Hello I have a question on the T45 plug I’ve never changed the oil on my 2016 RTL only because the dealer thru in a 2 yr free service when I bought it in 2018. My question is I’m leaking oil I thought it might be from the oil change but it’s still dripping so I did some checking and noticed that the plug was oily. Ok I put a T45 on a short extension and I notice it was crooked (at an angle when in)not straight up and down as I would have thought. I’m sure it’s the T45 a 6mm doesn’t seem to fit. Anyhow is that normal to be at an angle or should it be straight up and down for you that have changed your oil on the 1330. I’m due back at the dealers Saturday but I think they cross threaded that drain plug. Thanks for any answers. And this isn’t the first time the dealer did an oil change on my Spyder. Thanks Michrick
The crankcase plug hole is not vertical as the Spyder sits on a level surface. If you put your finger on the plug itself you will feel the angle. Therefore, if you insert a T45 bit correctly into the plug it will appear angled. The dealership would have had to really botch the process to cross thread the plug and you'd have a whale of a leak. I'll bet they simply did not change the O-rings and the aluminum washer.
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Agreed...they likely don't have a supply of crush washers or o-rings on hand so they just use the old ones multiple times. I'd recommend getting the Gold hex head plugs and the o rings/washers for this oil change you have in mind. It only takes a few days to get the plugs, and it'll save headaches in the future.
Agreed...they likely don't have a supply of crush washers or o-rings on hand so they just use the old ones multiple times. I'd recommend getting the Gold hex head plugs and the o rings/washers for this oil change you have in mind. It only takes a few days to get the plugs, and it'll save headaches in the future.
The crankcase plug hole is not vertical as the Spyder sits on a level surface. If you put your finger on the plug itself you will feel the angle. Therefore, if you insert a T45 bit correctly into the plug it will appear angled. The dealership would have had to really botch the process to cross thread the plug and you'd have a whale of a leak. I'll bet they simply did not change the O-rings and the aluminum washer.
.... I always had a problem only with the Torx head plug so I switched to the GOLD plug ...... Mike
I am still fine with the factory drain plugs. Key is to use good correct tools that dont damage the drain heads. Also use a rubber sealed washer versus the copper ones.
From what I've read here on SL the problem with the 1330 crankcase plug may have reasonably begun with DIYers who assumed since there was a hole in the plug it had to be an Allen so they stick in the closest fit, probably a 3/32", and that started things on the road south.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
From what I've read here on SL the problem with the 1330 crankcase plug may have reasonably begun with DIYers who assumed since there was a hole in the plug it had to be an Allen so they stick in the closest fit, probably a 3/32", and that started things on the road south.
Yep, did exactly that on the T45 Torx side on previous '14 RT. Luckily, I didn't ream it out before finding out it was a torx and bought one. Doesn't make sense to me they use a torx on one side and 6mm allen on other!
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M12x1.5 plug same as Goldwing 2019, M14x1.5 plug same as Goldwing 1988-2017. Head to your Honda dealer! Both magnetic
Nope, not for a 1330 engine. The crankcase plug has 2 orings as it drains both the sump and the crankcase. Its a long plug with the threads on the far end.
The OEM drain plugs will last as long you use the correct tools and apply a steady force until it releases. Don't jerk around with the wrench or cheater bar, which is what I use.
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It would trouble me to use a plug other than the one designed for the Spyder RTL such as the hex heads from Lamonster. I certainly don't enjoy spending the extra $, but peace of mind is worth something.
I thought about changing to those, but I read somewhere that they have a tendency to break.
True ??
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The OEM drain plugs will last as long you use the correct tools and apply a steady force until it releases. Don't jerk around with the wrench or cheater bar, which is what I use.
Indeed.
A cheater bar allows you to apply pressure at a steady rate far easier when compared to a shorter handle.
Just make sure you're going the right direction, LOL.
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Egads, hope not. I have not made a purchase yet, but I'm subscribed for any information that may follow.
Didn't mean to scare you, but I think they were breaking when people are putting too much torque when reinstalling them.
Don't quote me on that though....
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Entirely possible, when i did my oil changes on the GW Trike, I knew by feel how tight I should go, and never a weep, never a stripped thread, never problem. I think that should work on the Syder, no torque wrench flame pls, I might do the torque wrench.
I found a Torx Bit Driven into the Allen Head Drain Plug.
A dealer shop did that? That's another reason why I do all my own maintenance.
The engine is spic & span clean, that must be a new bike. Request a replacement plug from the dealer and save it for the next oil change which you will do, I hope.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
T 45 Question about Oil Drain Plug
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Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2
.... I always had a problem only with the Torx head plug so I switched to the GOLD plug ...... Mike
