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  1. #1
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    Default rear air-ride bag and compressor gone - is protector still avail?

    have the bike striped down. Going to replace the compressor, bag and possibly the check valve. I was wondering if it is still possible to get the "Doc Humphrey's" rubber cup(?) that I have read about for the bag? And would you replace any other tubing while apart? a bag and compressor, OEM type are about $500 from what I have found. If you have bought others from aftermarket, whom did you order from? not a "fun" job but I'm retired and do not want my dealer to get rich on my SSI limited funds.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Is the bag gone, or are you just changing it for a piece of mind? Do you find that you change the air setting a lot? If your trying to save money and want to have some thing more reliable, just go with the bag hooked up to the schrader valve, manual fill it! Set it and forget it, or gut it and spend your $500 on a good aftermarket shock and be done with the old finicky air system! It's great when it works, but not so much when you ride home on the swing arm!!! Good Luck
    2012 RTL , Pearl

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    Here You Go...

    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-Q...iABEgKhHfD_BwE

    The above is what it is...You'll need to drill a hole in the center and get a little longer metric bolt...

    These keep the bottom of the air bag from gathering stones and debris that wears holes in the bottom of the bag...

    NOT FUN TO INSTALL...Air bag needs removed to install cup...
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-21-2020 at 06:02 PM. Reason: Tried to fix link & display :-/

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    I see my link no longer works...All you need is a "Fernco" cap...Most plumbing stores will have...I "THINK" it takes the 3" size...You will need to drill a hole in the center and get a little longer metric bolt...(Again I don't remember the size or the length of the bolt)...This getting old and forgetful sucks when my saved notes fail...larryd

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    Quote Originally Posted by Myron Ah View Post
    have the bike striped down. Going to replace the compressor, bag and possibly the check valve. I was wondering if it is still possible to get the "Doc Humphrey's" rubber cup(?) that I have read about for the bag? And would you replace any other tubing while apart? a bag and compressor, OEM type are about $500 from what I have found. If you have bought others from aftermarket, whom did you order from? not a "fun" job but I'm retired and do not want my dealer to get rich on my SSI limited funds.
    Most of us use the Viair Compressor...I'd replace ALL the push lock air fitting with the compression type...Do a site search for the Viair Compressor...You'll find many posts...

  6. #6
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    I agree with Mikey, i would go from air bag to shrader valve and be done with it. From what i have seen, the usual culprit is the check valve gets really dirty/gummy from the road. This causes the compressor to go bad. Earlier compressors had a set screw that would come loose and the piston rod would disconnect from the crank. Good luck on what you decide to do.
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member irvin48's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by safecracker View Post
    I agree with Mikey, i would go from air bag to shrader valve and be done with it. From what i have seen, the usual culprit is the check valve gets really dirty/gummy from the road. This causes the compressor to go bad. Earlier compressors had a set screw that would come loose and the piston rod would disconnect from the crank. Good luck on what you decide to do.
    how hard is it to get to just the check valve and periodically clean it or replace ? that and the compressor were changed under warranty once!
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    Myron,

    I used a VIAIR 97 compressor - sourced from Amazon for around $75. You will need to make a couple of additional adjustments to fit the compressor; 1 - you will need to remove the bolts and rotate the new compressor head 180 degrees. 2 - You will likely need longer mounting bolts for the compressor because the VIAIR motor is larger in diameter and fully round compared to the OEM flat-sided motor. 3 - You may need to add a couple washers behind the brake fluid reservoir mounting points to shim it away from the larger compressor. Finally, this compressor draws more amperage than the OEM. A few have reported blown fuses due to the higher current draw. If that happens, you may need to add a relay to the existing circuit and wire the compressor load directly from the battery via a fused line. It's really not a terrible job - just takes a little time.

    PM me if I can be of further assistance. John
    2022 RT-L , Silver

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    Quote Originally Posted by JSRT View Post
    Myron,

    I used a VIAIR 97 compressor - sourced from Amazon for around $75. You will need to make a couple of additional adjustments to fit the compressor; 1 - you will need to remove the bolts and rotate the new compressor head 180 degrees. 2 - You will likely need longer mounting bolts for the compressor because the VIAIR motor is larger in diameter and fully round compared to the OEM flat-sided motor. 3 - You may need to add a couple washers behind the brake fluid reservoir mounting points to shim it away from the larger compressor. Finally, this compressor draws more amperage than the OEM. A few have reported blown fuses due to the higher current draw. If that happens, you may need to add a relay to the existing circuit and wire the compressor load directly from the battery via a fused line. It's really not a terrible job - just takes a little time.

