Wanting to be able to strap a small bag (~6x14”) and/or a light weight jacket onto the rear fender, I ordered four black oxide footman’s loops, to mount directly to the plastic fender. Load is not expected to be more than two, perhaps three pounds.
Holes are 1 1/4 inches from the edge of the fender, which fits between structural ribs and are 6 1/8 inches apart going across the fender.
Preparing to use 5 mm flat head screws the holes were drilled to 3/16 inch...allowing enough interference for the screws to thread into the plastic to better hold them in place while adding a washer and then a lock nut.
The second hole for each loop will be drilled after the loops are mounted through the first hole.
I enjoy custom modifications and want to keep the Ryker more sporty, rather than adding touring luggage.
This should be much easier than what I did on the Moto Guzzi:
Have you thought about when you go over any bumps? That area above the plastic fender is clearance for the the rear swing arm. Anything mounted to it could get crushed or impede your shock travel.
Have you thought about when you go over any bumps? That area above the plastic fender is clearance for the the rear swing arm. Anything mounted to it could get crushed or impede your shock travel.
Thank you for your concern
1. There is nothing over the rear fender, with a solo seat.
2. Clearances were a consideration for the Moto Guzzi, including opening without contacting mufflers.
The Ryker rear fender mounted to the swing arm drive shaft & rear wheel. The Guzzi rear fender is mounted to the frame...
I mounted the Pelican cases to the frame of the Goose. They were extremely rigid.
My point, or attempted point, is that all clearances and stresses were carefully considered before proceeding with the mod.
Lotsa older 'bikes used to do just that... (think WLA Harley - IIRC the carry rack & rear panniers were all fender mounted?!?) I don't see why it would be too much of an issue for lightweight gear, or hard to do for that matter?!
Be interested to see pics of it being done, as well as the final result!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-03-2020 at 09:01 PM.
Loops arrived and installed.
Not much clearance under fender, but sufficient to install SST fender washers and locknuts.
Well done. My only worry is the threaded side of the bolt is near the tire and will get dirty and difficult to remove.
I think I would have flipped the bolts around and had the nuts facing up. Then use castle nuts on the threads to keep it clean looking.
Well done. My only worry is the threaded side of the bolt is near the tire and will get dirty and difficult to remove.
I think I would have flipped the bolts around and had the nuts facing up. Then use castle nuts on the threads to keep it clean looking.
Footman loops are designed for flat head screws (3mm hex bit-Allen)
Do not expect to ever remove, but if necessary, spray cleaner and old toothbrush would remove dirt for access by 8mm box wrench.
Fasteners (screws, fender washers & lock nuts) are all stainless steel.
i was skeptical of this when i first saw you trying it. looks pretty good tho
Thank you, but this was not much of a challenge. The last 20 years of my different careers was industrial automation (systems integrator-automation house). When I retired 3 years ago, at age 70, the most difficult aspect of retirement was leaving a complete machine shop.
Hi SportsterDoc ref plc of bolts , the threads should have been cut flush with castellated nuts , you need a much clearance as possible, but it’s a nice idea and well done regards nico75
Hi SportsterDoc ref plc of bolts , the threads should have been cut flush with castellated nuts , you need a much clearance as possible, but it’s a nice idea and well done regards nico75
Considering that the fender does not move in relation to the tire, 19 mm of minimum clearance to tip of screw seems adequate and removing 1-2 mm not worth tire removal.
Screws are A-2 (A2-70) stainless, so filing or cutting with hacksaw would not be easy with tire in place.
To grind off protrusion would require tire removal and heat generated may affect the nylon insert in the locking nuts.
Consider attaching two pieces of round stock to the two holes directly under your seat. I did it using 1/2 inch emt and fabricated a bolt up system thru the existing holes. I works slick holding a small carry-on piece of luggage.
I did consider a custom rack attached to the seat, but since a machine shop is no longer at my disposal, decided I would not be satisfied and it would endup in the recycle bin. Meanwhile the loop and strap arrangement is suitably versatile.
Leaving the jacket in place is not only helpful if weather changes in the mountains, but also serves as a cushion for strapping down other items.