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  1. #1
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    Default Maintenance ramp suggestions

    Probably this questions already been answered here, however, I'd like to ask again. Just got 2020 Spyder RTL, love this machine, but I'm afraid that my motorcycle jack will be no good for this one. RTL seems too wide, and lifting it up for oil change and maintenance could be a problem for me. I don't want to put a lift table in my garage, not enough space. What other budget options are available for lifting RTL? TIA!
    2020 Can-Am Spyder RTL
    2009 Yamaha V-Star 1300T (sold)
    2007 Yamaha V-Star 650 (sold)

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  2. #2
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    Drive it up on two car ramps and jack up the rear at the shock.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    A big +1 for car ramps. I don't bother jacking the rear wheel either. If you look at the locations of the crankcase plug and clutch cover plug (a bit difficult to get a 6 mm Alllen wrench fully into from what I read) they are both located rearward of the center line of the transversely mounted engine so having the rear tire on the garage floor is no big deal.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
    Drive it up on two car ramps and jack up the rear at the shock.


    One more suggestion, secure at least one front tire to it's ramp so as not to allow the spyder to freely roll backwards. Simply for safety reasons.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
    Drive it up on two car ramps and jack up the rear at the shock.
    +1
    Works fine for fluid changes on my Ryker
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  6. #6
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    Thank you guys, I was thinking along the same lines, thanks for confirming that!
    2020 Can-Am Spyder RTL
    2009 Yamaha V-Star 1300T (sold)
    2007 Yamaha V-Star 650 (sold)

    "I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could!"
    2020 RTL , Asphalt Grey Metallic

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Arion's Avatar
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    A pair of high strength "plastic" (reinforced nylon?) ramps from Auto Zone have served me well. not expensive and they will never rust.
    2012 2012 RT-L and 3015 RT-S , 2012 - red and 2015 black (way too black)

  8. #8
    Very Active Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arion View Post
    A pair of high strength "plastic" (reinforced nylon?) ramps from Auto Zone have served me well. not expensive and they will never rust.
    Probably the same as post 5 photo.
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    23 Moto Guzzi V7-850 SE 23 Yamaha XT250 18 Yamaha Bolt R-Spec 22 Triumph Street Twin 20 CanAM Ryker 900 14 Honda CB1100 18 Yamaha XT250 16 Moto Guzzi V7 II 17 Yamaha TW200 12 Triumph Bonneville 02 Sportster 1200 Sport 03 Sportster 883 76 Honda CB750F 75 Honda CB360 70 Yamaha CT1 72 Yamaha CT2 72 Yamaha AT2/CT2 70 Honda SL350 70 Honda CL350 67 Honda CL160 67 Honda CB160 62 Honda CA110
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogs View Post
    One more suggestion, secure at least one front tire to it's ramp so as not to allow the spyder to freely roll backwards. Simply for safety reasons.
    That's what my parking brake is for. My ramps also have a hump at the forward end of the incline portion as well as at the horizontal terminus so the front wheels can't roll in either direction.
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  10. #10
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    I set my ramps down on the floor at the rear of the tires and back up the ramps, that way I am not fighting the slope of the ramp when I do my oil on my RT! After I am up on the ramps, I just put a floor jack under the back lift it up and put a safety stand under the swing arm
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Arion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SportsterDoc View Post
    Probably the same as post 5 photo.
    Rhino RHN 11909 from O'Reilly's for $49.99, $44.99 with military/veteran discount.
    Certainly looks like that's the case. I should have examined the photo more closely.
    2012 2012 RT-L and 3015 RT-S , 2012 - red and 2015 black (way too black)

  12. #12
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    I set my ramps down on the floor at the rear of the tires and back up the ramps, that way I am not fighting the slope of the ramp when I do my oil on my RT! After I am up on the ramps, I just put a floor jack under the back lift it up and put a safety stand under the swing arm

    Never thought of doing it that way. Don't know about current F3, but prev RT wouldn't go up my metal ramps without serious rubbing of front scoop. I made three "boxes" out of 2 X 8's, jack it up with regular hydraulic jack, put one under each wheel.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    That's what my parking brake is for. My ramps also have a hump at the forward end of the incline portion as well as at the horizontal terminus so the front wheels can't roll in either direction.
    OMG, thanks JayBros. I never would have thought of that. Keep the good thoughts.

  14. #14
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    I should have said to back it onto the ramps. That keeps them out of your way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
    I should have said to back it onto the ramps. That keeps them out of your way.
    Great idea!
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    2009 Yamaha V-Star 1300T (sold)
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    2020 RTL , Asphalt Grey Metallic

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
    I should have said to back it onto the ramps. That keeps them out of your way.
    If it is on a cement floor the ramps may slide. Solve it by putting 2 pcs of 2x8 under the leading edge of the ramps. they are not as steep and it works.

  17. #17
    Active Member always young's Avatar
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    Yes, the steel ramps will slide on your cement floor. I solved this by putting inserts for 1/4 lag bolts in the floor to clamp down 2 pieces of 1x2x8 long wood. Removable when not needed (leave this inserts in the floor) and prevents the ramps from sliding when put against them. I changed my oil with the rear wheel on the floor without issue.
    Life is attitude, be positive!

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    2019 F3-S , Black & Silver

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