2013 RTL oil consumption and was rung light

[Chiefburg]

I bought a used 2013 RTL with 7000 miles on it. Upon delivery, I checked the oil (cold) and it wasn’t registering on the dipstick. No manual came with but I did search online and I believe when cold the oil should be halfway up the dipstick. I added oil to bring it up within standards. Last Friday I put about 30 miles on it and got a “check engine” light along with the illuminated oil light. Granted, it was 105 degrees outside and I run it up to 5000rpms due to posts on this forum to keep the revs up and not to dog it. I pulled over and shut it down for about 5 minutes and started it again. No check engine and no oil light and I drove it home without any lights coming on.

I checked it cold the next day and there is no oil registering on the stick again. I don’t have any oil residue from the exhaust, no smoke, and not a single drip on the concrete. Any idea what I should be checking for?

Jerry

[Chiefburg]

The title should say “warning light”......stoooopid autocorrect....

[AeroPilot]

First thing with Rotax dry sump engines is always check oil at Normal operating temp - that means after at least a 10 mile ride....

Then follow the manual instructions on page 127 for your 13 RT

http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/I...a-3ff030765937


Click the upper left box and Select the YeaR 2013, Roadster and your model which is the RT.


Yes the 998 twin engine will use about a half quart every 1000 miles or so.... but check the oil as per procedure in the manual, usually best when you pull in the garage at the end of a ride for best results.

[Bensonoid]

I check mine at the end of every ride. It's a PIA but it's the best way.

[BajaRon]

You're never going to get an accurate reading checking the oil level cold on any Spyder. Where the oil is on the dipstick, or even if it doesn't register on the dipstick at all is meaningless. Always check at operating temperature (oil operating temperature, not coolant). Checking at the end of a ride, or during a ride at a gas station after putting on 10 miles or so is the best way to go. Then you'll know exactly what you have.

Anything else is, at best, a waste of time. Most people end up overfilling if they check the level when the oil is not at operating temperature.

[Chiefburg]

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate the help as I’m learning how this all works.

[pegasus1300]

Look on the side of your oil tank. If it hasn't worn off there should be a sticker that gives you instructions on how to check your oil. Congrats on the new Spyder and enjoy.
Oh and BTW as a new owner look for the post entitled Do's and Don't of your Spyder. Great info for new owners on lots of different subjects. It is a sticky in the general discussion forum.

[Peter Aawen]

And PLEASE, if you like your Spyder, don't add oil when the engine is cold just cos it doesn't show on the dip-stick !! Especially if you've topped it up recently (in the last 500-1000 miles or so) so it SHOULD be fairly right!!

Even tho some might tell you that over-filling these things can't do any harm, it CAN make an awful mess of your engine compartment & inlet tracts (BTDT, bought the T'shirt, hadta catch the bus home!! ) and I know people who have had to buy new engines after over-filling their dry-sump engine with oil then running it hard like that for a while....

[Chiefburg]

First thing with Rotax dry sump engines is always check oil at Normal operating temp - that means after at least a 10 mile ride....

Then follow the manual instructions on page 127 for your 13 RT

http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/I...a-3ff030765937


Click the upper left box and Select the YeaR 2013, Roadster and your model which is the RT.


Yes the 998 twin engine will use about a half quart every 1000 miles or so.... but check the oil as per procedure in the manual, usually best when you pull in the garage at the end of a ride for best results.

It’s a new paradigm on checking oil. Yes, the dipstick did not register any oil when cold. At temperature, the oil showed frothy and 1/8th inch over the full mark. Is this normal? Should some oil be removed?

Still not sure why I got an “oil” light, along with a check engine light, the other night and then they went away....

[AeroPilot]

Not sure where all the excess oil goes on an overfull Rotax, but in general it can be whisked into foam in the crankcase when the crank spins into higher than designed oil level. Foamed oil will not be pumped as efficiently by the oil pumps, resulting in low oil pressure (light) and other sensor warnings.

Best to rely on the oil check regimen as specified for your engine, and things should be good. Our 2011 RT was running strong with over 76,000 miles when we traded for the 1330 engine, and I also saw erratic dipstick readings on it until I learned to follow the new regimen. Thanks for your reply and best wishes for many miles of smiles on your RT!!

[Peter Aawen]

There's generally not so much of a 'foaming' issue with dry-sump motors (which is just one of the reasons they are used in HiPo vehicles/aircraft!) but excess oil in the Spyders seems to somehow end up in air cleaner &/or the engine side inlet & if you ryde with too much oil in there like that long enough &/or hard enough, the excess oil can end up either slowly feeding into or outright dumping into the cylinders.... where just a little too much 'upper cylinder lubricant' can eventually foul things up... but a sudden influx of oil can do much worse damage!!