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VSS Error Message (2X)
Ok, got a VSS error message and went to Limp Home Mode while on a freeway offramp--AGAIN, in the SAME PLACE. Like the last time, I pulled over, shut it down, waited for a few seconds and restarted in NORMAL operation. This has only happened twice, both in the same place. Sorry, didn't get the error code either time because I was on my way to appts, both times. And on both times, it restarted, operating normally.
Is it possible that a phone/microwave tower in the area is causing this problem? Is there anything else which could cause this to happen, only in this place?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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There is like 8 sensors involved with the VSS. Can you pull a code? What Spyder do you have?
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
You wouldn't by any chance be trailling the brake for a bit of a while as you come off the freeway would you?? If you apply the brakes, even if just gently, and then partially release but don't quite release them properly for a while (usually some seconds, maybe 5 or so) you can trigger a VSS error & Limp Home mode cos the Nanny thinks there's something wrong. Similarly, if your right foot is sorta just touching the brake pedal and depressing it the slightest bit, that too can trigger a VSS Error & Limp Home mode too!
So while there is an EXTREMELY Slight chance that some RF, MW, or EM interference could cause this sorta thing, it's even more EXTREMELY UNLIKELY that it would be that!! From my understanding of how this could impact our machines (& I have looked into it with those who know this sorta stuff juuust a little... ) you'd hafta be SOOO close to the source or it'd hafta be SOOO powerful that you certainly would NOT be the only vehicle stopping there!! Did anyone in a modern car (ie, anything much less than maybe 20 years old??) pass you by while you were stopped?? If they did pass by without also having issues, then it's almost certain that it's NOT any interference causing this issue!!
Besides, as trikermutha mentioned, there's a bunch of sensors you could be upsetting somehow, either thru something you're doing without realising, or maybe thru the particular characteristics of that ramp & the way you're ryding it, causing some odd signals re yaw rate or wheel speed differentials or braking et al to make the Nanny get all tetchy & tell you it's unsafe to ryde like that!
Any Codes that would hafta be saved in there somewhere should make whatever the problem is pretty obvious, but until you get them, maybe next time you ryde that particular off ramp, try to make sure that you aren't holding the brake pedal partially depressed as you do; and if it's a sweeping corner, try to pull on the inside bar rather than pushing on the outside bar, at the same time as moving your weight across the seat to the inside of the corner.... that should help keep your CoG on the right side of making the yaw sensor happy, any tendency to lift a wheel minimised, and basically keep the Nanny happy too!
But without that code or codes, you'll never really know exactly what the issue is!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-02-2020 at 06:02 PM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Very Active Member
Had this problem once, Pulled off side of road. Brake lights were on. Switch must have stuck!!
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The claim that high frequency lines can mess up the DPS so I guess why not the VSS? But I think riding the brake is more likely the culprit.
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trikermutha, I have a 2012 RSS-SE5. Tried pulling codes after it reset without success. Guess I have to pull them while I have an active error message. Will do next time.
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Peter Aawen, I'll try to notice what I'm doing with the brakes next time. Yes, many, many newish vehicles drove past while I was pulled over (you'd never guess we were in self-quarantine!) so it was probably braking, like you mentioned. I'll be more conscious next time. Thanks for the knowledge.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by PhilY
Ok, got a VSS error message and went to Limp Home Mode while on a freeway offramp--AGAIN, in the SAME PLACE. Like the last time, I pulled over, shut it down, waited for a few seconds and restarted in NORMAL operation. This has only happened twice, both in the same place. Sorry, didn't get the error code either time because I was on my way to appts, both times. And on both times, it restarted, operating normally.
Is it possible that a phone/microwave tower in the area is causing this problem? Is there anything else which could cause this to happen, only in this place?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Hello! There is another forum memder that lives in Hawaii, goes by the name "supersuk". Check out his restoration of a 2008 GS. He might be able to provide some help.
Last edited by Web Runner; 05-06-2020 at 09:38 AM.
Reason: changed rs to gs.
2010 Full Moon Silver RS SE5
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Very Active Member
Here's another scenario:
If you are in a long sweeping turn you can get the condition you described. The steering angle sensor tells the VSS that the handlebars are not pointing straight ahead. After a certain length of time this will trip the VSS error. This also can happen if the steering angle adjustment is slightly off.
