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OK, not meaning to diss anyone and not being a smartass but a little something to help... When using a tool to enter a screw the essential thing is to keep the screw thread at a right angle to the nut. Unfortunately we have arms, wrists, hands and fingers which are bendy: keep an imaginary line from the elbow, through the wrist and hand and into the driver and screw and rotate wrist and forearm without any misalignment. No wobbling, no holding out of line or any angle but 90 degrees. With a power driver the same rule except in a drill type because of the offset you need to keep the chuck centreline parallel to your forearm.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal
OK, not meaning to diss anyone and not being a smartass but a little something to help... When using a tool to enter a screw the essential thing is to keep the screw thread at a right angle to the nut. Unfortunately we have arms, wrists, hands and fingers which are bendy: keep an imaginary line from the elbow, through the wrist and hand and into the driver and screw and rotate wrist and forearm without any misalignment. No wobbling, no holding out of line or any angle but 90 degrees. With a power driver the same rule except in a drill type because of the offset you need to keep the chuck centreline parallel to your forearm.
Good quality fasteners have proper thread form lead ins and seldom require the precision you mention. Low quality fasteners or sometimes stainless as used on Spyders will cold weld a section of threads from the mating fastener and cause all sorts of issues.
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Originally Posted by PMK
Good quality fasteners have proper thread form lead ins and seldom require the precision you mention....
Yes, well, judging from the admissions in this thread, perhaps they do. There's no substitute for good technique imho.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Peteoz
I’ve got some news for you, Peacekeeper..........I don’t even use a power driver to REMOVE the panel bolts, let alone tighten them, and I have still cross threaded a couple. I certainly don’t “jam the bolt in the hole and pull the trigger’, as per your rather significant assumption as to the cause of cross threading. I guess I’m just not as smart as you, eh? Oh well, I can live with that.
Pete
Thank goodness you're not as smart as me. I can live with that too.
G'DAY MATE !!!!
SIGNATURE PIC CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION
2016 Toyota Sienna SE - hers
2002 BMW 325i - his
1994 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 Sportside Z71 - whoevers vehicle is in the shop
2009 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 Low (Vivid Black) - his
2018 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited - hers
2007 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 Low (Pearl White) - hers (SOLD 02/29/20)
2011 Tao Tao 50 - whoevers bike is in the shop
2007 Reinell 186 FNS - the dog's
1995 Fleetwood Flair 27R - EVERYBODY'S !
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal
Yes, well, judging from the admissions in this thread, perhaps they do. There's no substitute for good technique imho.
Truism. This topic is like the horror movie of DIY Spyder maintenance and mods. Kind of scary.
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
MONK,
1st off, I give you credit for airing out your 2nd snafu. 2ndly, I wouldn't attempt anymore fastener R&R until you get the first two corrected. Good luck
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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Active Member
I worked at a tap and die company for many years, seen a lot of stripped threads. The bolts that BRP uses on the handle bar mount have loc tite on them.
The bolts are junk and the heads are soft so they strip out easily. been there done that.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal
OK, not meaning to diss anyone and not being a smartass but a little something to help... When using a tool to enter a screw the essential thing is to keep the screw thread at a right angle to the nut. Unfortunately we have arms, wrists, hands and fingers which are bendy: keep an imaginary line from the elbow, through the wrist and hand and into the driver and screw and rotate wrist and forearm without any misalignment. No wobbling, no holding out of line or any angle but 90 degrees. With a power driver the same rule except in a drill type because of the offset you need to keep the chuck centreline parallel to your forearm.
Yeah, that was exactly my problem with the first Tupperware bolt I cross threaded, Pink. I thought the angle at which I was installing it was the correct angle.....turns out it wasn’t.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Active Member
This hangs over the door of my toy barn.
51iQPqrizNL._AC_SX450_.jpg
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by chicagospyder
i love it!!!
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Very Active Member
Every time I see this thread at the top of the list, I keep thinking "How many bolts are left on the Spyder ?"
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
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Very Active Member
It could be the new tire thread!!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Border Rider
I worked at a tap and die company for many years, seen a lot of stripped threads. The bolts that BRP uses on the handle bar mount have loc tite on them.
The bolts are junk and the heads are soft so they strip out easily. been there done that.
BRP seems to use thread lock on all their bolts. Hell, they even use thread lock in the little machine screws that hold the cable guides on the the handlebars
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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Active Member
These are the type of easyouts to use with stripped out allen or torx head. https://www.amazon.com/Topec-10-Piec...723098&sr=8-24
But, you must warm up the bolts some with a heat gun first to soften the locktite.
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