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Very Active Member
2020 RT Oil Change Warning
I just completed the 3000 mile service on my 2020 RTL. This involves the first scheduled oil and filter change. As is the case with the earlier 1330 engines, the engine oil drain and the clutch oil drain are different hardware. The engine oil drain is torx headed, and the clutch drain is hex-headed. (6mm). However, with the new body style, now the clevis that attaches the brake rod to the pedal arm interferes with getting on the clutch drain plug squarely. So now it's even easier to strip out the head of the drain plug. Mine was extremely over-torqued from the factory. I used a 10mm wrench and a 5mm allen wrench and disconnected the brake rod long enough to drain the oil. Luckily I had already ordered the replacement magnetic drain plugs with the oil change kit from our site sponsor Lamonster Garage. I strongly recommend anyone doing their own oil change, do away with the different hardware and replace your plugs with the hex-headed ones, and use a torque wrench to seat the new drain plugs. Using a new crush washer, the correct torque is probably a lot lower than you think it is. As for the 2020 oil filter access, I think it's a lot easier than on the earlier models. You only have to remove the right side service panel (which snaps on and off). Then simply pull the brake fluid reservoir vertically about an inch and it will come off the bracket it hangs on. Move the fluid reservoir rearward to access the oil filter as on earlier models.
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Active Member
My concern has to do with protecting your warranty. Who is doing your "3,000 mile checkup"? Will you dealer honor your warranty if something happens at 7,500 miles? On my 2019 I felt it was prudent to pay the dealer to change the oil and do the checkup. At the same time I had the laser alignment done. Total bill at Florida Motorsports in Naples Fl was $536. Not cheap, but reasonable to protect a $27,000 machine. BTW, the laser alignment was $150 and was worth every penny. I also installed the Bajaron sway bar and my spyder is no longer "twitchy".
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by WDAVEY
My concern has to do with protecting your warranty. Who is doing your "3,000 mile checkup"? Will you dealer honor your warranty if something happens at 7,500 miles? On my 2019 I felt it was prudent to pay the dealer to change the oil and do the checkup. At the same time I had the laser alignment done. Total bill at Florida Motorsports in Naples Fl was $536. Not cheap, but reasonable to protect a $27,000 machine. BTW, the laser alignment was $150 and was worth every penny. I also installed the Bajaron sway bar and my spyder is no longer "twitchy".
Why would changing your own oil have a bearing on your warranty. Or more simply, how can there be oil change places all over the place doing service on newer cars if the warranty would be affected. I could see a problem if you totally botched the job and left the plug out allowing the new oil to run all over the floor and still tried to ride it til it seized up. Short of that, how could it?
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Active Member
It is probably prudent to get your first checkup at your dealership other then that you can do your oil changes it does not affect your warranty
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Agree Rudy, that is my plan.
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Was it over torque from factory or the dealer?
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Very Active Member
Like any other oil change as long as you document it there will be no warranty problem. You can do what you want.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Very Active Member
The engine comes from the factory with oil. The plugs are installed by the manufacturer, Rotax. There is no voiding of the warranty just because you do the work yourself, provided you follow the manufacturers' recommendations on the type of oil used. That's why they print that info in the owners manual, along with the torque values to be used. As to performing the 3000 mile service, or any other service for that matter, I use the factory service manual and the correct tools. After spending almost 40 years working on multi-million dollar Boeing and Airbus aircraft daily, I feel confident in my ability to correctly service the $27000 machine that I ride on!
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JetFixer, wish I lived close to you, rather pay you the big bucks than the dealer.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by bikerbillone
JetFixer, wish I lived close to you, rather pay you the big bucks than the dealer.
If you lived close to me you'd realize like the gang in our riding club, that your money would not be any good with me!! BTW, I used to live in Daytona when I went to ERAU...
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Active Member
Originally Posted by EdMat
Why would changing your own oil have a bearing on your warranty. Or more simply, how can there be oil change places all over the place doing service on newer cars if the warranty would be affected. I could see a problem if you totally botched the job and left the plug out allowing the new oil to run all over the floor and still tried to ride it til it seized up. Short of that, how could it?
My concern was for whatever else is included in the "3,000 mile checkup" that is called for in the owner's manual. I don't know what gets checked, but I didn't want to learn the hard way. As far as the oil change goes, car companies are notorious for denying warranty claims if the oil and filters used are not up to factory specs. If you do change your own oil, I recommend keeping very detailed records.
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The only thing that you need the dealer for is hooking up to BUDS and you can find out from them if there are any updates. If not there is no reason to take it in. Follow the manual and check the items on the maintenance schedule and document what you did, when you did it and what your mileage is.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-25-2023 at 04:08 PM.
Reason: Revived OP gutted Post...
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Interesting, you sound like a really good 'Spyder' neighbor. Ahhh, Daytona, many Bike Weeks and Biketober Fests there, but not so much anymore, samo, samo, every year.
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I looked at that brake rod bolt. A long shaft Allen socket gets by, but I’m thinking, reverse it. If the Allen head is inboard, and the nylock nut is outboard, No interference!! I’ll do that tomorrow - she needs an oil change.
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by cptjam
I looked at that brake rod bolt. A long shaft Allen socket gets by, but I’m thinking, reverse it. If the Allen head is inboard, and the nylock nut is outboard, No interference!! I’ll do that tomorrow - she needs an oil change.
Yes, that's what I did since it will be awhile before the next oil change.
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IF you do your own oil change keep all the paper / electronic receipts. Note the service in your owners manual. Your warranty will be good.
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Heh,
I'll mention one *dubious benefit to dealer servicing...I noticed I was missing the right side lower air dam just below the mirror. Stopped by the dealer and pointed it out - had to have been forgotten when I last had it serviced as I've have it under a service contract and they're the only ones to touch it. Service were very good and kind about it - they popped one on while I went to get some oil and a filter for my Roady. In and out in less than 10 minutes. Moral of the story - check your bike/car/airplane after servicing - it's rare but sometime even a good mechanic has a slip.
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