Stripped out handlebar bolt :(

[MONK]

I got one of LaMonsters between the bars RAM mounts today and decided to install it on my 2018 RTL. How frickin' difficult could this be, right? Remove the top 2 bolts, install the mount with the 2 (supplied) longer bolts and spacers and that's it. Yeah. NOT the story of MY life. I wanted to break both the top bolts free before I got busy removing them. Got the right one just barely loose (1/16th of a turn) and went to work on the left one. I twisted and grunted and finally the wrench turned! Yea! Crap. The bolt didn't move but it stripped out the inside of the bolt head.

Obviously, once I'm able to remove the bolt, I have the replacements that came with the LaMonster mount. How in the living f*** do I remove that bolt? There's not enough room to get in there with a Dremel and cut a groove so I can use a flat head screwdriver and obviouly no way to get a set of channel locks around it, either.

Does anybody have any suggestions, please? It's not like I can't ride but I need to get that friggin' bolt out of there (preferably without damaging anything else).

(How about a DEAL? If someone comes over to remove the bolt (while I stand every bit of 6' away, inside my house, with the door closed, wearing a face mask, and gloves), I'll give them a brand new roll of generic TOILET PAPER!)

[ris]

Get a good quality Allen socket. Heat up the head of the bolt.Insert the Allen socket into the head of the bolt. Tap it with a hammer then turn it out with a ratchet.

[MONK]

Here's a pic of the bolt head. Not sure what good an Allen wrench/socket will do. I don't have a torch but I suppose I can buy one. I've got a good set of Allen's. I sure don't want to destroy 1 just to try to get this friggin' bolt out. I still don't know why it wouldn't turn. I get using blue loctite but could it have red loctite on it? Superglue? A new glue made with oxyniacilathatium? (I just made that up.)

[MrMagicFingers]

I'd use the allen wrench and strike it a few hard times with a hammer. Pick up a cheap allen wrench if you don't want to wack your good set.

Next, use the appropriate allen socket and try to TIGHTEN it a wee bit. Then go for a full on removal. You don't want to cut into the bolt to try a screw driver. You will weaken the head and it might shatter.

You have time on your side. Try some penetrating oil too.

Tim

[RICZ]

First I'll state that I have had a food machine repair biz for over 40 years and had to deal with way too many seized, stuck, frozen and corroded fasteners.
BRP set you up for this as they are to generous with Loctite. Here's how I'd deal with your problem....
+ Place a punch that just fits in the allen recess and with hammer, give it a few whacks.
+ Loctite will soften with heat - if using a torch be super careful you don't scorch finishes surround the bolt. Could be a hair dryer might suffice.
+ It can't hurt to put a good penetrate in the hole - not WD-40 - Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster in that order of preference.
+ I hope you have an allen socket for this step; place the socket on a wrench handle (non ratcheting is preferable) and tap the handle with a hammer.
+ If the above doesn't do the job, then it's time to drill the thing out, but you REALLY need to know what you're doing.
+ In the future, when removing fasteners that fight back, use the above steps.

[Revalden]

First I'll state that I have had a food machine repair biz for over 40 years and had to deal with way too many seized, stuck, frozen and corroded fasteners.
BRP set you up for this as they are to generous with Loctite. Here's how I'd deal with your problem....
+ Place a punch that just fits in the allen recess and with hammer, give it a few whacks.
+ Loctite will soften with heat - if using a torch be super careful you don't scorch finishes surround the bolt. Could be a hair dryer might suffice.
+ It can't hurt to put a good penetrate in the hole - not WD-40 - Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster in that order of preference.
+ I hope you have an allen socket for this step; place the socket on a wrench handle (non ratcheting is preferable) and tap the handle with a hammer.
+ If the above doesn't do the job, then it's time to drill the thing out, but you REALLY need to know what you're doing.
+ In the future, when removing fasteners that fight back, use the above steps.

Ricz, couldn't you heat the allen wrench in the bolt head to transfer the heat to keep from affecting the surrounding Tupperware?

