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  1. #1
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    Default GEARBOX; New Torque Spec. in Purchased Manual.

    GEARBOX: The oil level check screw WAS? 133 lbf/in. (11 lbf/ft) I just check my oil level the other day. I was wondering why the copper washer was flattened down so much. It was not cracked or leaking.
    UP TO DATE TORQUE SPEC. is 89 lbf/in. (7.4 lbf/ft)
    The SMALLER drain plug for draining the ENGINE OIL is still 133 lbf/in. (11 lbf/ft)
    Both larger drain plugs are still 22 lbf/ft

  2. #2
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canamryder View Post
    GEARBOX: The oil level check screw WAS? 133 ft/in. (11 ft/lb) I just check my oil level the other day. I was wondering why the copper washer was flattened down so much. It was not cracked or leaking.
    UP TO DATE TORQUE SPEC. is 89 ft/in. (7.4 ft/lb)
    The SMALLER drain plug for draining the ENGINE OIL is still 133 ft/in. (11ft/lb)
    Both larger drain plugs are still 22 ft/lbs
    FWIW, you might consider amending your mentioning of “ft/in.”
    There is no such torque expressed that way.

    If you look again at the manuals spec, the use the term lbf in or lbf ft.

    lbf represents pounds force.
    in represents inch or inches
    ft represents feet

    Converting lbf in = lbin or as commonly stated inch pounds of torque
    Converting lbf ft = lbft or as commonly stated foot pounds of torque.

    I suspect the use lbf since Newtons is a measurement of force, not weight.

    Misunderstanding and thinking lbf as foot pounds will be 12 times more torque when they truly state lbf in.

    All the best with it. I can see more than a few stripped threads on engine cases...

  3. #3
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    I rarely use torque specs. for anything other than heads, or other torque critical fasteners. They will get you in trouble more often than most would expect. The great majority of torque specs. are simply not necessary. I deal with customers all the time who have inadvertently caused themselves a great deal of grief trying to adhere to manufacturer's torque specs on everything from oil filter cap screws to spark plugs. All of which is both unfortunate and completely avoidable.

    The manufacturer gives you specs. But they aren't anywhere around to help when that sicking feeling of a thread tear travels down your torque wrench.

    Prudent hand tightening based on the component and fastener size is, for me, a much better way to go. Tighter is not always better.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 06-20-2020 at 07:41 AM.
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Default And as BajaRon says, torque on Oil Plugs will get you in trouble since

    Torque unless otherwise stated is for DRY clean threads, and the oil drain plugs will always be lubed with oil seeping from the case except for the new assembly.

    If the engine case was rebuilt and threads cleaned with an oil solvent and then dried, the torque might apply. Otherwise at least reduce by 10 to 25% for "lubed" threads, or just tighten until "firm".
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by canamryder View Post
    GEARBOX: The oil level check screw WAS? 133 lbf/in. (11 lbf/ft) I just check my oil level the other day. I was wondering why the copper washer was flattened down so much. It was not cracked or leaking.
    UP TO DATE TORQUE SPEC. is 89 lbf/in. (7.4 lbf/ft)
    The SMALLER drain plug for draining the ENGINE OIL is still 133 lbf/in. (11 lbf/ft)
    Both larger drain plugs are still 22 lbf/ft
    DEFINING Torque Specs. have been corrected. "Thank you" PMK Thread # 2

  6. #6
    Very Active Member EdMat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    I rarely use torque specs. for anything other than heads, or other torque critical fasteners. They will get you in trouble more often than most would expect. The great majority of torque specs. are simply not necessary. I deal with customers all the time who have inadvertently caused themselves a great deal of grief trying to adhere to manufacturer's torque specs on everything from oil filter cap screws to spark plugs. All of which is both unfortunate and completely avoidable.

    The manufacturer gives you specs. But they aren't anywhere around to help when that sicking feeling of a thread tear travels down your torque wrench.

    Prudent hand tightening based on the component and fastener size is, for me, a much better way to go. Tighter is not always better.
    There you go again, trying to insert common sense into the equation. Sadly I think it's quickly being bred out of us.
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