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  1. #1
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    Default 2013 rt Limited Front trunk actuator wont actuate

    Hey guys just purchased a 2013 spyder rt limited and really have been enjoying it but I am going crazy trying to figure out something that should be simple. The front trunk actuator worked once and now wont open when I press the toggle button on the console. I've checked the hood switch, and tried to narrow down the electrical circuits. The only thing I can figure out is that there is no current getting to the actuator. The trunk light works. The horn works. The fuses all look good.

    Any one have any info on how to fix this? Do I have to remove most of the front body parts to get to the issue?

    Thanks in advance for your help!

  2. #2
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Do you have the engine running when trying to actuate the trunk switch? I think that was a requirement. Regardless, it should still work by pushing the key in and turning it, power on or off.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  3. #3
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    I've tried to open it with the key in every position thinking I might be doing it wrong. Sure I can still open it with the key but if the engine is on I have to turn off the bike to open the trunk and really I just want it to work, cause it should...

  4. #4
    Active Member trong's Avatar
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    I think if the ignition is on and engine if off you can open with the switch, if the engine is running then transmission has to be in Neutral for that switch to work. Give it a try.
    ‘21 Honda Rebel 1100 DTC Burgundy
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Hey Chris. So, let’s clarify some things.

    1. With the engine running, if you wish to open the frunk with the key, just push it in from the ON position, turn it CCW to open the frunk and then release. The key will return to the ON position and the engine remains running the whole time. Try it.

    2. To open the frunk electrically with the switch, you only need the key in ON, and that micro switch operated to tell the circuit the lid is closed. The engine does not have to be running. Even if it was, it doesn’t matter if you’re in gear or in neutral.

    So, try holding down the little arm of the switch manually with your finger while you operate the dash switch. Lid open and key on of course. Make sure you can hear the micro switch clicking when you operate the arm. You’ll be able to tell if the solenoid is operating when you operate the dash switch. Big clunk. You can even close the latch and watch it release. Maybe it needs some lube. Or, you may just need to adjust (bend) the arm on the switch a bit.

    Just looking at fuses is not always reliable. They need to be removed and tested.

    And.... it’s been done before.....brain fart with the dash switch. Operating the parking brake instead.


    Doug

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder View Post
    Hey Chris. So, let’s clarify some things.

    1. With the engine running, if you wish to open the frunk with the key, just push it in from the ON position, turn it CCW to open the frunk and then release. The key will return to the ON position and the engine remains running the whole time. Try it.

    2. To open the frunk electrically with the switch, you only need the key in ON, and that micro switch operated to tell the circuit the lid is closed. The engine does not have to be running. Even if it was, it doesn’t matter if you’re in gear or in neutral.

    So, try holding down the little arm of the switch manually with your finger while you operate the dash switch. Lid open and key on of course. Make sure you can hear the micro switch clicking when you operate the arm. You’ll be able to tell if the solenoid is operating when you operate the dash switch. Big clunk. You can even close the latch and watch it release. Maybe it needs some lube. Or, you may just need to adjust (bend) the arm on the switch a bit.

    Just looking at fuses is not always reliable. They need to be removed and tested.

    And.... it’s been done before.....brain fart with the dash switch. Operating the parking brake instead.
    Thank you for the info. At least I can open the front and keep the engine on now. I know about the front fuse boxes but do I need to look anywhere else? I think I'm going to swap out the fuses just to make sure it's not the fuses or the relays. I think it's the relay. Where will I find it?

  7. #7
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Firstly - Welcome to the Forum & posting ChrisL!

    Now, to your concern.... the switch on the dash for the Frunk is VERY problematic; so much so that I have heard from a number of Dealers (some of whom I trust, too!) that the ongoing issues with them was one of the major reasons that BRP stopped including them on the later model Spyders!!

    Many of these switches fail completely, and because (at least on the 2013's ) they are a combination switch, they aren't cheap to replace, even if you do go aftermarket!! And if they don't fail completely, they tend to become quite religious - you hafta pray really hard every time you try to open the frunk via the switch, and unless you're praying hard enough, forggeddabbowdit!! Still, while it doesn't really help much, the religious switches do tend to work occasionally, just not too often and it does seem to be fairly randomnly, or possibly only as a result of the volume & fervour of your praying!

    So ChrisL, that's probably what's happened to yours - the switch on the dash is no longer working quite the way it should! Some owners have replaced them a few times before giving up, but AFAIK, most just give up on the elec switch as soon as they discover the switches fail to work often and repeatedly, and so they then simply rely on the key 'press & turn CCW' technique, especially once they find out that still works without turning it off/shutting down the engine! A word of warning about that tho - even the key twist method has been known to fail (due to cable slippage &/or breakage, plus it's a bit hard on the key....); so it's a very good idea to fit your own 'in case of emergency release' - it's not too hard, just attach a wire or cable to the release lever & run it out to somewhere secure where you can reach it if necessary & that's not too obvious to everybody else. There's quite a few different approaches shown here on the Forum, some including similar 'safety releases' for the seat (so you can still raise it to fill up with gas!) and a search should bring some of them up - even if you need to duck over to google & add 'site:spyderlovers.com' to the end of your search string - sometimes that'll pick up on your keywords where the site search engine won't.

    Over to you, and Good Luck!
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  8. #8
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    You guys are awesome! Thanks for the extremely informative and helpful responses. So nice to know that I can open the frunk and keep the engine on and one day I will be happy instead of upset when I can't pop the seat or the frunk hood.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    ChrisL, There is also a little fix for these latches on the frunk, seat latch! where some of the guy's have installed emergency release cables on those latches so you can open them up when the switches go bad. If you do a search above there are pictures a video's of the instillations! Good luck
    2012 RTL , Pearl

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