Various wiring questions

[MONK]

2018 RTL

I'm about to embark on a wiring disaster (er....project) and need some assistance/suggestions before I begin. Have a few electronic gizmos on the bike now and plan to add a few more before I'm done so I think it's time to add a fuse block. Currently, I have my phone w/a USB cable run to the frunk connection. This works but I'm considering hard wiring in a power connection as I never use the BRP Connect (and personally think it's not ready for prime time....maybe on my next Spyder). I have an XM receiver already hard wired into the OEM fuse box. Impossible to get the fuse box cover to stay on. I just picked up a Garmin 660 GPS and need to hard wire that, too. I have plans to add a few more lights, LEDs, etc to the bike and want a good place to plug them in without overloading something and/or catching the bike on fire (which is probably what will happen anyway).

I read https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ribution-block (very informative but a little confusing to me). I'd like things to be as plug-n-play as possible for 2 reasons. First, I don't have a garage. The less time spent with the bike torn apart, the better as I can't just leave body panels off, frunk open, etc if it rains. Second, I'm not good at fabricating things. Running wires here and there is one thing. I see INfox used the FZ-1 fuse box which looks like it has an integrated relay. Pretty expensive @ just under 100 bones. Is there something else that is similar for less green? I think (and I could very well be wrong), someone mentioned using some accessory plug buried behind the frunk for switched power. I've read that it's difficult to get to and that (maybe) the entire front end has to be removed to access this. (Why in the heck would BRP add an accessory plug that's impossible to get to???) I'm NOT removing the front end of the bike. Just not gonna happen. Is there another way to access this or is there a better place to get switched power for the relay? Is there a good place to run all of these wires from the dash, etc into the frunk? I've got a couple wires running over the top of the frunk (where the snaps are for the liner). That's NOT a good permanent solution.

Finally (and this seems like a stretch), is there anyone in my area (anywhere within a couple hour ride of northwestern NC) who has done this before and would like to earn a little bit of money either doing the job or at least walking me through the job? (Your garage, your tools, your knowledge, my labor) I'd be willing to pay someone but I'm NOT paying the shop $100/hr to do this. I'll muddle through it before I do that.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm getting stressed out just thinking about this as I really don't know what I'm doing and I'd like to plug in my GPS, etc.

TIA
HAGO!

[Woodaddict]

2018 RTL

I just picked up a Garmin 660 GPS and need to hard wire that, too. I have plans to add a few more lights, LEDs, etc to the bike and want a good place to plug them in without overloading something and/or catching the bike on fire (which is probably what will happen anyway).

you should have got the wire harness with the 660. under seat near fuel tank, right side, will be the harness that a gps can plug into. power and audio that will put directions into the speakers. if your not in a hurry, after mid July when I get moved in to new house, I can help you at my house. if your putting gps on the dash like mine, I would have to make you a block from gps to the JT bar

here is some comments that I even have some posts in this thread , that helped me
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...light=gps+dash

[PMK]

As a general suggestion, be very much aware of how you route your wire harnesses. You must ensure that removal of the modules can be accomplished without cutting wires or pulling wires back.

If you route the harnesses not following existing harnesses, and not installing connector at oem factory locations, when you need service work, the dealership will charge additional time above quoted flat rate hours to unwire your stuff, or they will cut and cap the wires at your expense. Planning ahead will save a lot of aggravation later.

[YIRYDE]

I would highly suggest paying to have this done by a business that performs custom wiring of motorcycles, since you are not familiar with this task. You don’t want to do something that could cause a wiring malfunction to your Spyder and as a worse case cause a electrical fire. I know we want to save money and attempt to perform our own modifications but some things it’s best to let the professionals do it.

[Steve W.]

I know we want to save money and attempt to perform our own modifications but some things it’s best to let the professionals do it.

On the other hand, "professional" does not mean they are good at it, only that they are paid to do it.

[Stache]

On the other hand, "professional" does not mean they are good at it, only that they are paid to do it.

While true, if you pay someone to do the work and they botch the job you have at least the possibility or redress. If you do it yourself and botch it you’re on your own.

[MONK]

My thought is (and I'm probably dead wrong), if I were to buy an FZ-1 fuse blocks (or equivalent), I could run a total of (3) wires (hot, ground, switched) then just hook up the wires from the phone, GPS, etc and call it a day. I'd have to find that accessory wiring or another switched wire and I'd have to figure out a good place to access the frunk but I think (maybe) I could do it if I took my time. I'd still rather have someone else with some more knowledge/tools/etc to at least work w/me. We'll see. My confidence level is pretty low.

[triplethreat]

On the other hand, "professional" does not mean they are good at it, only that they are paid to do it.

Kind of like the definition of an "expert"..........Someone from out of town and usually carrying a briefcase and sometimes wearing a suit!

[olsarge]

Kind of like the definition of an "expert"..........Someone from out of town and usually carrying a briefcase and sometimes wearing a suit!

I always thought an expert was a has been drip under pressure.

[Gwolf]

Yeah, small wiring projects............

[ozarkryder]

Hey, Monk - I'm the one who posted the DIY fuze block in the frunk. I also added a Spyderpops bumpskid and a Spyderpops rear lighting kit. The Spyderpops stuff is a plug and ply to the OEM harness with original style connectors, and designed to work with the Nanny on our machines.

The frunk doesn't have to come off to find the consumer auxiliary connections, they are just behind a rubber plug to the right of the battery compartment.(as you are looking into the frunk from the front). The wires I added run up behind the frunk, along the frame and to the switch panel in the cockpit and another along the frame again to the rear for passenger heated gear or other 12v accessories.

Someone mentioned shops cutting wires, very good point. On my setup if the frunk has to come off the wires unplug from the fusebox and stay with the frame. Easy to re-route, every thing goes to the same location - the rubber covered hole in the rear frunk wall. I just let a tech know its there, maybe adds 15 minutes to the bill.

If you don't want to make a fusebox yourself (but is is just 2 seperate components for less than half the price of pre-made) here is one from Electrical Connection for about $70 - https://electricalconnection.com/ind...te-fuse-block/

And here is CoachBob3 that has a video that added a rocker switch to the switch panel with out the power plate- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8I7q00fnVA8 The routing of wires is the same to the cockpit if you put in a power plate/fuseblock or just the one accessory. Note that with my set up I use the powered wires behind the frunk to energize the relay that turns on the power to the fusebox, not to actually run power to accessories. That power comes directly from the battery.

Feel free to send an email or PM if you have questions.