I prefer to do things myself...not just for cost consideration but tinkering is part of the ownership enjoyment...as well as getting better acquainted...and staying busy in retirement.
My dad retired early at age 58 (his dad only lived to 66) and often commented that he did not know how he found time to do everything he wanted before retirement. He lived to 91.
For a simple engine oil change, would a Can Am mechanic take the time to clean the magnetic drain plugs as thoroughly?
Practice raising the clam shell 1st. Ride your Ryker to real low fuel also. It's not tough, but plan on taking your time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mktc...UA4u8X8iDP-qLY
And thanks for posting info....specially on price on where to buy the tools...I might do that soon.
Watched the clam shell lift video. Saw it once before, but did not remember where to find it.
Took notes for each step, but not sure I captured all.
Previously removed engine filter box, hood and glove box (not necessary without locking parking lever).
After that,
3 pins for each lower (kick) panels
Loosen pivot screw (T30) each side
8 screws to separate from frame:
1 each side behind pivot screw
2 more each side towards rear
2 under seat - do not lift by seat
Disconnect air hose by CVT filter, above funnel
What did I miss?
And, yes, best to not lift 40 pounds of fuel!
Did not like to see prop against front of rear fender.
Be good to know max prop length, to be able to precut 2x4.
Watched the clam shell lift video. Saw it once before, but did not remember where to find it.
Took notes for each step, but not sure I captured all.
Previously removed engine filter box, hood and glove box (not necessary without locking parking lever).
After that,
3 pins for each lower (kick) panels
Loosen pivot screw (T30) each side
8 screws to separate from frame:
1 each side behind pivot screw
2 more each side towards rear
2 under seat - do not lift by seat
Disconnect air hose by CVT filter, above funnel
What did I miss?
And, yes, best to not lift 40 pounds of fuel!
Did not like to see prop against front of rear fender.
Be good to know max prop length, to be able to precut 2x4.
The 2 X 4 in picture is 14" long. I used a 16" board the 1st time but that just moved the bracing point back further. On missing anything, you'll find that out while practicing. There is a way to tilt the shell higher, but I hope that is not needed to get to the belt. It involves loosening the steering column clamp, securing (strapping) the fuel tank, and keeping an eye on the fuel lines. I forgot about the fuel in the tank in this picture (until I went to lift it) so I think the 16" board did tilt it a little higher. Oh, don't forget the 2 x T30 down in front under radiator.
Thanks for the info, I have a belt and over 17,000 miles and know I am going to have to change it it soon. I also thought it could be done with just the 8mm bolt so it's good to know before hand.
Thanks for the info, I have a belt and over 17,000 miles and know I am going to have to change it it soon. I also thought it could be done with just the 8mm bolt so it's good to know before hand.
Very interested to learn of belt condition (particularly width) when you do change it.
Also, what type of riding? I would expect much longer belt life cruising, compared to a lot of city start and stop.
Photos encouraged!
Very interested to learn of belt condition (particularly width) when you do change it.
Also, what type of riding? I would expect much longer belt life cruising, compared to a lot of city start and stop.
Photos encouraged!
Ditto's
Dean O
Gran Pa Hoon
Founder San Jose BMW
Builder of the Motorcyclist Cafe Barn and Bunkhouse
Alamogordo, NM
Thanks for the info, I have a belt and over 17,000 miles and know I am going to have to change it it soon. I also thought it could be done with just the 8mm bolt so it's good to know before hand.
It would be a real bummer to tear into the project, lifting the clam shell etc. Then finding out that you need a couple special tools also. What looks like a bolt with end turned down has a spline on it also. I ordered the tools yesterday. I won't need them for awhile though.
I would say well over 90 percent of my miles are freeway speeds. Another thing it is very cool where I live, we have only hit 65 degrees once this year so far. But I do admit I get a little nervous about the long trips I take, most are 200 miles or more.
It would be a real bummer to tear into the project, lifting the clam shell etc. Then finding out that you need a couple special tools also. What looks like a bolt with end turned down has a spline on it also. I ordered the tools yesterday. I won't need them for awhile though.
Yes, prep is a large percentage of a project.
From the video clip, I cannot figure out why the 8 mm, 1.25 pitch bolt has the special tip.
It appears to go against the aluminum hub, with something to protect the hub, such as a coin.
I may buy that at a hardware store and then buy BRP for the other part.
I would say well over 90 percent of my miles are freeway speeds. Another thing it is very cool where I live, we have only hit 65 degrees once this year so far. But I do admit I get a little nervous about the long trips I take, most are 200 miles or more.
Sportster belt changes can be done relatively easily on the road, but I would not be pleased to change the CVT belt on the road.
With cooler weather and longer rides, I would not be surprised if your belt could go 20,000 miles or more.
It appears that the 708 200 720 "driven pully adapter" should be the same price at a Can Am dealer as on-line sources: $26.99.
My closest dealer (Rancho Powersports) stocks it for $30.33.
The dealer where I purchased the Ryker stocks it for $30.71 including taxes (~$28.37 without)
Lookiing at this PDF of a Can Am CVT manual, which is NOT our transmission, but nonetheless quite informative, I see no reason to not use a standard 8 mm, 1.25 pitch bolt, at least 50 mm long. Somewhere I read 80 mm, so I will go for longer.
How did the belt change go?? No video's yet and I'm getting close. I can buy the special tools and spend 3 afternoons if I need to BUT will the bike run with the new belt without BUDS2 code clearing??? If I can drive to the dealer (8) miles away to have them cleared!
Cvt Belt Replacement
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Originally Posted by SportsterDoc
) so I think the 16" board did tilt it a little higher. Oh, don't forget the 2 x T30 down in front under radiator.