Does this sound plausible to you?
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Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!
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Grandpot, It certainly is possible. This exit is just as you describe, a long, sweeping turn rather than a tight one. I'll try to pay attention next time and get back.
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OK, been a while with this COVID lockdown but it happened again--since the last time, I've replaced the battery and all relays and cleaned all fuse contacts. Yesterday, I was simply driving past the exit, no braking, and went to limp home mode. I was late for an appointment so I pulled over (on the freeway), powered down then on again and it cleared itself like the last two times. I'm at a loss. It's now happened three times in exactly the same place. Gotta think a microwave/cell tower may be involved, or . . . Any ideas suggestions will be appreciated. I plan to go back and pull codes when I have some time.
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Very Active Member
Is there someone on the island with a BUDS system that can reset the Steering Angle Sensor? If it is misaligned a little, it can cause this problem.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
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SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
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President: Rolling Thunder SC1
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Member: American Legion
Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!
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Originally Posted by PhilY
Peter Aawen, I'll try to notice what I'm doing with the brakes next time. Yes, many, many newish vehicles drove past while I was pulled over (you'd never guess we were in self-quarantine!) so it was probably braking, like you mentioned. I'll be more conscious next time. Thanks for the knowledge.
I had to add a helper spring up under the brake peddle to help hold the peddle up off the switch down there, my old spring was getting weak and the brake light was coming on at work and I would have to go out and pull it up by hand! Spray some wd 40 on the arms under there and if you have to put a helper spring on it!! That switch is touchy!!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PhilY
OK, been a while with this COVID lockdown but it happened again--since the last time, I've replaced the battery and all relays and cleaned all fuse contacts. Yesterday, I was simply driving past the exit, no braking, and went to limp home mode. I was late for an appointment so I pulled over (on the freeway), powered down then on again and it cleared itself like the last two times. I'm at a loss. It's now happened three times in exactly the same place. Gotta think a microwave/cell tower may be involved, or . . . Any ideas suggestions will be appreciated. I plan to go back and pull codes when I have some time.
You either need to have it plugged into BUDS or pull the active code(s) yourself. That may lead you closer to an answer. Since you are posting in the GS/RS forum. I will guess you have one of those. Still don't know the year or specific model. But the most likely way to retrieve the active codes, GS/RS with round monochrome display, is to follow the procedure below. This will only bring up active codes. So it needs to be done before the fault light goes out and the fault changes to occured state.
With engine running.
Press the mode button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display. Make sure you do not release the mode button when you get to "engine hours"
While still holding the mode button. Flash high beams 5 times within 2 seconds.
If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed.
If there are more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.
If you cannot start the engine.
Press and hold the headlight overrun button on the front of the right handlebar controls.
Press the mode button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display. Make sure you do not release the mode button when you get to "engine hours"
While still holding the mode button and headlight overrun button. Flash high beams 5 times within 2 seconds.
If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed.
If there are more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Grandpot, I'm not aware of anyone but wonder why it happens in the same location and nowhere else? Will ask in the Hawaii forum.
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Mikey, at this point, i'm desperate but it only happens in this one location. Will check as you recommend anyway because I have a hydraulic hand brake adaptor on my trike. Thanks!
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billybovine, thanks for the info. I intend to go back and see if I can replicate the error, then get the fault code. Stay tuned. BTW it's a 2012 RS-S SE5.
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OK, got fault codes in the same place near the freeway--I gotta believe something electronic is causing this to happen--there are two military bases very close by (Pearl Harbor and Camp Smith, home of Pacific Command). Anyway, here are the codes: 2U0122, 1P2545 and 0C0040 (zeros may be Os and v-v). So I turned off the ignition key, counted to 10 and restarted with no codes. Tried to get codes again with "no active faults" result. Go figure!
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Active Member
Howzit! I was out with a friend the other day near the local airport. We both had amplified earmuffs on at the time. We both spent our careers in electronics with radar experience. While out there, something got turned on at the airport and 'lit us up'. We both recognized the sound in the earmuffs of being interfered with by a powerful radar. As far as other vehicles continuing to run, almost all cars have their various computers in metal boxes, inside a metal car, so they are well shielded -- we got plastic. I also remember the 25MW radar we had in the military that would light flourescent tubes in the area. I think you're on to something.
Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
Spyder Tryke Pylot
2020 RT , Lamonster extender Petrol
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Originally Posted by ButterSmooth
Howzit! I was out with a friend the other day near the local airport. We both had amplified earmuffs on at the time. We both spent our careers in electronics with radar experience. While out there, something got turned on at the airport and 'lit us up'. We both recognized the sound in the earmuffs of being interfered with by a powerful radar. As far as other vehicles continuing to run, almost all cars have their various computers in metal boxes, inside a metal car, so they are well shielded -- we got plastic. I also remember the 25MW radar we had in the military that would light flourescent tubes in the area. I think you're on to something.
Thanks. Four times in exactly the same area cannot be coincidence. Happened NO WHERE ELSE (yet). I'm getting more convinced that it's something in the environment vs. on the trike. Some of the SIGINT stuff at Pearl and Camp Smith could be the issue. Think I'll wait a bit before investing $$$ in a BUDS for now.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by PhilY
Thanks. Four times in exactly the same area cannot be coincidence. Happened NO WHERE ELSE (yet). I'm getting more convinced that it's something in the environment vs. on the trike. Some of the SIGINT stuff at Pearl and Camp Smith could be the issue. Think I'll wait a bit before investing $$$ in a BUDS for now.
Two more details that may be relevant. In an antenna field where there are multiple sources of radiation, there will be 'nodes' where the signals interact and create a high energy spot. You may have found one, and there may be others. Vehicles that use the chassis for the ground and wires for the signals are more susceptible to interference. The usual solution is running critical signals on twisted pairs of wires, signal and ground. If more spurious signal rejection is needed, the next step is shielding.
If the BUDS analysis identifies the offending sensor, you may be able to improve the electrical wiring and eliminate the problem. If it's multiple sensors it will be more difficult, but still may be as simple as wrapping the wire harness (not necessarily all of it) in foil and grounding the foil. Try the easy (and sensor relevant) parts first. It may not take much to make the problem go away.
Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
Spyder Tryke Pylot
2020 RT , Lamonster extender Petrol
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PhilY
OK, got fault codes in the same place near the freeway--I gotta believe something electronic is causing this to happen--there are two military bases very close by (Pearl Harbor and Camp Smith, home of Pacific Command). Anyway, here are the codes: 2U0122, 1P2545 and 0C0040 (zeros may be Os and v-v). So I turned off the ignition key, counted to 10 and restarted with no codes. Tried to get codes again with "no active faults" result. Go figure!
Looking at Spyder codes - U0122: 8598A494-77B1-410E-82DC-D6535E90D398.jpg
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-08-2022 at 05:47 PM.
Reason: Fixed attach display
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U0122 is Can bus communication failure to the VCM. That may be from some type of interference. Most of the time that can be cause by a electrically noisy connected device like a defective aftermarket led light. But could be external.
P2545 is a VCM internal fault counter failure. Don't know what to make of that one. May be secondary to the real cause.
C0040 is Brake pedal switch failure. Normally from riding the brake pedal and not really a brake switch problem. Make sure you are not riding with your foot on the brake pedal enough to make the brake light come on but not enough for the brake pressure to come up.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Originally Posted by billybovine
U0122 is Can bus communication failure to the VCM. That may be from some type of interference. Most of the time that can be cause by a electrically noisy connected device like a defective aftermarket led light. But could be external.
P2545 is a VCM internal fault counter failure. Don't know what to make of that one. May be secondary to the real cause.
C0040 is Brake pedal switch failure. Normally from riding the brake pedal and not really a brake switch problem. Make sure you are not riding with your foot on the brake pedal enough to make the brake light come on but not enough for the brake pressure to come up.
Thanks. I did replace my taillights with LEDs. I'll put the originals back on and see if the prob still exists. Checked brake switch and that is not an issue--return spring is very strong.
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IMPORTANT UPDATE: Per error codes and billyb's suggestions, I replaced two LED tail light bulbs with the originals. Drove by the "Bermuda Triangle" which caused a the errors four times in a row previously and, VOILA, no problems!
Dear BPP, why would anyone design a sensor system which malfunctions because of the addition of LED light bulbs?
THANKS, BILLYBOVINE!!!!
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