Stripped out handlebar bolt :(

[Mazo EMS2]

First I'll state that I have had a food machine repair biz for over 40 years and had to deal with way too many seized, stuck, frozen and corroded fasteners.
BRP set you up for this as they are to generous with Loctite. Here's how I'd deal with your problem....
+ Place a punch that just fits in the allen recess and with hammer, give it a few whacks.
+ Loctite will soften with heat - if using a torch be super careful you don't scorch finishes surround the bolt. Could be a hair dryer might suffice.
+ It can't hurt to put a good penetrate in the hole - not WD-40 - Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster in that order of preference.
+ I hope you have an allen socket for this step; place the socket on a wrench handle (non ratcheting is preferable) and tap the handle with a hammer.
+ If the above doesn't do the job, then it's time to drill the thing out, but you REALLY need to know what you're doing.
+ In the future, when removing fasteners that fight back, use the above steps.

^^^^^THIS^^^^^ right here!!! Getting a punch in the recess of the bolt head and a couple good whacks often times is enough. Another option is to try to reshape the head of the bolt with said punch. In other words tap on the upper part of the bolt head to reshape the recesses portion so that the allen wrench fits tightly again. Heat and a couple of good strikes with a hammer should break it free as you turn it at the same time.

[Joel The Biker]

I believe the best solution is hammering a torx socket into the stripped allen head. Apply some heat to the socket and it should come right out. The most painless solution.

[PMK]

I believe the best solution is hammering a torx socket into the stripped allen head. Apply some heat to the socket and it should come right out. The most painless solution.

Was toying that for this situation, the Torx could be good back up plan if the grinding compound failed to grip. Either way or more correctly, something needs to work to get this resolved.

[Curlytops]

You could just leave it and find another way of attaching your stuff...

[94gnatsum]

I suggest, like above, get a can of PB Blast(best thing since sliced bread). Try to spray around head and bolt. Like said previously, take a punch and whack the head a few times. Wait a few minutes and repeat. Repeat the process 5 or 6 times. Then wait. A hour or so should do. If you have and impact to use, whatever you use, start putting even sustained pressure keeping close eye on the head. If you have someone to help, have them tap on the end while applying pressure. This should work. I would try this before adding heat to locations I can't see.

[PMK]

Those persons suggesting penetrating oils should understand that the precured thread locker on the bolts also seals the threads to prevent penetrant from entering.

As for striking the bolt head, again, with thread lock compound they use, there is resistance unwinding the bolt, even after broken free.

Mr Monk, all the best with it, plenty of suggestions, based on you having limited tools, maybe simply best to take it to the dealer.

[PinkRosePetal]

And, the bolt head is hard against the bars, exactly how is the penetrating oil going to get by the head and then get a few inches further down the bolt to the threads?

Also, remember if you're pounding the bolt you're also pounding the top of a plastic steering column bearing!

Best look at the exploded diagram to see what is really taking the abuse.

[JayBros]

I agree with PMK, since it's a new bike, get it to the dealer and let them make the best of a tough situation. That precured thread locker is a to unscrew even when the locking is initially broken.

[troop]

You could just leave it and find another way of attaching your stuff...

Once it happens, I'd also be determined to correct.

[MONK]

I'm going to buy an battery power impact wrench tomorrow as well as another (good) 7mm hex and a couple good torx (T40 and T45) bits. I'm hoping all of that will break the bolt free. I'll also pick up one of those little torches. If all of that doesn't work, I'll call the dealer although I'm not sure when I'll be able to get down there between work and the stay-at-home stuff.

I really appreciate the suggestions, all. Either it's fixed by this time tomorrow or it's not. I'll let everyone know.

[RICZ]

Some battery powered impact drivers have low torque ratings. If you are going to buy one, check the torque.

[Joel The Biker]

If you put the new 7mm socket on the bolt, it can be used to direct the heat from your mini torch to the bolt. Aim the torch into the socket where the ratchet would attach. I think you will be amazed how well that will work. We use YELLOW threadlock at work and a little heat makes it almost like its not even there. Just dont get it too hot.

[MONK]

I've just spent the last hour on this bit**. I can't get the bolt to move and now I've gotten the inside of that bolt head nice and round. I've tried heat, tapping w/a hammer, impact driver, everything. I'm done. I can't even imagine what the shop will charge @ $100/hr to remove it. THIS is how most of my projects turn out. It should be illegal for me to handle tools. I think I'll sell this and buy a convertible. Seriously.

[RICZ]

Here's a trick my dad taught me.....
Have a good, sharp center punch and put a good size dimple onto the head of the bolt near its edge. Then, with the punch in the dimple, lean it to the right and smack it with a hammer so as to move the bolt in the counter-clockwise direction. I'd warm the bolt first to soften the loctite.

[MONK]

Here's a trick my dad taught me.....
Have a good, sharp center punch and put a good size dimple onto the head of the bolt near its edge. Then, with the punch in the dimple, lean it to the right and smack it with a hammer so as to move the bolt in the counter-clockwise direction. I'd warm the bolt first to soften the loctite.

With all due respect, sir, if an impact gun won't turn the bolt, I don't see how a punch will do the same. I've tried heat. I spent about $200 today in new tools, sockets, torches, etc and have nothing to show for it except frustration. I can't do this. I'm sure someone w/more talent, better tools, a garage, etc can remove the bolt. I can't. I'm not spending any more money on more tools just to find that it doesn't work, either. I'll get more frustrated when it doesn't. It'll be up for sale shortly.

I appreciate everyones help. I really do. I just don't have the talent, tools or whatever to get the job done. The next owner may have all of the above and get a screaming deal on a very low mile, basically new 2018 RT Limited.

[RICZ]

All is not lost. Contact Lamonster and see if you can return the Ram mount in exchange for a cuff mount. Then there is nothing to remove, just fasten the cuff to you handlebar.
The stripped bolt is still securing the handlebar, so no structural integrity has been lost. If you don't want to see that bolt, get a pair of hole covers at your hardware store.
Here's a link to the cuff....
http://www.lamonstergarage.com/can-a...ies-lamonster/

[davev1pa]

Really sounds nightmarish...but it makes me glad I didn't but the ram mount stem that goes in one of those 4 bolt holes....

[MONK]

RICZ---I've got the cuff. I just don't like the phone up there. Even if I never added the other RAM mount, I still know I have that busted up bolt. There are other things I want to do to the Can Am but I know I don't dare touch them for fear of messing things up. I can't afford to pay someone to do everything.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Sometimes the situation just gets the best of the toughest, smartest, most tenacious, meanest, orneriest, person, be he saint or otherwise. Feel free to be frustrated, upset, and whatever else. In a few days those feelings will subside and you'll reconsider your future action. Bite the bullet and let someone else tackle it, like a local machinist. Don't limit yourself to the dealer. He may not be any smarter than the whole lot of us who have been with you throughout this ordeal. I believe in time this frustration will pass, and the joys of riding the Spyder will allow it fade into the past.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Monk, here's what I think you should do. The best way to get a good grip on the bolt is to weld a rod onto the bolt head. That'll give you plenty of iron to get a good solid grip with a pair of Vise-Grips. I'm going to presume you are not a welder based on what you've said about your mechanical skills. So where to go to find a welder who can tackle this? A machine shop is a good possibility. Another one would be a muffler shop. Mufflers and exhaust pipes are thin and those guys use wire feed welders which can weld thin beads, just what is needed in the tight space around the bolt head. I'm not sure the bolts are stainless steel like PinkRosePetal says. I checked the ones off my 2014 that I took out when I installed the Tri-Axis bars. They are magnetic so they're either plated steel or ferritic stainless steel. Muffler guys weld on that type of stainless all the time.

Check with the dealer and see if he can get BRP to cover this as warranty item. It's an assembly defect if you can't disassemble it like you're supposed to be able to.

Good luck.

[cptjam]

What MAC said. Relax. If I had a nickel for all the fasteners I’ve ruined I’d have enough nickels to retire! It’s holding the handlebar, right? So tight NOBODY can get it off? Let it alone! Put a drop of grease in there, and go ride! You might not be a great mechanic. So what! If it still bothers you 10,000 miles later, have it fixed. Meanwhile, it just doesn’t matter!
I had a friend ask me today about my shop rate. I had assumed he was ok with wrenches. He has a sportster that leaks like the Exxon Valdez! He recognized it was beyond him, and asked for help. So, relax! Go ride!!!

[Teeman]

I worked with cap screw on Navy gear for over 40 years they can be a pain in the A--, get a subby e-z out set smack the right size in the head that might work it loss and you shouldn't round the allen out or the next thing to do is drill the bolt to relive the pressure. good luck

[94gnatsum]

I guess I'll explain more on what I wrote before. The penetrating oil will work its way down the threads to the thread sealant while tapping the head of the bolt. Repeating this several times while waiting 5-10 minutes between applications will hopefully get further and further down into the threads. The tapping on the head helps the penetrating oil to move down the threads, the time between applications allow the PB Blast dissolve the thread sealer. There is always a chance it may or may not work but I've had a ton of success in my 30+ years as an industrial mechanic applying this method. Best of luck. I hope it works out for you.

[merlot]

hi monk
can you take it to a fab shop or exhaust shop?i think this was already mentioned
have them weld an 8mm bolt into the stuck bolt
the heat from the welding process will soften the loctite and the bolt will come right out
make sure the bike is fully wrapped as splatter will ruin your day

when you finish,run a tap down the thread,then remove the yellow loctite from the new bolt and put a lower strength loctite on it

russ

[davev1pa]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

I've used this method with some success