click from the drive belt

[Marek]

In my Spyder ST, when starting forward or backward, there is a click from the drive belt. Later, when the motor is warming up during the ride, there are no knocks when starting. Any of you have encountered such a problem?

[Gwolf]

Inspect the inside of the belt for a small stone embedded in the belt or a broken cog.

[EdMat]

Marek, is the noise happening when shifting from neutral to 1st or from neutral to reverse?

[BajaRon]

Inspect the inside of the belt for a small stone embedded in the belt or a broken cog.

Bingo! We have a Winner! (If, as described, it is actually a 'Click' from the belt)

However, if we are talking about a 'Clunk' when shifting. Then this would be the correct answer. Many times, the accuracy of the description of the issue has everything to do with the accuracy of the response.

Marek, is the noise happening when shifting from neutral to 1st or from neutral to reverse?

[EdMat]

BajaRon, wouldn't the noise from a small stone be more constant? Asking because I have not experienced it yet......................and hope I never do.

[BajaRon]

BajaRon, wouldn't the noise from a small stone be more constant? Asking because I have not experienced it yet......................and hope I never do.

Yes, you are correct. And it would be vehicle speed based. Not RPM based. If caught soon enough, a pebble in the belt is usually not a problem. Let it go and you can really damage the belt. A missing tooth in the belt is pretty rare and makes a much more subtle sound. Most will not notice this one.

[Marek]

OK, tomorrow I'm checking the belt thoroughly and looking for stones. I will let you know what the result was.

[Marek]

Marek, is the noise happening when shifting from neutral to 1st or from neutral to reverse?

No, not when changing gear, but during the first meters after moving off

[Gwolf]

You will only be able to hear the stone in belt click rolling at very low speeds. Once the bike is moving a bit faster, the wind noise and engine noise will cover the belt click sounds.

[Marek]

Unfortunately, that's not it. Belt checked, clean, teeth all OK. The clicking sound is heard only at the first, second start (multiple knocks when starting) and then not anymore. Any new ideas?

[Gwolf]

If you have a belt tensioner, you might check the roller on it for a loose or wobbling bearing. I have no other ideas what it might be.

Maybe jack the rear tire off the floor and spin it to see if you can locate the sound.

[Peter Aawen]

Unfortunately, that's not it. Belt checked, clean, teeth all OK. The clicking sound is heard only at the first, second start (multiple knocks when starting) and then not anymore. Any new ideas?

Hmmmm, you sure it's not the front pulley skipping juuust a little on its splines?? That could sound like it's coming from the belt when you first start to move.... Or maybe it's something in the clutch or gearbox??

There again, if it's really coming from the engine/trans on first start-up & not the belt at all, then it could be a sticky valve &/or lifter maybe?? If it's an ST, it should have the V-Twin motor, and they didn't have the hydraulic lifters like the 1330's, but occasionally I've come across sticky valves/lifters on these older types... so I'd guess it's a possibility, especially if it hasn't had regular oil & filter changes. Or maybe it's just an indication that you NEED to adjust the valves??

Please keep us informed on how this goes.... Good Luck!

[Grandpot]

Are you actually hearing the exhaust popping? When the engine is cold, it's very possible that's what you hear. When the engine warms up, it goes away.

[Marek]

With the tensioner disconnected, it is the same. When I raise the rear wheel and turn on the drive, nothing knocks.

[Marek]

Hmmmm, you sure it's not the front pulley skipping juuust a little on its splines?? That could sound like it's coming from the belt when you first start to move.... Or maybe it's something in the clutch or gearbox??

There again, if it's really coming from the engine/trans on first start-up & not the belt at all, then it could be a sticky valve &/or lifter maybe?? If it's an ST, it should have the V-Twin motor, and they didn't have the hydraulic lifters like the 1330's, but occasionally I've come across sticky valves/lifters on these older types... so I'd guess it's a possibility, especially if it hasn't had regular oil & filter changes. Or maybe it's just an indication that you NEED to adjust the valves?? .... snip ....

Yes, it may sound like a belt and come from a drive. Adjusting the valves ... this may be an idea because you can not hear this clatter after the engine has warmed up, as well as without load when the rear wheel is raised. But valve adjustment only at BRP service

[BajaRon]

Yes, it may sound like a belt and come from a drive. Adjusting the valves ... this may be an idea because you can not hear this clatter after the engine has warmed up, as well as without load when the rear wheel is raised. But valve adjustment only at BRP service

I think a 2nd opinion might be in order here. Is there someone that is very familiar with the Spyder that can listen to your noise and maybe get a better idea of where it is coming from? Going from the belt drive to the valves is quite a leap.

Plus, belt drive noise is only going to happen while moving. Valve or lifter noise is going to be present anytime the engine is running, whether you are moving or not.

