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  1. #26
    Member stocktoy's Avatar
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    Ok so another member (bcer960) with a similar bike to mine had ball joints done and it wasn't covered by the warranty. All I can say is WOW I've been a mechanic (both car and heavy truck) for 40 years and ball joints were always covered under warranty I guess Spyder warranty is different ( I know Can Am ATV warranty is lousy - from experience)

    Do to weather and other commitments I haven't got to checking my ball joints yet hopefully tomorrow (Thursday)

  2. #27
    Very Active Member bcer960's Avatar
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    Where in Canada are you from Stocktoy? I live in Kamloops B.C.

    2017 RT-S

    Bump Skid - Spyderpops
    Wrap - Wrapmyspyder
    swaybar - Bajaron
    Sena 20D & SM10
    3 PC Mesh Zippered Lid Net Set - TricLED
    A arm LED's - Safety LED's - TricLED
    Mirror Sequential turn signals
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    Light Up - Sue Hopper

  3. #28
    Member stocktoy's Avatar
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    I live (now) in a small town called Waubaushene Ontario. Used to live in Toronto. See lots of Sypder's around here however the local dealer told me there is no rider group up this way.

  4. #29
    Very Active Member bcer960's Avatar
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    ok, a little too far to meet..... especially this year.

    2017 RT-S

    Bump Skid - Spyderpops
    Wrap - Wrapmyspyder
    swaybar - Bajaron
    Sena 20D & SM10
    3 PC Mesh Zippered Lid Net Set - TricLED
    A arm LED's - Safety LED's - TricLED
    Mirror Sequential turn signals
    Glo-riders
    LED rear turn signals and reverse lights
    Front Grills
    Third Brake light
    Larson Scanner
    Light Up - Sue Hopper

  5. #30
    Member stocktoy's Avatar
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    lol that's for sure. Was hoping to make it to Spyderquest in Lake George NY in Sept this year however that's not going to happen this year.

  6. #31
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    To add. My 2017 had to have upper ball joints last year and i just found out I need a right tie rod. Bad bunch of components? I have 23455 Km on at this point. There is no need of this on an expensive machine. My mechanic said he has replaced a number of ball joints on the 17-18 year spiders.

  7. #32
    Very Active Member bcer960's Avatar
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    for info, I had about 40,000 kms on mine when I had it replaced

    2017 RT-S

    Bump Skid - Spyderpops
    Wrap - Wrapmyspyder
    swaybar - Bajaron
    Sena 20D & SM10
    3 PC Mesh Zippered Lid Net Set - TricLED
    A arm LED's - Safety LED's - TricLED
    Mirror Sequential turn signals
    Glo-riders
    LED rear turn signals and reverse lights
    Front Grills
    Third Brake light
    Larson Scanner
    Light Up - Sue Hopper

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    Ps: if it turns out it IS actually the ball joints, for a bit more cash one of our local reputable techs has sourced some race-spec replacements out of Austria, so the freight to you shouldn't be quite so much as it is to bring them half way around the World to Australia! They are substantially more robust than the OE parts....
    Hi Peter. Have you got more info on these superior ball joints you could share?
    Eckhard

    Spyder RT Ltd, 2011
    2011 RT Ltd. , Pearl White

  9. #34
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eckhard View Post
    Hi Peter. Have you got more info on these superior ball joints you could share?
    Sure do! Bearing in mind that what I've linked is just ONE of the ball joints they offer (so don't be fazed if the necessary part number turns out to be different for your machine!) and that you might need to search/research a bit & then check thru their site to source the correct ball-joint for your year/model Spyder/Ryker (yes, they even have some BJ's that'll suit Rykers! ) here's the 'other post' with all the Supplier info in it:

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    The part number for the (upper) Ball joint is JP0048 from https://www.jay-parts.com in Austria - a direct link to the Upper Ball Joint is here:

    https://www.jay-parts.com/en/?s=JP0048

    Last time the fella here in Australia got one, it took a couple of weeks to be delivered half way round the World, and it cost a fair few Euro each, plus there was a single 20% 'credit card fee' on the transaction, so I doubt they're actually any cheaper than the BRP Ball Joints up front, but we've had quite a few people here in Oz having to replace the BRP rubbish ball-joints every 5000 km or so, and these things look and feel WAAAYYYY better in their construction, so the claimed '200% stronger than the original' doesn't seem to be unreasonable, and they've already lasted more than twice as long as the crappy BRP pieces of kit!

    So for those having ball joint issues, I reckon these'll prove to be a fair bit cheaper in the long run!

    It seems that you can Buy quality parts, and only Buy once - but if you Buy BRP parts, you'll likely Buy often!

    Good Luck!

    PS: for those Aussies interested, the bloke here in Oz who sourced these parts and is doing some real quality work on Spyders & Rykers is a fella called Stu, from Charles Street Auto Repairs in Unley, SOUTH AUSTRALIA - he doesn't claim to be a Spyder/Ryker Expert, but he is a Spyder Ryder himself and is interested enough to give it a go & has a lot of pride in his work... IMHO, deservedly so!! . He might not be the quickest at turning stuff around, but he doesn't pad his prices to cover his learning curve or the times he's waiting for parts etc, and he really does do quality work and pays a LOT of attention to the details & making sure he's getting it all working right!! . And he does everything from changing tires, doing laser wheel alignments, thru replacing buggered DPS units, and sorting problems the local Can-Am Dealers have either created or given up on!! Those who've been able to give him the time to do the work required have, AFAIK, ALL been more than happy with everything he's done, some (most?) even feeling that they've taken in a lemon of a BRP machine and they've got back from him a Spyder that feels, rydes, and even looks like a brand new Spyder SHOULD!!