[merlot]

maybe you could drill the head off it

then take out the other 3 bolts(hopefully),remove the cap and use a heat gun on the remaining stud,before you undo with multigrips(the locking kind)

those bolts are too tight otherwise......you do need a heat gun imho

russ

[Bfromla]

Here's a pic of the bolt head. Not sure what good an Allen wrench/socket will do. I don't have a torch but I suppose I can buy one. I've got a good set of Allen's. I sure don't want to destroy 1 just to try to get this friggin' bolt out. I still don't know why it wouldn't turn. I get using blue loctite but could it have red loctite on it? Superglue? A new glue made with oxyniacilathatium? (I just made that up.)

had similar problem on rear brakes while back & seriously worried about whacking caliper with hammer. Thankfully was resolved with good couple soak & sit overnight with marvel mystery oil
(great at penetrating) & EZ out opted to drill 1 size up for a better bite, a medium tap from hammer , fair amount of torque (short T handle came with ez kit) IMG_9376.jpg & luckily found replacement on eBay came with springsIMG_9379.jpg *note* few threads & no locktight.

[PinkRosePetal]

A couple of tries... Firstly, as you know it's really tight so no Micky Mouse gentle heating or using an easy-out is going to do it. The real solution is as Merlot suggests, drill off the head and remove the other bolts and the bars then use a stud extractor to remove the remains of the bolt. There will be plenty of length for you to get a purchase on and you will have room to apply serious heat.

But before doing that you could try using a torx bit just one size up from the hex size. Whack it in really hard, you may find a combination of the tight fit and hammer blows will get it done. Grind the small lead taper off the torx bit to give you a cutting edge and also to get it deep into the hex hole. An impact driver might help.

It might be possible the weld a larger nut into the top of the bolt by welding down the hole, the welding heat will help too but you're definitely into dangerous territory....

From your picture it looks as though you still have a small bit of hex within the hole and also you've not kept the tool square to the bolt shank while pulling, it's come out with a twist and pasted the hole edge. The hex size is 7mm, nothing else will do, don't try removing the other bolts unless you've got the exact size in a quality hex driver. No Imperial equivalent!

Good luck with it...

[MrMagicFingers]

You can add heat to the equation though it would be tricky. If you use a mini torch you can add heat to it in a precise manor.

Mini torches may not have a huge flame but they can produce a small, manageable hot flame. Aiming this into the bolt head will transfer heat down the bolt shaft. You may have to cycle it as in 20 second heat and 20 seconds off repeated if you feel that something may be damaged. Doing that along with a set of "easy outs" that that Bfromla had shown above should work.

Drilling should be a last resort.

Tim

0141010.jpg 8870057.jpg

[MONK]

Thanks for the replies, guys and gals. A bit more info about me. I don't have a garage (or carport) and my tools are limited. I don't have a torch although I can get one of those mini torches MrMagicFingers mentioned. I've got some decent Torx bits so maybe between heating up the bolt head and beating the crap out of the Torx bit, I can get it free.

merlot mentioned something about removing the other bolts and then removing the bars. I didn't think the bars could be removed on an RT w/o removing most of the front tupperware?

Unfortunately, I'm one of those guys who can bugger up even the simplest task. I wouldn't dare try to drill anything out. The modifications I've done/are doing are simple unbolt the old/bolt on the new kind of things. It was all simple until this.

[bodymanpainter]

You can add heat to the equation though it would be tricky. If you use a mini torch you can add heat to it in a precise manor.

Mini torches may not have a huge flame but they can produce a small, manageable hot flame. Aiming this into the bolt head will transfer heat down the bolt shaft. You may have to cycle it as in 20 second heat and 20 seconds off repeated if you feel that something may be damaged. Doing that along with a set of "easy outs" that that Bfromla had shown above should work.

Drilling should be a last resort.

Tim

0141010.jpg 8870057.jpg

This is the best idea so far, and yes I own a body shop and deal with this quite often, so be careful and
it should work for you.
Toby

[MrMagicFingers]

You can do this safely and without setting fire to your Spyder!

All that needs to happen is enough heat to be transferred down the shaft of the bolt. You do NOT need to make that bolt head cherry red or anything remotely like that. 20 second on and 20 off... repeated. All that need s to happen is the locktight needs to soften, if that's whats going on here. You only make things real hot if you dealing with stuff that's been bonded by rust.

Once you figured that it had properly heated up... try the allen key again. If that does not work... heat cycle again and try again.

