So far on my list of "Things to do" with the "new to my wife" Spyder is a laser alignment, which I will build the equipment for and a Flush and Repair of the clutch circuit and Slave Piston.
The clutch issue is why I am posting now. The pics below will tell a story, a familiar one to some I think.
When I first joined this site it was to investigate the Spyders and find out their level of service requirements. One of the post I came across talked about extremely dark and dirty hydraulic fluid in the clutch reservoir along with "floaties". I can't seem to find that particular thread again. It was from back in 2014 or so. In any respect, I have that same issue.
For the time being I have removed the contents of the reservoir, cleaned it and added fresh fluid. I will be picking up new "O" rings for the slave piston. The thread I read indicates that the "floaties" are bits and pieces of the "O" rings of the slave piston. They looked like grease but kept together when smeared on paper towel. Very gooey.
My questions are...
1) Have BRP upgraded the quality of the "O" rings or is this going to happen again?
2) Are their better 3rd party "O" rings out there as a kit?
3) Does anyone know the size (dimensions) of them? I have a kit of high quality Nitrile "O" rings.
Here's what I found. Looks like a miniature septic tank!
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
___
Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
Nitrile O rings are not compatible with phosphate ester brake fluid / clutch fluid. Being the clutch though, you could convert to DOT 5 silicone fluid and those O rings will work. You may need a new cup seal, but that will work with silicone fluid also.
I will keep it at DOT 4. I wouldn't want someone in the future (forgetful me) to add or semi flush with DOT 4.
I will use regular "O" rings. I forgot about the incompatibilities.
Do you know if the breakdown of the "O" rings, if that is what is going on, is a constant unresolved problem? I don't understand how that could have migrated up through the hose, through the master plunger and into the reservoir. Maybe it's part of the plunger in the master?
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
___
Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
On a 10 year old Spyder with a clutch system that looks like a septic tank, I agree, and I would suggest that you might be the first chap to change the fluid that should have been changed five times to date.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
On a 10 year old Spyder with a clutch system that looks like a septic tank, I agree, and I would suggest that you might be the first chap to change the fluid that should have been changed five times to date.
I am inclined to believe you!
I change the fluid in my brake and clutch reservoirs on all my bikes every spring. The reservoir is the one place (should be) that has any exposure or potential exposure to atmosphere and moisture. Brake fluid will draw it in and contaminate that volume of fluid first. Also over the winter with warm and cold cycles and the odd high moisture days increases the chance of exposure. It takes mere minutes to suck out the old, clean up the reservoir and fill it back up. I do a complete brake and clutch bleed every other year.
I have a digital hydrometer that displays water % in the brake fluid. When I rested this goo it was into the bad bad bad range so it's a given that I am going to do a complete change.
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
___
Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
Are you sure it is just the o-rings? The rubber lines used for clutch and brake systems will also break down over time and it isn't noticeable from the outside.
Are you sure it is just the o-rings? The rubber lines used for clutch and brake systems will also break down over time and it isn't noticeable from the outside.
Well, that could be. I would hope that they would use a better quality brake line that would last better than 10 years. You are right though. I am only say the "O" rings because of a few posts that mention that as a possible issue. All I know at this point is that is was not gummed up brake fluid.
Eventually SS brake lines will go on it. There is a guy near me that makes all my Goldwing clutch and brake lines from scratch. He does awesome work.
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
___
Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
Checked the parts book, complete assemblies only in regards to the clutch master cylinder.
Guess you need to sort out what brand you have and the piston diameter, then see if the aftermarket offers a kit, even for a different brand.
FWIW, if someone used DOT 5.1, not the silicone 5.0, that stuff is known to clump and cause issues. 5.1 must be flushed and bled often, whether in brakes or clutch. Pretty much garbage except for race bikes and high performance street bikes seeing way over the speed limit speeds.
Are you sure it is just the o-rings? The rubber lines used for clutch and brake systems will also break down over time and it isn't noticeable from the outside.
That would be my experience in other bikes too and not the o rings unless they're failing due to contamination.
Looks like a miniature septic tank!
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Originally Posted by JayBros
