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  1. #1
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    Default battery needed - what's the best replacement

    guess i need a new battery,any suggestions on the best battery, Thanks

  2. #2
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    OEM

    Jack
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    OEM seems a good choice to me also.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

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    On my 6th year on my OEM battery

  5. #5
    Active Member RideOn's Avatar
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    I've had good luck with Yuasa in both Spyder and Harleys. I'm pretty sure the OEM is a Yuasa with Can-Am branding.

    The correct battery for most Spyders is the YTX24HL. Avoid any that have a -BS suffix, as that means you have to add the acid and charge. Otherwise, it is fully filled and charged at the factory. There is a battery finder on Yuasa's website: https://www.yuasabatteries.com/

    Generally these batteries are cheaper on Amazon, but not always.
    “There comes a time in the affairs of men... when we must seize the bull by the tail and face the situation.” - W.C. Fields

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  6. #6
    Very Active Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Some will debate that adding sulfuric acid ensures a fresh battery, versus a factory filled battery.
    However, some factory filled AGM batteries are vacuum filled, which allows more absorbtion.
    Dekka took over H-D OEM from Yuasa, about 15 years ago.
    The difference between a Dekka battery and a Dekka manufactured H-D battery, is that H-D specified vacuum filled.
    However, I think most recent H-D batteries are no longer Dekka, as Sportster riders have reported a shorter battery life, the last couple years.

    Having Yuasa batteries in many (most) M/C, they have a good reputation, however, with good life reports from OEM Can-Am batteries, if price is close to same, I would go with OEM.
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member Bensonoid's Avatar
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    Still on the original battery in my 2013.
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    I will soon replace my 2017 battery on Mr. White. I change out my batteries every three years. Many do not agree but I don't want to get caught with a dead battery in far west Texas.....no cell service in some areas I ride....JMHO

    I traded my 2014 RT for a 2017 Mr. White RT-S. I am George Lewis. I live two miles from Boerne, TX. I am 89, retired USAF and Sony Corp. I also have a GW MotorTrike. My email: scoot62@aol.com

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    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I also agree with Mr. White above. I came from Alaska. Same reasoning for why. Some things are hard to change.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

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  10. #10
    Very Active Member bigbadbrucie's Avatar
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    I, personally, see nothing wrong with your reasoning. It may be a bit of over kill, but peace of mind is much more important.


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  11. #11
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Thing with batteries is that they can fail without any notice. I tend to replace my battery every (4) years. I'm perfectly content with Yausa AGM batteries.


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  12. #12
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SportsterDoc View Post
    Some will debate that adding sulfuric acid ensures a fresh battery, versus a factory filled battery.
    However, some factory filled AGM batteries are vacuum filled, which allows more absorbtion.
    Dekka took over H-D OEM from Yuasa, about 15 years ago.
    The difference between a Dekka battery and a Dekka manufactured H-D battery, is that H-D specified vacuum filled.
    However, I think most recent H-D batteries are no longer Dekka, as Sportster riders have reported a shorter battery life, the last couple years.

    Having Yuasa batteries in many (most) M/C, they have a good reputation, however, with good life reports from OEM Can-Am batteries, if price is close to same, I would go with OEM.
    The confusion with which is better factory filled or bottle filled on Spyderlovers is that the battery in earlier models of Spyders were on their side. The factory supplied battery was bottle filled. That looked like the best choice. Because it did not matter how long it took until the spyder was sold and prepped. The battery would be just like new. If the dealer did not take the time to properly prep the battery. Charge for 12 hrs upright with the caps off. Not all the air bubbles would come out of the glass mat and they would leak laying on their side in the Spyder. The damage that would create for BRP was big. Even though it was a dealer prep issue. So BRP went to a factory filled battery. Even though the battery starts to age once it is filled. Because of that on Spyderlovers it became the common believe that factory filled batteries were better. Not true. But that's the way it is.

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  13. #13
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3ntune View Post
    guess i need a new battery,any suggestions on the best battery, Thanks
    So I assume you had the battery load tested and it failed. If not. Then I agree you are just guessing that's your problem.