    PM me if I can be of further assistance. John
    I do not like the way the 97C compressor mounts in the BRP mount either...The next one I do I think I'll order the Viair 98C that has a mount on the compressor and hopefully I can mount it doing a little nicer looking job...

    GREAT information JSRT...

    Also, Grandpot, a Spyderlovers member has some VERY nice videos for doing the compressor replacement with the Viair...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NR_LY7u8eY&t=1s

    larryd

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    We have bypassed the compressor and valve, making a straight shot from Schrader valve to air bag. All the parts are already there, so it is just labor. Check it when you check your tires. Works great. The 2020 STD RT is a manual fill.
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    Is the bag gone, or are you just changing it for a piece of mind? Do you find that you change the air setting a lot? If your trying to save money and want to have some thing more reliable, just go with the bag hooked up to the schrader valve, manual fill it! Set it and forget it, or gut it and spend your $500 on a good aftermarket shock and be done with the old finicky air system! It's great when it works, but not so much when you ride home on the swing arm!!! Good Luck
    I agree you dont need the compressor a good rear shock will hold up the rear and not bottom out.

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    Active Member Wahrsuul's Avatar
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    Well, seems the ACS in my 2014 went out as well. Not sure I want to fuss with it at this point.

    Checked fuse and relay. Pumped the system up and it goes flat in a couple of hours so I'm guessing I've got a leak somewhere and keeping up with it killed the compressor.

    What is the replacement compressor? And what fittings and how many do I need to replace? It's going to be a PITA, and after this I think the tryke and I will be parting ways.
    2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
    2014 RT-S , Orange

  13. #13
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wahrsuul View Post
    Well, seems the ACS in my 2014 went out as well. Not sure I want to fuss with it at this point.

    Checked fuse and relay. Pumped the system up and it goes flat in a couple of hours so I'm guessing I've got a leak somewhere and keeping up with it killed the compressor.

    What is the replacement compressor? And what fittings and how many do I need to replace? It's going to be a PITA, and after this I think the tryke and I will be parting ways.
    Sent you a PM
    2012 RTL , Pearl

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    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    I agree you dont need the compressor a good rear shock will hold up the rear and not bottom out.
    Maybe, but I think not. I believe the air bag system is a spring helper and sets the optimal ride height because of the large variation in rider/passenger weights. If you always ride one up or two up, you could probably get a different spring, set to the proper weight and with that get rid of the air bag system. Of course, a high quality and properly tuned shock is always a good thing.
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    Active Member Wahrsuul's Avatar
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    I was wondering the same thing - looking on Lamonster's site, one of the reviews of the Elka stage 2 rear shock says he used it to replace the leaking air bag. If this is an option, I'd go this way myself. But isn't that what some are doing here? Building the shock to take most or all of the weight unless there's a passenger.
    2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
    2014 RT-S , Orange

  16. #16
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    The biggest thing is most people over think this system and there is a lot of different things you can do, and money you can spend! When my bag or shock blows up on my ride it will get a nice Elka2 or M2 shock on her! They are adjustable, and rebuildable, easy, pezzey!! My compressor burned up last year I bypassed it for now, works great didn't cost me a thing! Have a good day!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myron Ah View Post
    have the bike striped down. Going to replace the compressor, bag and possibly the check valve. I was wondering if it is still possible to get the "Doc Humphrey's" rubber cup(?) that I have read about for the bag? And would you replace any other tubing while apart? a bag and compressor, OEM type are about $500 from what I have found. If you have bought others from aftermarket, whom did you order from? not a "fun" job but I'm retired and do not want my dealer to get rich on my SSI limited funds.
    Mine went out too. I ordered 3 new stage 2 Ella shocks from Leominster garage but the factory is a few weeks behind on their orders.
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  18. #18
    Active Member Wahrsuul's Avatar
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    Did you order the shocks to "replace" the sir bag or do you still plan to run it as well? I'm trying to figure out what to do with mine. The issue being that I ride mostly one-up with the wife only joining me occasionally (about three times in the last year) But between the two of us, we're about 50lb over the "limit" of the tryke. So I'm concerned that if I get a shock for the two of us, it'll be way too harsh with just me on it. And if I get one for just me, then then will the system still work for the two of us?
    2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
    2014 RT-S , Orange