    BTW, I have no interest in this business, financial or otherwise, but I have seen the quality of the work he does and I wouldn't/don't hesitate to recommend him to anyone who is prepared to give him the time/opportunity to fix their Spyder/Ryker PROPERLY!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-26-2020 at 02:27 PM.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  10. #35
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Wouldn't it be nice if we could get a quality part like these that is made in America????? Wonder where BRP sources ball joints as I'm quite sure that they don't make them at BRP.
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  11. #36
    Member stocktoy's Avatar
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    Ok so I had a few minutes to check the front end on my bike and found only the left side had any play in it and it appears to be the top one only.

    So I will look into buying and replacing the worn parts shortly.

    thanks to all that commented on this topic.

    Richard

  12. #37
    Member stocktoy's Avatar
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    Update: so I got four ball joints for my bike and they come out real easy once the bike is off the ground ( I bought a ball joint removal/installer tool) and already have a Pitbull lift for other bikes I own. I just have to get some thin wall pipe (probably exhaust pipe) to install as the tool doesn't have the right pieces) then I will have to find a place to align it I guess (after I give it a good road test)

  13. #38
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stocktoy View Post
    Update: so I got four ball joints for my bike and they come out real easy once the bike is off the ground ( I bought a ball joint removal/installer tool) and already have a Pitbull lift for other bikes I own. I just have to get some thin wall pipe (probably exhaust pipe) to install as the tool doesn't have the right pieces) then I will have to find a place to align it I guess (after I give it a good road test)
    I don't know if Home Depot or Lowe's is in Canada, but both sell " thin wall " electrical conduit" ( someone must sell it ) - I've seen sizes up to 1 1/4 inches in diameter... I used it for part of the frame ( it bolts to rear half of the body so I can open it with Elec struts ) on my 917 Porsche project ... ... Mike

  14. #39
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I don't know if Home Depot or Lowe's is in Canada, but both sell " thin wall " electrical conduit" ( someone must sell it ) - I've seen sizes up to 1 1/4 inches in diameter... I used it for part of the frame ( it bolts to rear half of the body so I can open it with Elec struts ) on my 917 Porsche project ... ... Mike
    Hey Mike you got some cool toys!! Have you ever done any autocross with that Porsche? Friend of mine had a 350Z got me into it, loads of fun!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  15. #40
    Member stocktoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I don't know if Home Depot or Lowe's is in Canada, but both sell " thin wall " electrical conduit" ( someone must sell it ) - I've seen sizes up to 1 1/4 inches in diameter... I used it for part of the frame ( it bolts to rear half of the body so I can open it with Elec struts ) on my 917 Porsche project ... ... Mike
    Thanks Mike, I got a piece of exhaust pipe ( adaptor) and had a shop cut off the larger end and now its just to get time...

  16. #41
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    Hey Mike you got some cool toys!! Have you ever done any autocross with that Porsche? Friend of mine had a 350Z got me into it, loads of fun!!
    Well the " 917 " is still in progress .... I'm 73 and slowing down, and since re-discovering " down-hill skiing 2 yrs ago .... my winter " free time " has been directed to skiing ( it keeps me young ) ..... I bought the 917 from someone who got rid of the VW engine and changed the frame to accept a Chevy V-8 and Audi transaxle .... It looked good in pics, however I discovered it wasn't going to work in reality.... the seat backs were 30 inches from the dashboard and the engine was still sticking out between the front seats .... annnnnnnnnnd no access to the engine without re-moving the entire body .... I have resolved the Body issue , and am working on the new front sub-frame with independent front suspension ..... you can Google " Lazer 917 " ( Elite Enterprises ) and see what I started with ..... Mike

  17. #42
    Member stocktoy's Avatar
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    Well I got all the (4) ball joints changed out not long to do all totaled about 3 hrs its amazing how to you get used to something not realizing its not right.
    Never dawned on me my bike wandered. However after changing out the ball joints and taking the bike for a good hour ride what a difference in the way it handles and feels on the road.

    I'm not sure all bj's needed to be changed at this time however I had it apart so I did them all.

  18. #43
    Very Active Member bcer960's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stocktoy View Post
    I'm not sure all bj's needed to be changed at this time however I had it apart so I did them all.
    I did them all when one went as well, figured, if one is gone, the rest may not be far behind

    2017 RT-S

    Bump Skid - Spyderpops
    Wrap - Wrapmyspyder
    swaybar - Bajaron
    Sena 20D & SM10
    3 PC Mesh Zippered Lid Net Set - TricLED
    A arm LED's - Safety LED's - TricLED
    Mirror Sequential turn signals
    Glo-riders
    LED rear turn signals and reverse lights
    Front Grills
    Third Brake light
    Larson Scanner
    Light Up - Sue Hopper

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