Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: BLS Replacement

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    11
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default BLS Replacement

    A couple times this week tapping the brake pedal wasn't enough to disengage cruise, I had to hold the brake for a second.
    Last night, I lost brake lights and gained two trouble codes (p00504 and p061e). All fuses are good so it looks like the Brake Light Switch is likely bad.
    Has anyone ever changed this themselves? It appears ti be a common problem but I haven't found much info on the process of removing it.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Mint Hill, NC
    Posts
    5,875
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Year and model?
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
    ******************************
    Cognac 2014 RT-S

  3. #3
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Mitchell, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    6,264
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Try cleaning the switch first on your mystery Spyder or Ryker.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    11
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    2014 sts-se5. Cleaned, didn't work.

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    11
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Removed the switch. I can't say it is difficult, but i pretty much had to disassemble the bike to get the catalytic converter or primary muffler out of the way. Once that was off the switch only has two bolts and a screw holding it in.
    Interesting, the switches didn't work when tested on the bike but after removing they both seem to function. I am going to replace so I don't have to disassemble again but I suspect road grime may have wedged into the switch or the contact lever slipped and caught on the pedal.
    As I loosened the pedal, I heard the switch click which it wasn't doing before.

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    11
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Back on the road. There are two switches that have to be drilled out and riveted back onto the mounting plate. The dealer had both in stock and it just uses 1/8 x1/2 pop rivets.
    Fixing and putting it all back together only took a couple hours. I even had it done before my wife saw the whole thing disassembled and spread across the shop.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Mitchell, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    6,264
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    You should have not had to replace both switches. There is only one brake light switch and the other is the low pressure switch. Since you were not getting any low pressure faults it would have been working fine. Oh well it's done and fixed.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    11
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Switch replacement is easy, getting to them was not so I figured it was worth the extra $40 to do both while I had it tore down.
    Especially since the switch was likely. But still just an educated guess.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Stetson, Maine
    Posts
    1,592
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Thanks for keeping us up todate.
    New to Sue and I
    2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
    Gone but not forgotten
    RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •