2016 RTS 350 miles report

[FastOldGuy]

I've spend numerous hours here reading Before and After I picked up my Spyder on Saturday. In two days we rode close to 350 miles, the Spyder had 2,519 miles when I picked it up.

1. The OEM Front Tires Are Crap. Mine shake at different Speeds. I jacked it up today and checked and cleaned Everything Possible. The front tires have flat spots on both. The right is worse than the Left. (This bike sat for over a year after the original owner passed.) I thought they might smooth out after a few miles. No Luck Yet. (Thinking of Replacing them Both.) *Whats the Best Tire for the Front?

2. At Highway Speeds I get a and intermittent Vibration. Checking the Belt, No Belt Tensioner/idler Belt is tight. *How does mounting the Idler/Tensioner on the top of the belt stop the Vibration?

3. Gas mileage w/2 up is low. 32 mpg. For a lot of 350 miles it was 70ish.

4. The Semi-Auto transmission works great but BANGS into Gear the first time after sitting.


Over all I like the Spyder. Cleaning it like I normally clean my car, takes 2x as long. I removed the front wheels and cleaned the inner fenders, all the suspension, jacked up the rear and cleaned everything.

I ordered a Bluethooth module from Amazon and figured out how to mount my phone in the center of the bars today. I had to make a mounting tab and spacer for the mount.

[JayBros]

1. Do a search for front tires and you'll find a number of brands. I have Federal EVO 595s in stock size.

2. You say the belt is tight, have you measured how tight with a Krikit tension gauge? Mine must be set right because I've never experienced vibration. Some folks lower the tension a bit and the vibration disappears.

3. When you get over 60 mph the mileage starts going down; the faster you go the worse it gets because you're pushing a barn door through the wind.

4. The constant mesh transmission always clunks when you shift from N to 1st or R; don't worry, they all do it and it doesn't do any damage.

Good luck with your new ride.

[CopperSpyder]

Glad your feeling your way around the new ride! Yes OEM tire are not very good. I would look to replace them and do an oil and filter change soon the ride it for a while with the new front tires and oil. Ride for 1000 to 2000 mile too let your self get the hang of it a little more and see if it comes to you. After that start adding things if you think you need them.

[h0gr1der]

I've spend numerous hours here reading Before and After I picked up my Spyder on Saturday. In two days we rode close to 350 miles, the Spyder had 2,519 miles when I picked it up.

1. The OEM Front Tires Are Crap. Mine shake at different Speeds. I jacked it up today and checked and cleaned Everything Possible. The front tires have flat spots on both. The right is worse than the Left. (This bike sat for over a year after the original owner passed.) I thought they might smooth out after a few miles. No Luck Yet. (Thinking of Replacing them Both.) *Whats the Best Tire for the Front?

2. At Highway Speeds I get a and intermittent Vibration. Checking the Belt, No Belt Tensioner/idler Belt is tight. *How does mounting the Idler/Tensioner on the top of the belt stop the Vibration?

3. Gas mileage w/2 up is low. 32 mpg. For a lot of 350 miles it was 70ish.

4. The Semi-Auto transmission works great but BANGS into Gear the first time after sitting.


Over all I like the Spyder. Cleaning it like I normally clean my car, takes 2x as long. I removed the front wheels and cleaned the inner fenders, all the suspension, jacked up the rear and cleaned everything.

I ordered a Bluethooth module from Amazon and figured out how to mount my phone in the center of the bars today. I had to make a mounting tab and spacer for the mount.

A couple of things.
Belt Tension is such a problem that BRP put out a TSB to "Fix" the problem.
Here is the TSB
BRP TST Bulletin Belt Tension.jpg
Basically, it comes down to the belt is going to reach a harmonic that set up a vibration in the frame, some folks including myself have found lowering the belt tension to a lower setting reduces the intensity and severity of the vibration. My 2018 RTL was absolutely awful at the factory recommended setting. Much better at the minimum setting. If you are handy with tools learn to do this yourself as when you take it to the dealer that will set the belt to the higher tension, pretty much no matter what you tell them. Buy the Krikit II to test your tension.

I was told the transmission bangs on first engagement because all of the gears are spinning, unlike most cars. Something to do with the way the clutch is set up, being open at idle. They don't suffer from this, the drive-lines on these machines seem to be pretty durable.

Tires- What can I say. Kenda are Chinese garbage. I swapped mine for car tires at 1000 miles (Fronts only made it 800 miles, one wouldn't balance). Read until your eyes bleed on the tire threads. Certain truisms about the car tire swap. You will end up with less air pressure then OEM front and back. This is normal. I'm not going to get a tire thread hijack going, if you want to see what I run it's in my signature and posts as to how I got there. If the bike tends to wander a front end laser alignment helps. If it wallows the BajaRon sway bar helps, along with the BajaRon front shock adjusters.

[FastOldGuy]

A couple of things.
Belt Tension is such a problem that BRP put out a TSB to "Fix" the problem.
Here is the TSB
BRP TST Bulletin Belt Tension.jpg
Basically, it comes down to the belt is going to reach a harmonic that set up a vibration in the frame, some folks including myself have found lowering the belt tension to a lower setting reduces the intensity and severity of the vibration. My 2018 RTL was absolutely awful at the factory recommended setting. Much better at the minimum setting. If you are handy with tools learn to do this yourself as when you take it to the dealer that will set the belt to the higher tension, pretty much no matter what you tell them. Buy the Krikit II to test your tension.

I was told the transmission bangs on first engagement because all of the gears are spinning, unlike most cars. Something to do with the way the clutch is set up, being open at idle. They don't suffer from this, the drive-lines on these machines seem to be pretty durable.

Tires- What can I say. Kenda are Chinese garbage. I swapped mine for car tires at 1000 miles (Fronts only made it 800 miles, one wouldn't balance). Read until your eyes bleed on the tire threads. Certain truisms about the car tire swap. You will end up with less air pressure then OEM front and back. This is normal. I'm not going to get a tire thread hijack going, if you want to see what I run it's in my signature and posts as to how I got there. If the bike tends to wander a front end laser alignment helps. If it wallows the BajaRon sway bar helps, along with the BajaRon front shock adjusters.

Excellent Info! I hate it that I'm so Mechanical sometimes. I see the Belt Vibration issue is "WTH"? My Belt drive Harleys never have done the harmonic vibration but... The Belt Tension seems to be Considerably Less. Adding the idler on the tension side of the belt is wrong in my opinion, evidently the idler reduces the harmonics some (or enough to stop it).

Yep, I started researching Oil filters and oil yesterday. I need to build a spindle for a static balancing (or buy one). What are people using? One of my neighbors has 2 Lathes so all I'd need is a piece of aluminum (and 4 precision bearings) to build a balancer. I have Cones that I made for my HD wheels.

Transmission wise, I haven't seen a drawing on how the clutch operates but as some of us know most motorcycle transmissions do not have synchronizers. On the Harleys I raced (yes, it is possible to build a "somewhat" fast H-D) I'd dovetail the gear cogs. Is there decent Shop Manuals for the Can Am's available?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Excellent Info! I hate it that I'm so Mechanical sometimes. I see the Belt Vibration issue is "WTH"? My Belt drive Harleys never have done the harmonic vibration but... The Belt Tension seems to be Considerably Less. Adding the idler on the tension side of the belt is wrong in my opinion, evidently the idler reduces the harmonics some (or enough to stop it).

Harley's belts are shorter aren't they? That's the difference and cause of the vibration. Check out Jim's SmoothSpyder tensioner. It mounts on the bottom side and is what I use. He has an ad on the home page here.

Go to www.canammanuals.com for a manual. It's a copy (legit?) of the factory manual. BRP does not make the manuals available through the usual routes for car service manuals.

[h0gr1der]

Excellent Info! I hate it that I'm so Mechanical sometimes. I see the Belt Vibration issue is "WTH"? My Belt drive Harleys never have done the harmonic vibration but... The Belt Tension seems to be Considerably Less. Adding the idler on the tension side of the belt is wrong in my opinion, evidently the idler reduces the harmonics some (or enough to stop it).

Yep, I started researching Oil filters and oil yesterday. I need to build a spindle for a static balancing (or buy one). What are people using? One of my neighbors has 2 Lathes so all I'd need is a piece of aluminum (and 4 precision bearings) to build a balancer. I have Cones that I made for my HD wheels.

Transmission wise, I haven't seen a drawing on how the clutch operates but as some of us know most motorcycle transmissions do not have synchronizers. On the Harleys I raced (yes, it is possible to build a "somewhat" fast H-D) I'd dovetail the gear cogs. Is there decent Shop Manuals for the Can Am's available?

