2011 RT Brake Failure

[traderbobnc]

After all the shenanigans with changing the oil and filter and air filter and putting more coolant in the overflow and breaking into the Frunk... and destroying the Frunk release cable and retrieving lost screws... she is all put together and test fired to make sure oil is showing up on the dipstick.
FINALLY!!! Time for a ride.
Then there is this: Brake Failure
2011 CanAm RT with 15000 miles on the clock...
A brake failure?
Really?
The brakes seem really solid to me.
No weakness front or rear.
No squealing.
Solid stops!
No noises... no squishy pedals
What next?
brake.jpg

Fresh(ish) battery less than a year old.
Been on a Battery Tender since new.
It was on the Tender just before starting it after the world stopping oil change.
Brake fluid reservoirs are full and the fluid looks pretty clean for 15000 miles of riding.
brake 2.jpg
The tips on this forum suggest a problem with the low pressure switch.
I've been through the LPS reset
Brake Lights work fine
brake 3.jpg
What is left? Tow it to the Stealership and have them reset the BUDS?
I'm sure that ain't cheap.
'course there is the option where I just ride it and hope it doesn't kill me when the brakes do fail.

[GOZFST]

This is a very frequent occurence, even though the brake fluid level looks good, add about 2 tablespoons and chances are the warning will go away. Good luck.

[traderbobnc]

Just like that... without doing anything... I went for a little 5 mile ride and she is fine - no warning lights - no weird brake behavior. I can see this bike and I are going to be at odds over a few things if she keeps this up - She's "almost" as bad as a Woman... If Men are from Mars, and Women are from Venus, then bikes must be from Uranus... or some other such nonsensical place.
I believe you.
You all certainly know way more than me.
It would be stupid of me to question or disagree about things which I have no experience.
I'll add the two tablespoons if that'll make her happy.
Question though: I have a half empty bottle of probably 20 year old NAPA DOT4 laying around. Do you think she'd be pissed if I used that, or should I get some BRP brake fluid from the Stealership? DOT 3, 4, or 5?
Thanks for the quick response.
b.l.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Judging by your pictures, the floats of the sensors appear to be adequately above the outer ring of the sensor. Plus all of your warning lights are cleared. Probably no need to add anything. Brake fluid spec is DOT 4 - as stated in your owners manual. Of course it doesn't have to be BRP brake fluid - any DOT 4 trusted brand will do - but you probably shouldn't use 20 year old brake fluid in anything, anymore. Why don't you properly dispose of that stuff. If you get another brake failure in the near future, try pulling up a code. Go ride. Be safe. Stay well.

[SpyderAnn01]

As brake pads wear your fluid level drops so your pads may be in need of replacement.

[traderbobnc]

Thanks for the info. You guys are the best! I'll take your advice and dispose of the old stuff and get new... just in case.
Can I ask what you mean by pulling a code and how might a neophyte go about doing that?

[Grandpot]

Bob, with the key on, press the MODE, SET, and TURN SIGNAL (push straight in) at the same time. If there is an active code, it will show up.

[TicketBait]

Bob, with the key on, press the MODE, SET, and TURN SIGNAL (push straight in) at the same time. If there is an active code, it will show up.

And when you get that code post it here and we can tell you what the issue is. I have a spyderCodes app that still works, but believe it is no longer offered. Many others here also have it too.

[LongIsland]

You should fresh brake fluid, 20 years is way too old.

[8.1pwr]

And when you get that code post it here and we can tell you what the issue is. I have a spyderCodes app that still works, but believe it is no longer offered. Many others here also have it too.

My brake failure light came on the other day riding down the road. I checked the fluid level, it didn't look low but I added some. Light still on. I tried the key on push the brake pedal really hard. Light still on. I saw how to check the code and my code is C1282. I tried to look online and it came up as a yaw sensor. TicketBait can you look up and see what that code is? I can't find anything online about it or where it's located, but the search comes up with a part for a Can-am.
Thanks

[Grandpot]

C1282 VCM Brake failure (low Possible hydraulic pressure. Check hydraulic brake circuit for a brake circuit leak.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey 8.1. As Grandpot said, it's not the yaw sensor. What is going on is that your brake pedal travelled far enough to actuate the Low Pressure Switch WITHOUT there being adequate pressure in the brake system. Could be a one off. Could be a leak or bad master cylinder. Could just be that you need to bleed / flush your brake system. Routine maintenance item.

If you think the brake pedal is firm and there are no leaks. Then try and reset the fault.
Turn the key on and wait until it fully boots up.
Press down hard on the brake pedal and hold it. HARD.
Turn the key off and wait until it completely shuts down. Wait 30 seconds just to be sure.
Only then release the brake pedal.
The fault should be cleared the next power up. If not try again.

If the fault continues and there are no leaks, then try a system bleed.

[8.1pwr]

Hey 8.1. As Grandpot said, it's not the yaw sensor. What is going on is that your brake pedal travelled far enough to actuate the Low Pressure Switch WITHOUT there being adequate pressure in the brake system. Could be a one off. Could be a leak or bad master cylinder. Could just be that you need to bleed / flush your brake system. Routine maintenance item.

If you think the brake pedal is firm and there are no leaks. Then try and reset the fault.
Turn the key on and wait until it fully boots up.
Press down hard on the brake pedal and hold it. HARD.
Turn the key off and wait until it completely shuts down. Wait 30 seconds just to be sure.
Only then release the brake pedal.
The fault should be cleared the next power up. If not try again.

If the fault continues and there are no leaks, then try a system bleed.

Thanks Snowbelt Spyder your step by step instructions worked. I followed them and the light is now off. Thanks again

[traderbobnc]

Well... I dribbled a little more fresh BRP brake fluid in both the reservoirs... just to be sure... in advance of a planned long trip. Even took it for a NC safety inspection. Of course it passed inspection with no problems. But NC isn’t real particular about motorcycle safety. One wonders why they even bother; but that’s a rant for some other time. The brake failure warning was missing... so I‘M guessing the gremlin has been vanquished.

Put about 250 miles on it, and low and behold the warning light comes on. Now what do I do? Too far from home. Don’t want to get it towed. Brakes seem fine in spite of the warning. Tried to perform the LPS reset a couple of times... no good! The warning persists. So I drove it the rest of the day. I have a 4 hour trip home tomorrow. I’m going to pull a code in the morning and post it before I leave. If I don’t make it home... it’s been fun.

[Mikey]

Try putting just a little more in, the switch in those tanks are touchy little bugga's!!!good luck

[safecracker]

I agree with Mikey. I have found that going up hill and on flat ground that the light does not come on but i go down a hill it will. I also have found that riding double it will not come on, when my wife gets off the light will come on. As stated above add a bit more it should stop light from coming on.

[traderbobnc]

Pulled the code:
C1282
Brake failure low pressure detected
No leaks that I can see
Then again, I’m no mechanic
Trying a LPS reset again
brake1.jpgbrake2.jpgbrake3.jpgbrake4.jpg

[ulflyer]

My '11 RT had a chronic problem with rust on the two rear brake pins that the pads slide on. The pads would close when brake was applied, but not open back up. Nanny would have a fit. Took several trips to dealer before that problem was discovered. Might give those a look and check pad thickness while you're at it. Happened twice in 12K miles.

https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...lic-brake-rear