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  1. #1
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    Default Instrument Cluster Test by Swapping - is it safe?

    Hi, all,


    I have a suspicious instrument cluster on my 2011 SM5 Rt. starts up but goes blank in the center. , Gas and temp gauges don't work, as well as the turn indicators. Also we can't put her in reverse with the button. (Brake lights work, emergency lights, etc. work. You can start her after a few seconds and she runs well and changes gears well.) Hasn't gone into limp mode.

    Prior to the blackout, or grey out, I have had VSS and DPS going on at off randomly, as well as ABS lights on the dash. Fault codes C0020 C006C were showing the last check.
    Now I can't even see the screen and the test for codes doesn't work.

    Many posts here place the trouble on the battery, but ours is two years old, showing all the appropriate amps voltage using multimeter and we did a load test on the battery. Voltage going to the cluster was 10.4.

    Just to make sure, though, we bought a new battery, put it in, no difference.

    Since there could be many other causes, we are a little wary to order a new cluster, but a friend has a 2010 rt exactly the same as mine. We thought it would be an idea to put his cluster in ours, or ours in his, but will not do so unless there is no risk to his cluster or his ECM. Reached out to BRP who redirected us to our dealer, who is not very experienced at all in this area.

    Any and all feedback is so welcomed! Thanks in advance.

    Andrea
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-28-2020 at 05:47 PM. Reason: This is a 'How do I?' not a 'How to:' diy explanation....

  2. #2
    RT-S PE#0412 TicketBait's Avatar
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    Gosh, I don’t have the answer for you. I just know my 2010 RT cluster went bad, and the dealership replaced it with a 2011 cluster under warranty and everything has been fine since, Since it was a new cluster the mileage/odometer started over again.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Call other dealers (close or not) you just need helpful information, one of them should have answers. More hands on approach: Before swapping (maybe extreme, but lower risk)carefully go through & CLEAN, ANY& ALL accessible electrical connections. Battery, fuses,relays, dash plugs. Don’t suggest spraying dash with any electric cleaner. (Try keep it dry) Inspect for bent pins or misshaped connections, heat warping. Anything that looks “odd” from rest. Some connections will be tough,
    do not force might do more than bust a knuckle :banghead.
    Sorry course most dealers closed on Monday
    Last edited by Bfromla; 06-29-2020 at 03:11 AM. Reason: Srz

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  4. #4
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrea Cook View Post
    Many posts here place the trouble on the battery, but ours is two years old, showing all the appropriate amps voltage using multimeter and we did a load test on the battery. Voltage going to the cluster was 10.4.

    Just to make sure, though, we bought a new battery, put it in, no difference.
    10.5 is the threshold. Below that the cluster goes berserk, and the bike won't start. Are you sure the new battery is good? New batteries have been known to not be good, especially if they aren't properly conditioned before using. But if the bike starts and the cluster still goes wonky, and the voltage is above 10.5, then that indicates the cluster could very well be bad, especially if that is a known problem with the early RTs.

    2014 Copper RTS

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    10.5 is the threshold. Below that the cluster goes berserk, and the bike won't start. Are you sure the new battery is good? New batteries have been known to not be good, especially if they aren't properly conditioned before using. But if the bike starts and the cluster still goes wonky, and the voltage is above 10.5, then that indicates the cluster could very well be bad, especially if that is a known problem with the early RTs.
    Thanks for all the responses. We've checked and tested the circuits, the battery both old and new (old battery is okay and only slightly lower than the new one even under load testing), the power from the battery and to the cluster per the repair manual, which is also within parameters. One last test of the CAN WIRE to do to be sure. Looks more and more like the cluster itself. Damned expensive part, but a necessity.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    One thing.
    BRP was replacing the early clusters as part of a warranty claim regarding the PTT button and CB radio issues.
    I don't know if you can still make a claim, but you might consider it.
    And yes, the odometer is part of the cluster. You will go back down to 0 miles, so the cluster repair may also affect resale value. It did mine.
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member JP58's Avatar
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    I dont know about the early 990 models. But you can't just swap clusters on the 1330. The speedo has to be reset with buds. The tech replaced my friends 15 RTS cluster for a problem and forgot to add new cluster numbers and reset. It went bonkers when he picked it up. Gage's and speedo jumped all over the place.
    2018 F3 Limited , Oxford Blue

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