) and cleaned and reinstalled for no cost. When I replaced mine on my 2014 at the 28k servicing I spent a couple of minutes opening it up and found it was very dirty. I had already bought a replacement before I looked at it, not thinking it was serviceable. It is. (Unless BRP has changed it over the years.)
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  18. #18
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    My pre-filter at 28K was a little rusty inside when I inspected it so I replaced. Planning for the same appearance at 56K I bought a new filter, installed it and inspected the old one that I brushed off and could have used again but chucked it. I don't mind the minor expense.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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  19. #19
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    If you open it up its a small square filter. If it not deteriorating blow it out and reuse it. If not replace it and you are good till the next 28k. Maintenance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PatrickH View Post
    Hello BikerChris, but is the pre-canister an evap filter? Or is the evap filter yet an additional part that has to be inspected and/or replaced?
    It’s separate....go to can am parts.....look up part for yourSpyder.
    2019 F3L , Covid Blue

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    Thanks. Good to know. Question: can I just lay on the garage floor beneath the left saddlebag, look up and see this pre-canister thingy above me (to see whether it's serviceable or whether I have to buy a replacement for it)? Or do I have to take off saddlebag or some other tupperware first? Patrick H

  22. #22
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    You do not have to take off the left saddlebag; the pre-filter us just forward of the bag. You cannot see the condition of the pre-filter without disassembling it for inspection. FWIW, I tried to focus a mirror on it and could not see it. Of course I didn't lift the bike, but for me, despite my advanced age I am still very agile but I would prefer to remove the Tupperware. I don't want to work in a confined space and laying on my back to remove the filter. If you want to remove panels, you must remove the mirror, side panel and rear side panel. That's five minutes of work if you've done it before, ten if it's the first time. If you're planning on doing all or the major portion of a 28K service you're going to have to remove those three panels on the right side to replace the fuel filter. The most intimidating task if you've never done it before is removing a mirror. Watch this link, https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw&feature=youtu.behttp://, and starting at about 11:00 you will see the correct method of removing a mirror.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
    ******************************
    Cognac 2014 RT-S

  23. #23
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    Its easier to jack up the bike a bit to give your the height to remove and service the canister. You dont need to remove tupper ware but you can if you like.

    Its behind the left saddle bag mounted to the rear frame.

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    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbaucum View Post
    I have a 2015 RTL with 27k miles. According to the manual there is a 28k miles service. The dealer quoted $2k to do the full service and $1k to do the HCM oil filter, canister pre filter, fuel filter, air filter and coolant. He said the front clip will have to be removed to do the coolant. His quote
    "Gone are the days of removing an 8mm hex head and draining the coolant at at the water pump, there is nothing easy on these spyders." And don't suggest I do it myself; too old to do that kind of work now.
    What have you guys done and how much do you think is necessary?
    Thanks for your input.
    The biggest pain is changing the spark plugs. After I pulled mine out they looked like I could have left them in for another 28,000 miles. I'd be inclined to skip that part of the 28,000 list. For my experience see this thread: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...angeout-Part-1

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

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    Please forgive a dumb question...I just purchased a 2014 with 27.2k on the odo...it had an oil change and new tires put on at 26.6k. I'm going to do the 28k service myself...will I have to drain the oil to replace the HCM filter (why change fresh oil if I dont have to)?
    tnx
    Tom

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