I've decided on the Stage 2 ecu flash from Wick-It. I sent off my ecu 5 days ago and just got word it's on the way back. With Stage 2 I understand from various sources that for best performance there needs to be greater cold air flow into the engine air box and freer flowing exhaust. For the latter I'll be removing the cat converter and installing a straight pipe.
For more cold air intake, Wick-It will be drilling 2 holes in the air filter cap. This works because that cap is near where ambient air is drawn into the bike via the air vent below the mirror on my 2014 RT. Since I previously installed the 2013 air scoop kit, there should now be plenty of cool air flow through the filter cap, the air filter and directly to the intake manifold, as seen in the attached photos.
In the first photo, we're looking straight down. The airbox snorkel can be seen slightly poking out from the left frunk panel at the center left. The opening for the air filter is in the bottom right of the photo.
Now with some 1/16" plastic sheeting, a pair of sheet metal snips, and a heat gun you could configure a baffle to capture and direct all the incoming air into the filter area.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-28-2022 at 03:17 AM.
Reason: , & in...
Hi Pete,
Put the air filter under the cap and see how much air flow space there is???
Lew L
It might not be much improvement Lew, or maybe just not as much as you'd expect from just looking at the size/placement of the holes in the lid, but those Stage II type ECU Upgrades sure don't work as well without an inlet air flow improvement, and that one seems to do it!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-29-2022 at 05:26 PM.
Drill a hole in the sides of the longer hold-down support and you should get more air. Don't make them too big or it will weaken the hold-down support. Or design a new cover out of metal that's not as restrictive? It would be interesting to know what the CFM intake is on that 1330 at various RPMs. Maybe that's why they recommend K&N.
Drill a hole in the sides of the longer hold-down support and you should get more air. Don't make them too big or it will weaken the hold-down support. Or design a new cover out of metal that's not as restrictive? It would be interesting to know what the CFM intake is on that 1330 at various RPMs. Maybe that's why they recommend K&N.
I'll consider that if needed. First, I want to check it out as is.
I can tell you that the holes make a difference. I don't have a Stage II flash, but I have a DJ PV3 with custom mapping. My first mapping was done with the stock air filter cover with a K&N filter. After awhile, I removed the lid cover and drilled out the (2) 1" holes. When riding like this, my bike farted/popped on decel. It stopped when I taped over the holes. I data logged/mapped for a second tune with the open cover/Two Bros exhaust. All popping/farting stopped.
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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Did you ride it yet?... What are your performance results?!!...inquiring minds want to know!
I just got back from a quick jaunt down some nearby country roads. Keep in mind, the only thing that's changed from stock is the stage 2 flash and holes in the airbox. I don't yet have the Cat delete pipe which is due to arrive tomorrow.
Purely subjective impression is that; a) it pulls a little harder at lower rpms and gains speed a little quicker, b) the noise from the airbox is no different (but I'm hard of hearing) and c) the power boost tapers off at higher rpms.
The cat delete should boost the higher end, I hope. Otherwise, it's a very smooth, tractable acceleration with no hesitation off idle.
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Purely subjective impression is that; a) it pulls a little harder at lower rpms and gains speed a little quicker, b) the noise from the airbox is no different (but I'm hard of hearing) and c) the power boost tapers off at higher rpms.
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You haven't really gotten into it yet Pete. Take it back out and TURN IT ON! Safely of course.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-31-2022 at 06:17 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
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Purely subjective impression is that; a) it pulls a little harder at lower rpms and gains speed a little quicker, b) the noise from the airbox is no different (but I'm hard of hearing) and c) the power boost tapers off at higher rpms.
.....
You haven't really gotten into it yet Pete. Take it back out and TURN IT ON! Safely of course.
I got up to about 95mph on a short stretch of straightaway starting at 55mph with throttle wide open in 5th, but had to back off a little for the curves. Let's see what happens after the cat delete.
Last edited by UtahPete; 07-31-2022 at 06:29 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
I got up to about 95mph on a short stretch of straightaway starting at 55mph with throttle wide open in 5th, but had to back off a little for the curves. Let's see what happens after the cat delete.
You won't see a huge difference with the cat delete I believe. Do a roll on acceleration to redline in second gear. Then grab third and do the same thing again in third. Don't go to fourth as it gets a little scary from there on. I ride with my shift points about the same as before the stage 2 install and I run ECO 90% of the time and get 40+ mpg. But, that being said, when you want the hidden power you've got it. 2up pulling a trailer and passing on an uphill grade is where stage 2 shines. No one is going to pass you except that guy in a Mopar sitting behind a Hell Cat. Most anyone can get to 95, but getting there in just a few seconds is what it's all about.
You won't see a huge difference with the cat delete I believe. Do a roll on acceleration to redline in second gear. Then grab third and do the same thing again in third. Don't go to fourth as it gets a little scary from there on. I ride with my shift points about the same as before the stage 2 install and I run ECO 90% of the time and get 40+ mpg. But, that being said, when you want the hidden power you've got it. 2up pulling a trailer and passing on an uphill grade is where stage 2 shines. No one is going to pass you except that guy in a Mopar sitting behind a Hell Cat. Most anyone can get to 95, but getting there in just a few seconds is what it's all about.
Question; isn't Stage 2 flash supposed to result in no wait time for startup after key on?
Question; isn't Stage 2 flash supposed to result in no wait time for startup after key on?
Mine is instant start up...But you still need to push the mode button to clear the start up message off dash screen...Just had my 2014 up graded from a stage 1 to the stage 2 this year...Really made a BIG difference...larryd
Mine is instant start up...But you still need to push the mode button to clear the start up message off dash screen...Just had my 2014 up graded from a stage 1 to the stage 2 this year...Really made a BIG difference...larryd
Your spyder is the perfect bank heist getaway vehicle. Just turn ON the key press the brake hit start and GO. Don't forget to release the parking brake. You don't have to mess with the mode button.
The monster flash opens the throttle 100%. https://player.vimeo.com/video/225105370
Throttle response box's are highly recommended to enhance your Spyder. You can have both.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
For spyders ECU flash is the ONLY way to go, removed the torque limiting "Stuff"
I just flashed to Stage 1 for testing will be going to Stage 2 in a week or so.
I partnered with Monster FI, and handling flashes for all the Southwest and Western States
2018 F3L Cat Delete, Two Bros Pipe, Doc Humphreys Belt Tensioner and Pedal Extender, 17" Freedom Windshield, Spyder Extras Sway Bar & End Links
For spyders ECU flash is the ONLY way to go, removed the torque limiting "Stuff"
I just flashed to Stage 1 for testing will be going to Stage 2 in a week or so.
I partnered with Monster FI, and handling flashes for all the Southwest and Western States
Excellent...I was wondering when monster fuel was going to expand to the western united states...what's the name of your shop?...and your webpage?
Just by way of info……..and this is not an anti flash post, as the flash is the perfect option for an all round solution…….I had the stage 1 (with some stage 2 influences) installed on my ‘16F3-L. It worked a treat……but……on my ‘21 RT-L I opted for the Pedal Commander in the first instance. The removal of the slight lag when you are in too low a gear, and crisper throttle response is providing everything I need, so I won’t be moving to a flash. Once again, this is not an anti flash post, just an observation.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Originally Posted by Lew L
Most anyone can get to 95, but getting there in just a few seconds is what it's all about.
