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ST mirror removal
I'm starting a new thread so as not to hijack an existing.
I have looked all over Youtube and can only find "stuff" on RT mirror removal. My STL is a '13. Does anyone know from experience whether they remove the same as an RT? Mine are getting loose and I need to find out why. I know Magic Mirrors won't work but thinking I need to do something before I have a problem.
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Very Active Member
Your more than likely gonna snap some plastic however you try not the most user friendly Remove replace components. When did mine Remove wind deflectors; firm bump downward & another forward. No adjustments available that I know of. Putting back on (usually when plastic clip breaks) dab grease to mount posts Start with bottom two post in first then Aline top & bump in.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
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sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
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FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
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Originally Posted by fulltimer
I'm starting a new thread so as not to hijack an existing.
I have looked all over Youtube and can only find "stuff" on RT mirror removal. My STL is a '13. Does anyone know from experience whether they remove the same as an RT? Mine are getting loose and I need to find out why. I know Magic Mirrors won't work but thinking I need to do something before I have a problem.
I have a 14 STL. If the 13 is the same; Remove wind deflector. Then remove 2 black plastic covers. The mirror is held on by a hook that hangs onto a recess attached to the Spyder, at the top, and 2 studs that push into spring clips on the Spyder, side by side at the bottom. Some where (owner's manual I think), I read that you should then rap sharply on the top of the mirror. NO! If you do you will break the hook or it's recess. Rap up on the bottom outside of the mirror. That will disengage the 2 studs and then you can lift up and disengage the hook. The wiring plug is hooked on. If you unhook it, be sure to hook it back on before reassembling. Otherwise the studs will not go into the springs far enough. I would use spit on the studs. It will go away. oil or grease will make it easier for the studs to come out when you don't want them to. One of your studs may have come out, or you may need to remove the springs and squeeze them together for a tighter fit. Hopefully you do not have a broken hook or recess. Clear as mud? Please let us know what you discover.
Good luck
Roger
2014 ST-L
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Very Active Member
ST Mirror Removal and Replacement
Default ST Mirror Removal and Replacement
Here is info about the ST mirrors that I have collected over time. See the italics near the bottom of the post.
Mirror Removal on ST
I took the left mirror off yesterday. What a pain in the butt. It really isn't that bad except the service manual instructions are just plain wrong.
The first step of removing the 2 allen head screws in the deflector. Remove deflector.
Remove the bottom plastic cover.
Remove the torx screw holding the top plastic cover and remove the cover.
Next service manual instructions is to disconnect the signal light wire. That is wrong that is 2 steps too early and can't be done yet.
The service manual says to push the mirror rearward well that's wrong. You need to lift the outside of the mirror to release the bottom 2 pins from the spring loaded snaps.
When the bottom 2 pins are free lift the whole mirror assembly up to release the top pin.
After mirror assembly is loose disconnect the signal light wire.
Remove the base mounting plate by removing the 4 allen head screws.
Yup the manual is way wrong.
After you remove the deflector, the bottom and top covers... give the mirror a sharp rap straight up. Hit it from the bottom about 2-3 inches out to get some leverage. It will 'bust' loose the two bottom pins from the wire spring type sockets. It will indeed sound like its broken. Then nudge it up a bit more to release the top pin.
When you replace it,
1. slide the top down into the 'V' shaped slot
2. then a firm press in on the bottom will snap the two bottom pins into the spring sockets.
I put anti-seize on the two spring sockets (a tip from Spyderpops - Harvey) which helps them slide in and seems to make removal a bit easier. Did this on the RT mirrors and it made their removal much smoother.
Hope this helps
Last edited by Haze; 06-19-2020 at 07:42 PM.
Reason: Add emphasis
David C
2016 F3T
DIY Garage Door Opener & GPS Mount
Battery tender cable
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Very Active Member
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Haze
ST Mirror Removal and Replacement
Default ST Mirror Removal and Replacement
Here is info about the ST mirrors that I have collected over time. See the italics near the bottom of the post.
Mirror Removal on ST
I took the left mirror off yesterday. What a pain in the butt. It really isn't that bad except the service manual instructions are just plain wrong.
The first step of removing the 2 allen head screws in the deflector. Remove deflector.
Remove the bottom plastic cover.
Remove the torx screw holding the top plastic cover and remove the cover.
Next service manual instructions is to disconnect the signal light wire. That is wrong that is 2 steps too early and can't be done yet.
The service manual says to push the mirror rearward well that's wrong. You need to lift the outside of the mirror to release the bottom 2 pins from the spring loaded snaps.
When the bottom 2 pins are free lift the whole mirror assembly up to release the top pin.
After mirror assembly is loose disconnect the signal light wire.
Remove the base mounting plate by removing the 4 allen head screws.
Yup the manual is way wrong.
After you remove the deflector, the bottom and top covers... give the mirror a sharp rap straight up. Hit it from the bottom about 2-3 inches out to get some leverage. It will 'bust' loose the two bottom pins from the wire spring type sockets. It will indeed sound like its broken. Then nudge it up a bit more to release the top pin.
When you replace it,
1. slide the top down into the 'V' shaped slot
2. then a firm press in on the bottom will snap the two bottom pins into the spring sockets.
I put anti-seize on the two spring sockets (a tip from Spyderpops - Harvey) which helps them slide in and seems to make removal a bit easier. Did this on the RT mirrors and it made their removal much smoother.
Hope this helps
Some of that looks familiar. I think I wrote some of that.
A little upgrade. While the mirrors are off. The clear plastic deflectors alway look like crap because of the dirt and water spots between it and the body panel that can't be cleaned. Mask off everything except the mating surfaces and paint it. When I did it I used plasti-dip because I did know how well it would work out. Worked so well I never changed it. Looks much better.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Agreed with all of this.BUT.....I did not "knock" mine off.I took a wide blade flat screwdriver and put it between the spring loaded holders n twisted it n just pushed em apart and the mirror simply slides out. A bit of grease and they pop right back in.
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Thanks to all. I hope tomorrow I will get some time and tools around to give it a try. Already a surprise. I figured I would have to take off the deflector but didn't realize I had covers to remove also.
I'll report back, or you just might hear me screaming.
How about some best guesses here. The reason I'm doing this at all is both mirrors appear to be getting loose. Some of the fastening components broken???? Or just worn out??? 51K on the clock, mostly 2 up on all kinds of roads.
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Thanks to all for the guidance. I finally got "round tuit' today. When I was taking the mirror itself off, the spring clip from the rear clip fell out. Put it back, cleaned up the plastic as I had it off and popped the mirror back on. Knowing what to do and the order to do it in sure makes these little jobs easier. The mirror definitely felt tighter. I think that rear clip was out and that contributed to the loose mirror. We'll see after the first ryde. That will be a week or two. Have had to send my two front Elkas in for repair as both are leaking. Oh well, it's a hobby.
Thanks again for the coaching.
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