Overheating problem on 2014 RTS

[thunor]

End of last year and start of this season I have been having overheat problems when idling. Fan kicks on but it appears to not be cooling it off enough as the Overheat light will come on. Zero signs of
any leakage anywhere. I am scheduling my springtime oil change and will probably get them to look at and fix it. This is only a problem when idling still or cruising at 5 mph or so. RTS is about to break
39,000 miles. Was a 2014 leftover bought in the summer of 2015 so I have put a lot of travel into it. Hoping to get a lot more out of it still. Looking in the book it shows that the filler/level indicator is
supposed to be behind a panel in my frunk but where it shows a rivet connector to open to get to it I have a fuse panel cover(right and left). Below those it has torx screws to open the next lower panel so
it is not the indicated rivet. What am I missing(no jokes please, lol). Not ready to trade up yet as I want to buy new when I go south in another year or so.

Thanks for any directions to look at with this.

[ARtraveler]

Check to see if you have a good seal on the radiator cap. We had overheating on on 2011 and that turned out to be the solution. Just tighten the cap.

[JayBros]

Shine a flashlight into your grills and you will be able to see if you have an accumulation of bugs on the radiators. If you've been riding in big bug country that could be the problem.

If you open your frunk and remove the right side black plastic panel with a laptop embossed on it and held in place with one push pin you will see the coolant tank. You can also see the lower portion of the tank by looking upward from behind the right wheel shock absorber. If you then shine a flashlight on the coolant tank from below you can see the coolant level in the tank.

Did you have the coolant changed at 28,000 miles? The service schedule says 28K or five years, whichever comes first.

If you find excessive bugs in the radiators, after you get them cleaned out go to Spyderpops and order a set of KOTT (Keep Out The Trash) Grilles. They are the best method to keep radiators clean and they add a touch of class to the look of your Spyder.

[thunor]

I will check out both when I get home from work. Thanks. Been out of warranty for a bit now but if due
a coolant change then probably a good time to do it.

[Navydad]

I believe the RT has two cooling fans. Are both fans operating?

[davev1pa]

Following

[Peter Aawen]

I will check out both when I get home from work. Thanks. Been out of warranty for a bit now but if due
a coolant change then probably a good time to do it.

Only if you do the drain, flush, refill bit yourself, DO NOT try to open the drain tap!! They've been known to seize & when twisted in an attempt to open, snap right outta the tank!

Undo the bottom rad hose instead!

[safecracker]

I have found the easiest way to unscrew and add fluid is to remove the tupperware around the headlights. This gives you more room. You do have to remove mirrors and wind deflectors and upper side panels. Bruce

[SpyderAnn01]

Jay has a good suggestion, on my 14 RTS I had overheating issues twice and neither happened at home in Las Vegas. Once was in Alaska and the other in Quebec both times I had ridden on wet, dirt roads. I was at BRP Homecoming when it happened and they replaced my radiators as it was like concrete had formed in the fins.

[jaherbst]

Shine a flashlight into your grills and you will be able to see if you have an accumulation of bugs on the radiators. If you've been riding in big bug country that could be the problem.

If you open your frunk and remove the right side black plastic panel with a laptop embossed on it and held in place with one push pin you will see the coolant tank. You can also see the lower portion of the tank by looking upward from behind the right wheel shock absorber. If you then shine a flashlight on the coolant tank from below you can see the coolant level in the tank.

Did you have the coolant changed at 28,000 miles? The service schedule says 28K or five years, whichever comes first.

Jack

[PMK]

Only if you do the drain, flush, refill bit yourself, DO NOT try to open the drain tap!! They've been known to seize & when twisted in an attempt to open, snap right outta the tank!

Undo the bottom rad hose instead!

No coolant drain on these models as in previous years. You must remove the radiator hose. Radiator has the boss molded in for a drain, but they never final machined or installed them.

[PW2013STL]

I agree with Jay and Ann.

Had this issue with my 2015 F3. Found my radiators 80% plugged. I had to remove them in order to clean them. Took 5 hours just to get them unplugged from all the dirt and bugs packed in the cooling fins.

[AeroPilot]

One of the bigger issues if you put a lot of highway miles on in "Buggy" country. Even the look of the new 2020 RT shiny radiators facing right into the breeze makes me anticipate the plugging problems down the road.

Grilles help somewhat, but still a problem on our bikes at 50,000 miles plus....

[thunor]

I only had enough time last night to check the level(eyeball) in the overflow tank and saw nothing but didn't get to throw a flashlight under it.

I can only assume that both fans are going as it is very loud when they kick in. As long as I am driving about 20 mph or higher my temp is sitting
around the 3 bar level...even with extended ride.

Having most of mileage be in the Upstate NY region...bug build up is a very likely possibility...they might as well be birds. I will check that out as
well.