Stripped out handlebar bolt :(

[speedycoop]

I think Merlot has the best method at this time (nut would also work ). A Tig welder would be ideal, just make sure to unhook battery and ground the welder to the handlebars.

[bluewoo]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDOWPekMX44

Wish one of us could just go help him out.

[MONK]

Update: Went to the dealer today. They said it wouldn't qualify for warranty work as I was the one who messed it up, not the dealer. They couldn't remove it and said the only thing they can do is drill out the head ("hopefully without damaging the bars" according to the mechanic), remove the entire top end, finish drilling out the bolt from underneath, then reinstalling everything. About $500 worth of work. If I have someone other than a dealer mess with it and something else gets damaged, BRP won't warranty that, either and I'd be out even more money. /sigh/

[bikerbillone]

Holy you know what, there's a dilemma. That's why I'm letting the dealer install the BRM passenger rests I bought off this forum, I would sure screw something up, I'm good at that.

[PMK]

Update: Went to the dealer today. They said it wouldn't qualify for warranty work as I was the one who messed it up, not the dealer. They couldn't remove it and said the only thing they can do is drill out the head ("hopefully without damaging the bars" according to the mechanic), remove the entire top end, finish drilling out the bolt from underneath, then reinstalling everything. About $500 worth of work. If I have someone other than a dealer mess with it and something else gets damaged, BRP won't warranty that, either and I'd be out even more money. /sigh/

Not sure why the dealer would choose to drill from below. Drill off the head, remove the other bolts. Raise the handlebars and use Vice Grips or a small pipe wrench to remove the bolt stub.

Bummer you are so far away, I would do this for you, or better still teach you how while using my tools.

[LifeLongRider]

Drill off the head, remove the other bolts. Raise the handlebars and use Vice Grips or a small pipe wrench to remove the bolt stub.

A good idea but make sure to heat the stud up really well before trying to twist it our or you make break the stud again. Heat should soften up the yellow thread locker enough to get the stud out easily.

[carbonation]

That is not a 500 repair.
A welder with a tig machine and 20 minutes would have that out.
Said it before. When working with Allen or Torx the bit is the most important piece.
Still like my VIM bits. Never let me down.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Time to pursue some of the suggestions we've offered earlier.

[MONK]

Time to pursue some of the suggestions we've offered earlier.

And what happens when one of those unapproved fixes breaks something else. Then I'd still have $500 (or more) into a fix.

[PMK]

A good idea but make sure to heat the stud up really well before trying to twist it our or you make break the stud again. Heat should soften up the yellow thread locker enough to get the stud out easily.

The original poster stripped the internal wrenching flats for the Allen wrench, not snapped the head of the bolt off. If the bolt snaps, that seems like 110% a safety issue.

[PMK]

And what happens when one of those unapproved fixes breaks something else. Then I'd still have $500 (or more) into a fix.

FWIW, there are some of us here well versed, actually extremely experienced in working on stuff like this. If I had a nickel for every screw I have drilled out on an aircraft, and most stripped by other techs, I would have a lot of nickels.

Bummer it happened, but it can be correctly repaired.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

And what happens when one of those unapproved fixes breaks something else. Then I'd still have $500 (or more) into a fix.

I just looked at the handlebar casting from my 2014 RT. I replaced it with the Tri-Axis bar. There is almost 3/4" of thickness between the bolt head and the plate the handlebar mounts to. There is no need take anything more apart than the handlebar off the plate. Tell the dealer to drill the head off as he suggests. Then when the handlebar is off there is plenty of length of bolt sticking up to get a good grip with a pair of vise grips on it to screw it out just like PMK says. He should be able to do all this easily within one hour. That should be more like a $100, not $500. If he resists tell him to call one of us.

If you have a good machine shop close by go there and talk to them. They can do it just as well or better than the dealer. If you need a picture of what the handlebar looks like to see how much bolt sticks up above the plate, let me know. I can get you a couple easy.

[RICZ]

Yup....I'd do exactly what IdahoMtnSpyder suggests. Easy peasy and all you need is a drill bit slightly larger than the bolt head and a ViseGrip.

[JoshHefnerX]

Drill off the head of that bolt, remove the rest of that cap. Use the torch to heat the 'stud' that's sticking up, that should break down the locktite. This will also cause the stud to expand and once it's cool, it will contract very slightly from the walls of the threads making removal much easier.

[MONK]

I'm a little confused. (Well, a LOT confused.) If I remove all (4) bolts (whether by drilling the heads off of them or removing them the "right" way), I can remove the handlebars? If I drill the head off the jacked up bolt and remove the others the right way will there be enough clearance to get a pair of vise grips on the remaining POS bolt or will I need to disassemble other things? Honestly, my concern is that 1) I really don't know what I'm doing, 2) that I don't have the right tools, 3) I don't have a garage/carport so if I have to stop in the middle of the job (storm rolls in, I'm missing a critical tool, I get stumped), I can't just stop and 4) I don't have an confidence. (it is what it is. I've jacked up more projects than I've successfully completed. Ask me about my Kawasaki Nomaglide sometime. )

If all of the above is true, what bolt(s) do I need to replace what I have? Technically, I still have the (2) bolts that came with the Lamonster phone mount plate (which is where all this started) and could mount that but I'd like to have (4) of the correct bolts on hand, just in case. (I went a different direction with the phone mount.)

I don't supposed there's anyone in my area who knows what they're doing and has the correct tools who'd like to come over for a Saturday and at least advise. I don't mind doing the work.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

MONK, I just reviewed the process of changing the handlebar to the Tri-Axis. You are looking at a more complicated procedure than I was thinking and what I remembered. To get a good idea of getting the handlebar loose look at the first several steps of this instruction. https://instructions.brp.com/content...0344,219400414. The first thing they say to do is remove the entire front module with the dash and headlights. Now that I think back on it will be a few hours of labor. Your dealer's estimate of $500 may not be to far out of line after all.

At this point your best next step to check out is to go to a machine or muffler shop and ask about welding a bolt to the buggered up bolt head and use that to turn it loose. That will be a LOT cheaper than drilling and using vise grips. Your other affordable choice is to get a different mount and some plastic caps to cover the bolt heads so the buggered up one isn't visible.

[Peacekeeper6]

And to think that this was going to be my next mod.

Sounds like something that's too much trouble to me. Think I'm going to do the driver's backrest next.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll eventually get that bolt out, MONK. These things may take a few tries. Have patience, take a break, don't get too flustered. If you feel that you're at the end of your rope (or talent or ability), perhaps it's time to swallow your pride and ask for professional help. They say that "time is money", and that it'll be worth paying someone to do it instead of spending hours filled with aggravation and stress.

Good luck, and let us know how it went....

[merlot]

its likely a $20 fix at the muffler shop Monk.....cover everything to avoid tears from splatter,espec the cluster

russ

[bikerbillone]

My apologies Monk. I know you have enough aggravation.

[carbonation]

And to think that this was going to be my next mod.

Sounds like something that's too much trouble to me. Think I'm going to do the driver's backrest next.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll eventually get that bolt out, MONK. These things may take a few tries. Have patience, take a break, don't get too flustered. If you feel that you're at the end of your rope (or talent or ability), perhaps it's time to swallow your pride and ask for professional help. They say that "time is money", and that it'll be worth paying someone to do it instead of spending hours filled with aggravation and stress.

Good luck, and let us know how it went....

It went bad for him, unfortunately. Most of us don't have the trouble he had.