[spyderfish]

STs are known for a slight tranny shudder/chatter on initial takeoff. Usually only first time takeoff. My 13 STS did this, and belt tensioner was hitting belt guard causing a slight click.

Look for something close to the belt that is being tapped by the belt.

There is a bulletin on the shuddering ST. Fixed by warm-up and revup several times before engaging gears, then, slow start first time only.

Spyderfish

[Marek]

Plus, belt drive noise is only going to happen while moving. Valve or lifter noise is going to be present anytime the engine is running, whether you are moving or not.

You are right, BajaRon, so before I get to the valves, I will check the drive pulley and that the teeth will not jump on the drive axle. Thanks

[Marek]

STs are known for a slight tranny shudder/chatter on initial takeoff. Usually only first time takeoff. My 13 STS did this, and belt tensioner was hitting belt guard causing a slight click.

Look for something close to the belt that is being tapped by the belt.

There is a bulletin on the shuddering ST. Fixed by warm-up and revup several times before engaging gears, then, slow start first time only.

Spyderfish

This was not the case before so this is not normal. I have checked the belt and everything that can come in contact with it, such as a tensioner, but I have not found anything that could cause this sound. Thanks for your suggestions

[BajaRon]

You are right, BajaRon, so before I get to the valves, I will check the drive pulley and that the teeth will not jump on the drive axle. Thanks

Do you have a way to check the belt tension? I am wondering if it could be a bearing issue. Doesn't fit the stereotype. But if we are throwing things against the wall, this might be something to check if you run out of other possibilities.

[Marek]

Is it possible that the drive belt - very tight- jumps over the teeth of the drive wheel and does not cause damage to the teeth of the belt?

[BajaRon]

Is it possible that the drive belt - very tight- jumps over the teeth of the drive wheel and does not cause damage to the teeth of the belt?

I don't think it possible for a too tight belt to jump teeth. If it did, it would certainly do damage. But I just don't think it possible. It might be possible on a belt too lose. Whether belt tension is part of your issue or not, I would recommend knowing what your belt tension is. It can certainly cause issues.

[Peter Aawen]

Just another thoughty here.... maybe you should chock the front wheels, stick the trans in neutral, shut down the engine, turn the park brake off (& ignore the warning beep for 20 seconds or so), then raise the rear wheel juuust off the ground, and gently spin it by hand. While you're doing that, get down close to each of the pulleys in turn, & watch/listen for the noise you're chasing. Doing this might help locate exactly where the noise is coming from, and it could also highlight where it's NOT coming from too!!

And while you're at it, you might also want to check the rear drive cog for looseness & the rear wheel bearings for stiffness &/or noises - they've been known to wear out & the wheel bearings will eventually seize.... And while you're down there, very carefully inspect the tread of the rear tire for any 'embedded objects' too - maybe just a small rock stuck in the tread, but I've had a customer who was adamant that one of his 4WD rear wheel bearings was gone 'cos it's clicking whenever the truck moves' only I discovered a BIG roofing type Tek screw embedded in that particular tire tread - took that out, patched the hole, voila, the noise was gone!! Bloke still insisted that I had to've done the wheel bearing, cos 'he'd definitely recognise the difference in the noise & it just hadta be the bearing - it COULDN'T POSSIBLY have just been a Tek screw in the tire!!'

Noises on vehicles can be very deceiving, not only in what they sound like they might be, but also in where they sound like they're coming from!! Good Luck!

[Marek]

Maybe I wrote it wrong ... I meant that it seems to me that the belt is very tight but maybe it is the other way round and it is not very tight. Then he could jump on the teeth of the drive wheel (front pulley) as I think. But why only at the first, second move?

Do any of you know what the belt tension should be?

Does mechanical measurement make sense or is it better to measure belt vibration?

[BajaRon]

Maybe I wrote it wrong ... I meant that it seems to me that the belt is very tight but maybe it is the other way round and it is not very tight. Then he could jump on the teeth of the drive wheel (front pulley) as I think. But why only at the first, second move?

Do any of you know what the belt tension should be?

Does mechanical measurement make sense or is it better to measure belt vibration?

Belt tension is easily determined. There are a number of ways to do this. Some are a waste of time, in my opinion. Like the belt twist method. I recommend the Krikit II. I sell them for $18.95. But they are readily available elsewhere as well. Small, easy, quick and very accurate when done correctly (which isn't hard at all). The gauge is small enough to store in your Spyder.

I have a belt tension chart that I send out with every Krikit II gauge. If you'd like a copy, just email me at fyredad@hotmail.com and I will send you a PDF file.

There is a Krikit and a Krikit II gauge. They look nearly identical, so be sure to get the right one. The Krikit will not work on the Spyder drive belt.

GatesKrikit2.jpg

Here is a short video on how this gauge works and how accurate it is. We don't need nearly this much accuracy on our drive belt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z11wfc-0-hY

This is a neat tool that I have not seen before. Interesting...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOBSKjKdwek