I got a transmission service warning indicator at 11600 miles. I change the belt myself. It was a little bit of a pain to get the cover off, but other than that, not too terrible. My old belt looked quite good showing little signs of wear despite the fact that I did have a belt overheating issue on one occasion due to a dirty filter.
From the looks of my belt, I think it could have made it easily another 10000 miles.
So do you think that BRP is just doing a little CYA by recommending replacement every 12000 miles?
I'm not worried about the cost of the belt if in fact it can go 20,000 miles. I am concerned about how often I have to change the CVT air filter. I do not drive-in terribly dirty conditions and I was having to replace my filter every 3 to 4000 miles. So, I eventually put a K&N filter on and that pretty well solves that problem.
Thanks for sharing.
Does anyone know, is the transmission service indicator diagnosed via the software (ie measured vechicle speed compared to Engine RPMs or so)? Or is it just triggered by miles traveled?
What did you have to do to access and service the CVT? Did you need to raise the seat/tank etc, or could you remove the cover with Everything else in Place etc? If you have any more detailed info of the procedure or Pictures of it, it would be interesting
There has been a few threads about CVT belt Life, but seems there is not that much actual data yet, mostly speculations. Probably since most people dont ride upwards 12000 miles per year
I got a transmission service warning indicator at 11600 miles. I change the belt myself. It was a little bit of a pain to get the cover off, but other than that, not too terrible. My old belt looked quite good showing little signs of wear despite the fact that I did have a belt overheating issue on one occasion due to a dirty filter.
From the looks of my belt, I think it could have made it easily another 10000 miles.
So do you think that BRP is just doing a little CYA by recommending replacement every 12000 miles?
I'm not worried about the cost of the belt if in fact it can go 20,000 miles. I am concerned about how often I have to change the CVT air filter. I do not drive-in terribly dirty conditions and I was having to replace my filter every 3 to 4000 miles. So, I eventually put a K&N filter on and that pretty well solves that problem.
Thoughts on real CVT belt life???
Can Am is most likely adding a safety factor to the belt life. Better safe than sorry is my opinion on this. Different people ride differently so if you ride easy than you could get more life out of the cvt belt.
I don't have a Ryker, so do not have to worry about the CVT belt replacement issues............but
BRP does like most companies. They will CYA as much as they can.
Let me get off subject for this one post. RE: Valves on the 998 twins. It was recommended to have the valves checked and re-done at 14K intervals. I believe the 08's had 12K recommended. As a new Spyder owner, I followed these recommendations to the letter.
It cost me $1,200 and they needed no adjustment. There was a lot of talk about this subject. Fast forward, 2010 RT. I had those valves checked at 28K. Once again, $1,200 bucks and no adjustment needed. On that one, they did not replace a gasket. It leaked over the winter and I had to have it re-done in the Spring. That was on their dime.
Fast forward again...we bought a new 2011 in 2012...I decided no valve checks would be done unless the engine started sounding funny. We traded it off at 37K with no recommended valve checks. My idea at the time was to go at least 50K.
Happily, the new 1330/RT and F3 do not require any valve check service.
I cannot speak for the Ryker CVT belt...but conversation over the next year or so should help those who are contemplating change out at 12K.
I will say, if the Ryker is driven hard....then you may want to think about it.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
The belt may last longer than 12K miles and that would most likely depend on a number of factors. The problem as I see it is this. If the belt "breaks" while you're riding it would require a tow. This isn't something you're going to fix on the side of the road. Changing the actual belt is an easy 5-10 minutes process, gaining access to the belt is not. I'd rather replace the belt at 12K and not have to worry about a tow while out riding.
The belts themselves are hard to inspect for defects or wear because often times the belt looks just fine before it breaks. Some times you'll see a "cord" unraveling on the edge or a "burn mark" which are both signs your belt may need replacing but I've had many a belt (on a snowmobile, which you have full access to inspect and can be replaced in 5 minutes on the trail and its the exact same belt used on the Ryker) look completely fine and blow 100 miles down the trail. I would say the biggest factor in belts deteriorating over time and "breaking" (typically they shred not break) is heat. Heat from higher RPM's, heaver load, lack of airflow in the housing, outside temp, etc. all of the above.
Also, over time the belt width wears so while it may not fail and be perfectly usable the width can be robbing you of performance. The belt width will wear slowly which means you'll lose performance slowly and likely not even notice the difference until you replace the belt.
The belt may last longer than 12K miles and that would most likely depend on a number of factors. The problem as I see it is this. If the belt "breaks" while you're riding it would require a tow. This isn't something you're going to fix on the side of the road. Changing the actual belt is an easy 5-10 minutes process, gaining access to the belt is not. I'd rather replace the belt at 12K and not have to worry about a tow while out riding.
The belts themselves are hard to inspect for defects or wear because often times the belt looks just fine before it breaks. Some times you'll see a "cord" unraveling on the edge or a "burn mark" which are both signs your belt may need replacing but I've had many a belt (on a snowmobile, which you have full access to inspect and can be replaced in 5 minutes on the trail and its the exact same belt used on the Ryker) look completely fine and blow 100 miles down the trail. I would say the biggest factor in belts deteriorating over time and "breaking" (typically they shred not break) is heat. Heat from higher RPM's, heaver load, lack of airflow in the housing, outside temp, etc. all of the above.
Also, over time the belt width wears so while it may not fail and be perfectly usable the width can be robbing you of performance. The belt width will wear slowly which means you'll lose performance slowly and likely not even notice the difference until you replace the belt.
x 2 There is much to be said for being conservative. Ask me about battery changeouts.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
These belts often show no sign of wear before they break. When they break they tend to shred. When they shred you can get small bits of rubber in places where it will gum up the works. Instead of a simple belt change you are now looking at a complete disassembly of the clutches and rollers to get those shredded bits out of the moving parts. BRP like most manufacturers will error on the side of caution. If they say 24,000 miles and belts were breaking frequently then BRP would be the bad guys because their belts are failing. Call it 12,000 and belts get changed before breaking. Folks may complain about changing the belt at 12K, but they would complain a lot louder when the shredded belt results in a tow and an expensive tear down to get the pieces out of the inner workings of this system. If I'm on a trip and 200 miles from home when the warning pops up I'm going to ride home. I will be changing the belt when I get home though.
Just for reference, based on RykerUSA's statement that the top needs to be tilted for Engine and CVT access.
I found a video showing the steps, it doesnt look too complicated https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mktc...UA4u8X8iDP-qLY
Hope there will be some good videos of belt replacement, how to inspect/Clean the CVT primary and secondary etc.
Just for reference, based on RykerUSA's statement that the top needs to be tilted for Engine and CVT access.
I found a video showing the steps, it doesnt look too complicated https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mktc...UA4u8X8iDP-qLY
Hope there will be some good videos of belt replacement, how to inspect/Clean the CVT primary and secondary etc.
I practiced raising the clam shell up the other day. I thought I'd try it out. It didn't tilt up as much as I expected. Although I didn't take the CVT housing off. I just wanted to know ahead of time of any unforeseen surprises.....none. The spark plug area is another story...to me though.
I don't have a Ryker, so do not have to worry about the CVT belt replacement issues............but
BRP does like most companies. They will CYA as much as they can.
Let me get off subject for this one post. RE: Valves on the 998 twins. It was recommended to have the valves checked and re-done at 14K intervals. I believe the 08's had 12K recommended. As a new Spyder owner, I followed these recommendations to the letter.
It cost me $1,200 and they needed no adjustment. There was a lot of talk about this subject. Fast forward, 2010 RT. I had those valves checked at 28K. Once again, $1,200 bucks and no adjustment needed. On that one, they did not replace a gasket. It leaked over the winter and I had to have it re-done in the Spring. That was on their dime.
Fast forward again...we bought a new 2011 in 2012...I decided no valve checks would be done unless the engine started sounding funny. We traded it off at 37K with no recommended valve checks. My idea at the time was to go at least 50K.
Happily, the new 1330/RT and F3 do not require any valve check service.
I cannot speak for the Ryker CVT belt...but conversation over the next year or so should help those who are contemplating change out at 12K.
I will say, if the Ryker is driven hard....then you may want to think about it.
... about the Valve Adjustment thing .... I 'm pretty sure it was SpyderJim that went over 100,000 mi and His Valves didn't need adjustment either ..... Mike
Heat destroys drive belts. They work very well on snowmobiles because of the cold temps and open case that allows a great deal of cooling to the belt drive. Our Rykers have an enclosed drive system. The scoop on the right side contains an air filter. And there is a blower that sucks air through that filter to cool the belt. I think the single most effective way to get longer life from your belt is to keep it cool. That is why I switched to a K&N, high volume air filter. The K&N flows more air than the OEM paper filter, and that should translate to a cooler, longer lasting belt.
That and the fact that I found my OEM paper filter somewhat blocked by debris when I checked it. I was surprised because the engine air intake filter (which is identical and sits behind the scoop on the left side) was like brand new. That CVT blower must really suck some air!
Last edited by BajaRon; 05-14-2020 at 07:49 AM.
Reason: Off Subject
I practiced raising the clam shell up the other day. I thought I'd try it out. It didn't tilt up as much as I expected. Although I didn't take the CVT housing off. I just wanted to know ahead of time of any unforeseen surprises.....none. The spark plug area is another story...to me though.
Heat destroys drive belts. They work very well on snowmobiles because of the cold temps and open case that allows a great deal of cooling to the belt drive. Our Rykers have an enclosed drive system. The scoop on the right side contains an air filter. And there is a blower that sucks air through that filter to cool the belt. I think the single most effective way to get longer life from your belt is to keep it cool. That is why I switched to a K&N, high volume air filter. The K&N flows more air than the OEM paper filter, and that should translate to a cooler, longer lasting belt.
That and the fact that I found my OEM paper filter somewhat blocked by debris when I checked it. I was surprised because the engine air intake filter (which is identical and sits behind the scoop on the left side) was like brand new. That CVT blower must really suck some air!
How many miles have you put on the K&N filter since changing it? Have you noticed a difference in driving? I live in the PNW so the heat isn't as bad up here compared to TN. Thanks
How many miles have you put on the K&N filter since changing it? Have you noticed a difference in driving? I live in the PNW so the heat isn't as bad up here compared to TN. Thanks
It has been raining a lot. And I have been working a lot. So I have not had time to compare. The last time I rode my Ryker hard for an extended time I noticed a faint, hot rubber smell when I got home. It was not a particularly hot day.
Swapping out to the K&N air filter was quick and easy for me since I stock them. I really think this is going to make a good deal of difference in potential air flow to the belt. So when I get the chance. I should be able to easily duplicate the conditions again. I will post about it when I am able.
It has been raining a lot. And I have been working a lot. So I have not had time to compare. The last time I rode my Ryker hard for an extended time I noticed a faint, hot rubber smell when I got home. It was not a particularly hot day.
Swapping out to the K&N air filter was quick and easy for me since I stock them. I really think this is going to make a good deal of difference in potential air flow to the belt. So when I get the chance. I should be able to easily duplicate the conditions again. I will post about it when I am able.
About two days ago I moved my older & reoiled once K&N filter to CVT side and placed new one on engine intake side. We rode yesterday 148 miles. It was only in the lower 60's and quite breezy. I didn't hear the fan kick on at all, even at end of ride after shutting down in the shed. Higher temps. will be needed for a more true evaluation on my part.
About two days ago I moved my older & reoiled once K&N filter to CVT side and placed new one on engine intake side. We rode yesterday 148 miles. It was only in the lower 60's and quite breezy. I didn't hear the fan kick on at all, even at end of ride after shutting down in the shed. Higher temps. will be needed for a more true evaluation on my part.
Just to be clear, the CVT fan has nothing to do with the coolant fan. While you are able to hear the coolant fan cycle on and off. The CVT fan is always spinning whenever the engine is running. Since the CVT fan is located on the drive side of the CVT system, it will turn at engine RPM speed regardless of belt or outside air temps.
Part #16 in this diagram is surely the fan, though BRP designates it as an 'Inner Half Assembly'. But you can see the classic centrifugal impeller design on this part.
What is not clear to me (Opening up my CVT drive system may clear this up) is whether this fan merely circulates air within the assembly (not likely. You wouldn't need a scoop or air filter for this, I don't think) or sucks in air through the intake and blows it out through an exhaust port (which is much more likely the case).
I feel that the large increase in air volume that the K&N can flow to this cooling system will definitely be a big advantage. Not to mention the savings over the OEM paper, throw away filter and, hopefully, extended belt life.
Just to be clear, the CVT fan has nothing to do with the coolant fan. While you are able to hear the coolant fan cycle on and off. The CVT fan is always spinning whenever the engine is running. Since the CVT fan is located on the drive side of the CVT system, it will turn at engine RPM speed regardless of belt or outside air temps.
Part #16 in this diagram is surely the fan, though BRP designates it as an 'Inner Half Assembly'. But you can see the classic centrifugal impeller design on this part.
What is not clear to me (Opening up my CVT drive system may clear this up) is whether this fan merely circulates air within the assembly (not likely. You wouldn't need a scoop or air filter for this, I don't think) or sucks in air through the intake and blows it out through an exhaust port (which is much more likely the case).
I feel that the large increase in air volume that the K&N can flow to this cooling system will definitely be a big advantage. Not to mention the savings over the OEM paper, throw away filter and, hopefully, extended belt life.
Thanks for the(more)info. I also upgraded the plugs to NGK CR8EIX 4218. I will go out soon for a couple smiles. BTW I had to raise the Clam Shell to get the front plug out.
..What is not clear to me (Opening up my CVT drive system may clear this up) is whether this fan merely circulates air within the assembly (not likely. You wouldn't need a scoop or air filter for this, I don't think) or sucks in air through the intake and blows it out through an exhaust port (which is much more likely the case)...
The parts diagram seems to indicate an exhaust port in the variator housing. The diagram is to the left on the page of the one that you posted.
Part #16 is the other half of the driven clutch.. It has "blades cast in it and I'm sure it serves a somewhat dual purpose to pull air through the plastic housing but I'd more say those "blades" are used for heat dissipation and added strength. The face with the "blades" is right up against the engine so its a warm area with engine and belt heat. The cooler you can keep the clutch faces the cooler the belt runs. This means better performance and longer life.
CVT belt life
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Originally Posted by RykerUSA
x 2 There is much to be said for being conservative. Ask me about battery changeouts. 