Here's what I use from Marc Parnes. It's a static balance shaft, pretty self explanatory.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I've spend numerous hours here reading Before and After I picked up my Spyder on Saturday. In two days we rode close to 350 miles, the Spyder had 2,519 miles when I picked it up.

1. The OEM Front Tires Are Crap. Mine shake at different Speeds. I jacked it up today and checked and cleaned Everything Possible. The front tires have flat spots on both. The right is worse than the Left. (This bike sat for over a year after the original owner passed.) I thought they might smooth out after a few miles. No Luck Yet. (Thinking of Replacing them Both.) *Whats the Best Tire for the Front?

2. At Highway Speeds I get a and intermittent Vibration. Checking the Belt, No Belt Tensioner/idler Belt is tight. *How does mounting the Idler/Tensioner on the top of the belt stop the Vibration?

3. Gas mileage w/2 up is low. 32 mpg. For a lot of 350 miles it was 70ish.

4. The Semi-Auto transmission works great but BANGS into Gear the first time after sitting.


Over all I like the Spyder. Cleaning it like I normally clean my car, takes 2x as long. I removed the front wheels and cleaned the inner fenders, all the suspension, jacked up the rear and cleaned everything.

I ordered a Bluethooth module from Amazon and figured out how to mount my phone in the center of the bars today. I had to make a mounting tab and spacer for the mount.

Hi,

#1. if you want the best get a Vredestein Quatrac 5 in 165/60-15 ( @ tirerack , or Simple tire , or Vulcan tire )

#2.- I have the same RT as you, because of BEARING issues I lowered my drive belt tension to 160lbs (measured on the ground) using the KritKit gauge.

#3.- Your (and everyone else's 1330 eng) if driven at 55 or less mph can get in the 37 to 40 mpg range .... at highway speeds it will drop off - like yours...

#4.- when cold it makes more noise, and going from neutral to 1st or reverse they ALL bang, I wouldn't even dream of beveling the gears .... Also no matter how fast you accelerate, DON"T back off the throttle when shifting.... I have Drag raced mine and never did

Good luck .... Mike

[FastOldGuy]

Here's what I use from Marc Parnes. It's a static balance shaft, pretty self explanatory.

NICE! I'm going to guess Marc is here? With having access to a Lathe all I need is a piece of Aluminum Stock. I might play with a AutoCad drawing and put the bearings in the balancer hub (and remove the inside grease seal). Or if Marc's Balancer is not over priced buy his.

What Tires Are In The Picture?


(IdahoMntSpyder) I like the Belt tensioner design. From what I read, for my '16 RTS the idler goes on top(?). I think the bottom of the belt is the best way.

[AeroPilot]

Enjoy your 16 RTS - it will provide Myles of Smyles as you Ryde and make it your own.

The front tires likely are flat spotted from sitting, and Kumho Solus KH16 and Federal Formosas have worked well for us.

The belt vibration on my 15 RT has been minor and persistent between 70 and 72 mph for me at diffferent belt tensions - I just put on Lamonsters enhanced tensioner after 50,000 miles as I hope to take some longer trips when the virus lets up.

I still get surprised sometimes with the first gear CLUNK -- changed oil this week, and when I started it up and clicked it in gear I thought I dropped the tranny. Oh well prbably only 999 million, 999 thousand and 909 shifts left in it now
Your mileage will improve as the engine gets more miles, but as others have said driving above 65 costs you when you fill up. Your ride, your choice.

[h0gr1der]

NICE! I'm going to guess Marc is here? With having access to a Lathe all I need is a piece of Aluminum Stock. I might play with a AutoCad drawing and put the bearings in the balancer hub (and remove the inside grease seal). Or if Marc's Balancer is not over priced buy his.

What Tires Are In The Picture?


(IdahoMntSpyder) I like the Belt tensioner design. From what I read, for my '16 RTS the idler goes on top(?). I think the bottom of the belt is the best way.

Marc is not a vendor that I know of. He has his own website. I helped him develop some cones that better fit the newer Spyder wheels. His static balance shaft seems to work well. The Spyder isn't listed on his website, best to call him and get a clear understanding. I think mine was about $120 to the door.

[AeroPilot]

I've used the Harbor Freight balancing stand with tapered cones to balance wheels on my two wheelers and spyders, but since trying Lamonsters Centramatics, I'll just change tires as needed and keep the rolling smooth with the centramatics as they wear!!