Took about 20 minutes, start to finish. No snark intended here. I feel for him. But I know that bolt is NOT impossible to get out, he just hasn't found the key for the lock yet.
IMG_0796.jpg

[FastOldGuy]

I'm a little confused. (Well, a LOT confused.) If I remove all (4) bolts (whether by drilling the heads off of them or removing them the "right" way), I can remove the handlebars? If I drill the head off the jacked up bolt and remove the others the right way will there be enough clearance to get a pair of vise grips on the remaining POS bolt or will I need to disassemble other things? Honestly, my concern is that 1) I really don't know what I'm doing, 2) that I don't have the right tools, 3) I don't have a garage/carport so if I have to stop in the middle of the job (storm rolls in, I'm missing a critical tool, I get stumped), I can't just stop and 4) I don't have an confidence. (it is what it is. I've jacked up more projects than I've successfully completed. Ask me about my Kawasaki Nomaglide sometime. )

If all of the above is true, what bolt(s) do I need to replace what I have? Technically, I still have the (2) bolts that came with the Lamonster phone mount plate (which is where all this started) and could mount that but I'd like to have (4) of the correct bolts on hand, just in case. (I went a different direction with the phone mount.)

I don't supposed there's anyone in my area who knows what they're doing and has the correct tools who'd like to come over for a Saturday and at least advise. I don't mind doing the work.

I just pulled one of my Bolts out to mount a magnetic phone mount. As you know at this point, it's a 7mm allen. Like you said, I'd Drill the Head off the Stripped one (and remove the other 3). Pull the bars up and you have plenty of room to get a set of Vice Grips on the bolt or try threading the remaining bolt and putting 2 nuts on it (one to Lock the other) and try backing it out. Heat it up a little first to break the LocTite. Or after the bars are out of the way get someone with a Tig Welder to weld a Nut to the remaining Bolt and back it out. Don't over think this, it's not huge, make a good plan and Attack It. If I was Closer, I'd gladly come help or Drive it to the Beach and I'll help you get it out. (Yes, I have Taps and a Tig Welder.)

[FastOldGuy]

its likely a $20 fix at the muffler shop Monk.....cover everything to avoid tears from splatter,espec the cluster

russ

Hang on a minute! The Original Bolt is Stainless Steel. You Can Not MIG a SS Bolt. Secondly, the Mig is going to Pop Slag everywhere and damage stuff. A TIG welder for Stainless Steel will Work "IF" you decide to Weld It.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Pull the bars up and you have plenty of room to get a set of Vice Grips on the bolt or try threading the remaining bolt and putting 2 nuts on it (one to Lock the other) and try backing it out.

Unfortunately, it's not that simple. Take a look at the instruction sheet I link to above. The big hangup is the plastic trim under the handlebar. It hides the big gap between the steering column and the dash. It's kind of like a hat with a brim that extends below the mounting plate. In order to get that piece out you have to have to remove the dash. It is fastened with screws and you have to reach up under and inside the hat to get to them. You can't get up under there with the dash in place which is why the console module has to come off.

Hang on a minute! The Original Bolt is Stainless Steel. You Can Not MIG a SS Bolt. Secondly, the Mig is going to Pop Slag everywhere and damage stuff. A TIG welder for Stainless Steel will Work "IF" you decide to Weld It.

As for welding an experienced welder will know what precautions to take to avoid spatter damage. As for the welder it's just easier to refer to it as a wire feed welder! The bolt is probably not the stainless steel you're thinking about. They are magnetic so I'm guessing they are just stainless enough to minimize rusting, like car exhaust components, but steel enough to be easily welded. That's why I keep suggesting going to a muffler shop. Those guys are welding on that type of steel all the time.

[MONK]

Assuming I let the dealer tech resolve this (if it ends up being covered under warranty, which I doubt), is there any more work involved in replacing the stock handlebars with the Tri Axis bars? Just trying to think outside the box, I guess.

[AeroPilot]

Monk, if your original intent was to use the center mount phone mount you purchased and now have another phone mount and the rest of the original 4 bolts are still intact, my choice would be just to live with the one wallowed out bolt. I may not have the whole story, but if every thing else is good - just ride it.

I probably have cosmetic issues with every mechanical device I own, but if they operate as intended, I can live with it... Your choice.