The torches are cheap. We can get them at Princess Auto (very much like your Harbour Freight) for $10-$15.

Don't use any penetrating oil at this point as that is usually flammable. Clean it up first if you have.

Let us know how you do!

Tim

[carbonation]

Good luck. I installed that mount a while back.
My bolts were tight, but I had really good allen bits on a 3/8 breaker bar. After the initial break, they backed right out with a ratchet.
You have to have good bits though. Any deviation, wiggle, slop on the bolt, and you'll round it or deform it because the bit will always be harder than the fastener.
I like my set of VIM bits. They have never failed.
I agree you need heat at this point. The micro torch is a good idea.

[woods]

I believe I have seen threads where a soldering iron was used to heat bolt. Certainly take longer than mini torch but no flame!

[arachnyd]

i did this project a couple weeks ago.

here are the tools i used.

IMG_2039_Fotor.jpg

i started with the impact driver, hitting a few times. then turned it out with a breaker bar.

look at your Allen key socket. some have a chamfer on the end which limits the contact surface area. i think a more square end has better contact.
the impact driver keeps the bit seated to the bottom while the bolt is turned. it may also break the thread sealant loose.
i had an electric soldering iron ready to heat up the bolt in case it seemed like i was failing.

good luck
ba

[cptjam]

I believe I have seen threads where a soldering iron was used to heat bolt. Certainly take longer than mini torch but no flame!

That’s what I use. Zero danger. Once it is hot, use a 7mm Allen socket, tap in position, remove bolt with a 3/8 breaker bar.

[Haze]

i did this project a couple weeks ago.

here are the tools i used.

IMG_2039_Fotor.jpg

i started with the impact driver, hitting a few times. then turned it out with a breaker bar.

look at your Allen key socket. some have a chamfer on the end which limits the contact surface area. i think a more square end has better contact.
the impact driver keeps the bit seated to the bottom while the bolt is turned. it may also break the thread sealant loose.
i had an electric soldering iron ready to heat up the bolt in case it seemed like i was failing.

good luck
ba

I too have used an impact driver and allen key socket.

[Revalden]

if you do end up trying to drill the head off be sure the other bolts break free FIRST. You should heat them up before trying. Good luck.

[MONK]

I don't know who I've thanked and who I haven't so let this substitute for individual "thank you"s.

I have one of those little torches on order. I'll pick it up Saturday along with a can of butane and I guess one of those impact hammer things. I might pick up another 7mm Allen bit if I can find one individually.

I have another unanswered question. If I remove all 4 of those damnable bolts, can I remove the handlebars? I was under the impression that the only bars that were simply unboltable were the F3s and 2020 RTs, not the 2010-2019 RTs.

[SpyderAnn01]

You are correct only the F3 and 20 RT have regular, easily removable bars. It’s a big project on your RT. Good luck!

[MONK]

Thanks for the clarification/confirmation, SpyderAnn01. There were a few posts up there ^^^ that suggested removing the "good" bolts, drilling the head of the "bad" one and removing the bars. I just wanted to eliminate that line of thinking before I did something (else) dumb.

[PMK]

If it were me, and obviously I am not nearby to actually see how bad the fastener head has become, yes, heat can help.

But this can work also. Use coarse grit lapping compound into the hex opening. Not a lot, simply a thin film as needed applied with a Q Tip. Reinsert a good quality 7mm Allen socket, seat it fully with a couple light taps, then install the breaker bar, wiggle a couple times then reseat the Allen socket. Ideally the compound adds grip and tightens the fit allowing tne bolt to remove at this point.

[imfleck]

I too have used an impact driver and allen key socket.

Me too! Me too! Seriously, it was the ONLY way I was able to get those bolts out. Bonus: You can really get all of your frustrations out by pounding the living c#$p out of it!

[PinkRosePetal]

If you use a manual impact driver, remember you're pounding the top of the steering too!


I'll be interested to know whether you get anywhere with the heat because the bolt is stainless steel and it is a very poor heat conductor. The bolt head is hard fast against the metal of the bars and they are aluminium which is a very good heat conductor. I bet you heat the bars considerably more than the bolt thread.

PMK's grinding past idea is a good one.