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Thread: Rear tire fix

  1. #1
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    Default Rear tire fix

    Hello, I’m new to the forum But I have a 2019 Spyder RT limited with 1700 miles that has a big honking screw in the back tire, what a bummer for my first Spyder. My question is has anyone ever plug patched one of these tires from the inside out, or is that not recommended Period? Also how involved is it to remove the rear tire on one of these spyders? I am pretty mechanically inclined but never worked on one of these, try to do a lot of my own work. Can any of you experienced owners give me some helpful tips? Anything would be greatly appreciated.
    Thx
    Bob

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Hi Bob,

    IMHO a patch plug is to get you home, then replace the tire. Were it a 2 wheel motorcycle, I'll bet you would replace it soonest----- same here. There are youtube videos on how to remove the rear tire on a . DON'T forget to undo the little leveling lever on the left side of the swingarm Good time to move up to an auto tire---- there is a days worth of reading on which tire to choose. I run a General Altimax and am quite happy with it.

    Good luck, Lew L
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Being it's a Kenda tire I would probably replace it.
    2016 F3 Limited
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    2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
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    2016 F 3 Limited , Vegas White

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman2013 View Post
    Being it's a Kenda tire I would probably replace it.
    ....although if you remove the tire and have it patched using the " vulcanize " method I might consider keeping..... and if it was Any auto tire I would definitely keep it after Vulcanizing ..... I 've had at least a dozen tires patched using the Vulcanize method ..... None ever leaked not even with the weight of a Cadillac...... Comparing the weight load of a Spyder to a Car .... the Spyder is way less ... so the stress is way less .... plus Spyder tires are Auto tires - Kenda's are just very weak auto tires ...... Mike

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    Active Member FlyBoy2121's Avatar
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    I bmlm
    You can vulcanize a patch, if the hole is close to the center of the tire.

    But the Kenda is not a good tire, I would replace it, it would be better.

    FlyBoy2121
    2014 RT ltd , original original Cognac

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    Thx for the information I greatly appreciate.

  7. #7
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Removing the rear wheel is very easy:
    Jack up, put a jack stand under. Chock the front wheels.
    Use a 5/8” deep well 3/8” drive rachet to remove the caliper. Two bolts, it’s free. Support with a bungee cord. Use a 36mm socket on a 1/2” drive ratchet wrench, while holding the other side with a 12” crescent, or, a 36mm ratcheting box wrench. ( my favorite!) loosen axle nut after removing the cotter pin. Support the wheel on a jack, and remove the axle. Slide the wheel forward, remove the belt. Lower the wheel, roll forward off the jack, remove jack, roll out wheel. Done!! R/R tire with a General RT43, and put it back on. Yank the muffler off (2bolts) to make getting the axle thru easier. Wire brush the caliper bolts for fresh locktite. I’m doing one Friday. SpyderAnn and I can get one off in 21-25 minutes. We practice: like 100 times!
    If you get stuck, call. I’ll walk you thru it! Joe
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptjam View Post
    Removing the rear wheel is very easy:
    Jack up, put a jack stand under. Chock the front wheels.
    Use a 5/8” deep well 3/8” drive rachet to remove the caliper. Two bolts, it’s free. Support with a bungee cord. Use a 36mm socket on a 1/2” drive ratchet wrench, while holding the other side with a 12” crescent, or, a 36mm ratcheting box wrench. ( my favorite!) loosen axle nut after removing the cotter pin. Support the wheel on a jack, and remove the axle. Slide the wheel forward, remove the belt. Lower the wheel, roll forward off the jack, remove jack, roll out wheel. Done!! R/R tire with a General RT43, and put it back on. Yank the muffler off (2bolts) to make getting the axle thru easier. Wire brush the caliper bolts for fresh locktite. I’m doing one Friday. SpyderAnn and I can get one off in 21-25 minutes. We practice: like 100 times!
    If you get stuck, call. I’ll walk you thru it! Joe
    Thanks for all the detail great information for a newbee.

  9. #9
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    Sorry to be the one to throw cold water. I have ridden several miles in the process of wearing out 4 Gold Wings and various other machines. If you install a rope plug correctly it will last the life of the tire. In the center of the tread on the rear it is completely safe. Worst thing that could happen would be another flat as the air slowly leaks out. No big deal there.

  10. #10
    Active Member Wahrsuul's Avatar
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    I'll have to agree - I've used the sticky rope plugs on both cars and two-wheeled bikes with no issues. Never swapped out a tire just because of a plug. I've moved up to the mushroom plugs now and treat them the same way.
    2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
    2014 RT-S , Orange

  11. #11
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    I also have plugged alot of tires. No issues. Best of luck on which way you go. Bruce
    New to Sue and I
    2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
    Gone but not forgotten
    RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles


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