  19. #19
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wahrsuul View Post
    Did you order the shocks to "replace" the sir bag or do you still plan to run it as well? I'm trying to figure out what to do with mine. The issue being that I ride mostly one-up with the wife only joining me occasionally (about three times in the last year) But between the two of us, we're about 50lb over the "limit" of the tryke. So I'm concerned that if I get a shock for the two of us, it'll be way too harsh with just me on it. And if I get one for just me, then then will the system still work for the two of us?
    No,no.no, when you order your shock they are going to ask you some questions you just tell them what you just said, they will build that shock to do what you want it to do, and you can do one of two things after you install the shock, take it out all together or hook it up direct to the schrader and put like 10 psi in the bag and use it for a over load bag for the times mother may have packed to heavy! If you leave the bag in there and it still holds air, you need to put a small amount of air in the bag so you don't pinch a hole in the bag for future use!! Good Luck
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  20. #20
    Active Member mcalva's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    .... Set it and forget it, or gut it and spend your $500 on a good aftermarket shock and be done with the old finicky air system! It's great when it works, but not so much when you ride home on the swing arm!!! Good Luck
    I did that on my old 2011 RT Ltd. My dealer disconnected the computer system and I changed the rear shock. No more problems.
    Plus you will remove a lot of junk
    2018 F3 Ltd. , Black/Dark

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    Quote Originally Posted by KX5062 View Post
    Maybe, but I think not. I believe the air bag system is a spring helper and sets the optimal ride height because of the large variation in rider/passenger weights. If you always ride one up or two up, you could probably get a different spring, set to the proper weight and with that get rid of the air bag system. Of course, a high quality and properly tuned shock is always a good thing.
    My setup works fine with one or two riders and never bottoms out. Don't need the sir bag or compressor. JMO

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    Yes, the bag was bad. I tested it over night without anything hooked to it. it all leaked out. It is going back together now! I bypassed the auto system. hooked up a gauge and switch to the compressor.

  23. #23
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    so, the Viair 97c compressor is installed and works. I bypassed the computer auto fill system. I left the sensors and such so it should still let out some if it is over filled for the setting. I ran power to a toggle switch and powered the compressor manually. I installed a psi gauge in the dash in place of my analog fuel gauge. I also installed a voltage gauge in place of my analog temperature gauge. Waiting on a new magnetic oil drain plug. I decided to change my own oil too. well, the service guys at the dealer were rough on the plug, especially when tightening it. The allen head or star head was stripped! I finally was able to get a bigger allen bit in it. after really pushing on it, "SNAP"!!!! Thought it broke but no, it loosened. So now it is wait for plug and my air filter. Hopefully by next week I'll be ryding.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myron Ah View Post
    so, the Viair 97c compressor is installed and works. I bypassed the computer auto fill system. I left the sensors and such so it should still let out some if it is over filled for the setting. I ran power to a toggle switch and powered the compressor manually. I installed a psi gauge in the dash in place of my analog fuel gauge. I also installed a voltage gauge in place of my analog temperature gauge. Waiting on a new magnetic oil drain plug. I decided to change my own oil too. well, the service guys at the dealer were rough on the plug, especially when tightening it. The allen head or star head was stripped! I finally was able to get a bigger allen bit in it. after really pushing on it, "SNAP"!!!! Thought it broke but no, it loosened. So now it is wait for plug and my air filter. Hopefully by next week I'll be ryding.
    Myron Ah, Did you get the Fernco cap that you wanted to use as a cup for the bottom of the air bag??? Also, You can use the factory dash "hard/soft switch to control the compressor on/off manually and the dump valve...Just need to unplug the factory harness from the rocker switch and get your test meter out and rewire it to suite you application...That would make you a nice winter project unless you have sleds to ride up there...larryd

    PS. plus now that you have total control of your air compressor and a air gauge you can get a thread on adapter for the schrader valve and a 12' coiled 1/4" plastic air hose and you can air up tires or anything else that needs air...larryd

  25. #25
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    My setup works fine with one or two riders and never bottoms out. Don't need the sir bag or compressor. JMO
    Glad to hear it worked for you.

    When I took delivery on my 2014 base model RT the dealer forgot to put air into the rear suspension. The ride home was horrible and was bottoming out on the smallest bumps and wallowing in every turn. I was drawing a blank, so I called Joe Meyers and after talking to him on the phone, he suggested I check the air pressure on the suspension bag, and sure enough, there was literally no air in it. I pumped it up to about 70# and problem solved. When pumping up the air bag I watched the rear of the bike rise to the proper ride height.
    2020 RTL SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6






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