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  14. #14
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by troop View Post
    Thing with batteries is that they can fail without any notice. I tend to replace my battery every (4) years. I'm perfectly content with Yausa AGM batteries.
    This sounds like an excellent way to have a great battery .... but what if the NEW battery is defective !!! - it happens ..... then your Old battery that may have been very good is gone ..... just a thought ..... Mike

  15. #15
    Active Member ChicagoSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by troop View Post
    Thing with batteries is that they can fail without any notice. I tend to replace my battery every (4) years. I'm perfectly content with Yausa AGM batteries.
    Every 4 years is where I'm at to, and AGM for the win.


    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    This sounds like an excellent way to have a great battery .... but what if the NEW battery is defective !!! - it happens ..... then your Old battery that may have been very good is gone ..... just a thought ..... Mike
    It's the odds Mike, it's the odds
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  16. #16
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    This sounds like an excellent way to have a great battery .... but what if the NEW battery is defective !!! - it happens ..... then your Old battery that may have been very good is gone ..... just a thought ..... Mike
    Fortunately, I never had that happen. That said, I buy my batteries locally as my old employer gives me great pricing. Returning not an issue. Now, out on a trip, that would be a PIA..


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  17. #17
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    I don't have a problem with changing out batteries at certain time intervals. If it give you peace of mind and in hotter climates it may be a good idea. But to think that a new battery for certain will be better than the old battery. Well that is probably likely true but you don't really know unless you do some testing and don't guess. I have had several new batteries fail in a short period of time. On the other hand I have had batteries last 8 years or more.

    The problem I have is folks changing out the battery for a new one when they don't really know it's the problem. It comes up on this board all the time. Almost any electrical problem question comes up. Someone will recommend putting in a new battery. So some folks do. So often the problem is not fixed. So money is spent on a new battery without fixing anything. So the new battery is run dead a bunch of times until the real problem is found and fixed. By then several years of life has been taken out of the new battery and maybe it should be changed again. If you think the battery is bad. Charge it. If it takes a charge. Load test it. If it fails replace it. If it passes. Something else is wrong and fix that. When that problem is fixed. Test the battery again. It could have been damaged trying to fix the other problem.

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  18. #18
    Very Active Member irvin48's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    On my 6th year on my OEM battery
    mine too. and still tests great.
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  19. #19
    Active Member thereverend's Avatar
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    I use the one's that LaMonster sells above at the Spyder Store. The yellow one has 4 posts instead of 2.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by irvin48 View Post
    mine too. and still tests great.
    Mine tested good too. Got me one of them battery analyzer's. Battery Still showed good. So left in the Spyder.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideOn View Post
    I've had good luck with Yuasa in both Spyder and Harleys. I'm pretty sure the OEM is a Yuasa with Can-Am branding.

    The correct battery for most Spyders is the YTX24HL. Avoid any that have a -BS suffix, as that means you have to add the acid and charge.

    There is a battery finder on Yuasa's website: https://www.yuasabatteries.com/ Generally these batteries are cheaper on Amazon, but not always.
    I just tried the Yuasa website search by vehicle tool. They don't list Can-Am. Am I missing something?
    2014 RTL Platinum


  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    I just tried the Yuasa website search by vehicle tool. They don't list Can-Am. Am I missing something?
    I searched by battery and found it under BRP snowmobiles...

    Anyway, ordered from Amazon - it was the best price at $93 + free shipping.
    2014 RTL Platinum


  23. #23
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thereverend View Post
    I use the one's that LaMonster sells above at the Spyder Store. The yellow one has 4 posts instead of 2.
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  24. #24
    Active Member RULINGCHAOS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideOn View Post
    Avoid any that have a -BS suffix, as that means you have to add the acid and charge.
    I noticed this listing on Amazon.

    https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Batter...0-4513d670b6bc

    Says the battery is sealed and no acid is needed. It has the -BS on it. Is this still the case?


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  25. #25
    Very Active Member Woodaddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RULINGCHAOS View Post
    I noticed this listing on Amazon.

    https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Batter...0-4513d670b6bc

    Says the battery is sealed and no acid is needed. It has the -BS on it. Is this still the case?
    you get what you pay for..................i wouldn't buy that cheap a battery. couldn't find CCA on info. i prefer BS tho, so i can fill myself and charge
    2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400



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