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  1. #1
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    Default 2010 RT/S SE5 will not shift

    Good morning tribe,
    My unit will not come out of reverse.
    Shifting was erratic just b4 issue
    Also was clunking on acceleration
    Any issues that I can troubleshoot first,
    Really do not want to bring to dealer due to their incompetence in the past
    I am assuming clutch is ok since it is grabbing no problem,
    And issue is with shifting,I am not familiar with how se5 is configured but assume the 3 main parts are paddle , control module and some sort of actuator in tranny.
    If anyone has insight to my delema please enlighten me!!!

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Good Morning Tortuga,

    I know that with the SE trans that OIL Level is important.
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  3. #3
    Active Member TexAmRider's Avatar
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    Yep, Check the oil Level. Mine did that one time and its was low oil level.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tortuga View Post
    Good morning tribe,
    My unit will not come out of reverse.
    Shifting was erratic just b4 issue
    Also was clunking on acceleration
    Any issues that I can troubleshoot first,
    Really do not want to bring to dealer due to their incompetence in the past
    I am assuming clutch is ok since it is grabbing no problem,
    And issue is with shifting,I am not familiar with how se5 is configured but assume the 3 main parts are paddle , control module and some sort of actuator in tranny.
    If anyone has insight to my delema please enlighten me!!!
    2016 RTS Special Triple Black, BRP Freedom Trailer, Spyder Pops Rear Lighting Kit, Spyder Pops Full view Turn Signals, Trunk Light, Rivco Highway Pegs. Doc's Spring Tensioners, Trunk Organizer, Magic Mirrors, Foam Grips, back to Stock Windsheild, Lamonsters cat delete, Bajaron sway bar, More Farkles to come !!

  4. #4
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    I do not know if this would apply to the RT but I have had my reverse lockout switch replaced twice on my '15 F3-S SE6. Both were replaced because my transmission wouldn't shift.
    2020 F3 Ltd

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  5. #5
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    was the check engine light on? If so I would suspect shifting paddle.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Hi T. Since this is your first post, I'm assuming that this is a new to you RT. So, this document should help you understand how the SE5 works.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/13kC...ew?usp=sharing

    And that explains why low oil level can be an issue - because it causes a low oil pressure inside of the HCM and the cylinders can't move the linkage. Plus, the engine has to be running. It doesn't mean that there can't be other mechanical issues, but look at the simple stuff first. Another quick check is to look under the left side of the machine at that linkage shown on the last page and make sure that the linkage and arm is attached to the shifter shaft. It can't shift if the linkage arm falls off. It happens.

    Because it is already in reverse, the reverse lockout is not at play here. And, unless you've had the engine idling for the past 8 hours, I'm also assuming that the engine is not running right now. So, to begin, check the oil level cold. That's OK. We need to establish a rough level. When cold, you're just looking for it to be barely showing on the dipstick at the low mark. Now, to start the engine with it in gear - any gear but Neutral - your foot has to be firmly on the brake. When the engine starts, about a second later after oil pressure in the HCM builds up, the tranny will shift itself into Neutral. You won't have to shift it, it will do it itself. If the engine starts, but it doesn't shift into Neutral with good oil level, it's not a paddle shifter issue, it goes deeper than that. HCM solenoids, cylinders and the TCM, have been known to fail, also.

    But before we get overloaded, let's just check oil level, that the linkage is intact, and that the engine will start and shift itself into Neutral.


    Doug

    2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic

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  7. #7
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    Thanks Doug I was on a washboard Road just before this happened I'm going to crawl under and check the linkage tonight it's due for an oil change so I'll probably do it all this weekend it's parked in the car port for now I have actually on the bike for eight years it's kind of a spare I use now and then with the wife I've just never had any issues with it since I first got it a couple years old all the problems were taking care of it being at Premier Edition there were a few issues

  8. #8
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    Doug it ended up being linkage it was barely attached and only on outside splines with keeper bolt tight but outside of groove
    The only person ever in this bike has been the can am dealer

  9. #9
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Although your bolt may be tight now it may have been loose at one time allowing the shift arm to move on the shaft. Since the arm is softer then the shaft it is possible that the splines on the shaft are worn to the point that they will no longer stay put on the shaft. I would look closely at the arm with the idea of replacing it. $35.00 will get you a new one. I had the same problem with my 2012.

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  10. #10
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Hey T. Glad you found it. Yep, this happens. You've probably got it back on by now, but there are two things to note. As you've already determined, the bolt goes into the groove cut in the shaft. And you saw it was tight. Outward appearances would make one think that the bolt also pinches or squeezes the hole tight against the shaft. Well, even though there is a slot cut into the arm, it's still a solid piece of metal all the way around. There's very little, if any, pinching action going on here. Over time and vibration, wear on the bolt and splines seems to allow enough clearance to allow the bolt to jump the groove and the arm to fall off. Provided that it was installed correctly in the first place. This happens way too often on these machines and could leave a person stranded in the middle of nowhere. So, yeah, replacement of the arm and bolt - even experiment with a slightly larger diameter bolt - will increase your reliability.

    Second - the slot in the arm serves a purpose. Look right at the end of the shaft and you will see a dot - a punch mark. Align the dot with the slot when you re-install the arm. This puts the shift shaft into alignment with the linkage so that it rotates the proper distance in both directions.

    Sounds like you're not a fan of your dealer. If you're interested, a shop manual for these things is available for around 20 bucks. Check eBay. Download or CD. Good luck. Stay virus free.


    Doug

    2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic

    ”Freedom is not a loophole”

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  11. #11
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    This happened to my '15 ST L.
    Had it towed to the dealers where they found the problem. it's something I'll be keeping an eye on.
    Glad you found the issue.
    Pam

    2020 F3 T


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  12. #12
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    This happened to me AGAIN! July 28 / 2019 and May 2 / 2020. 2015 ST L with under 21,000 kms on it.
    The first time the cable fell off they just reattached it I guess.
    My first ride for this season and I was 11.5 kms from home.
    Thankfully both times i was rescued by someone with trucks and trailers.
    Bike is still at the dealership and I want it fixed right this time.
    Hopefully today I'll hear from them on what they will do.
    Makes me nervous about going on a long rise by myself now.
    Pam

    2020 F3 T


    I like nonsense, it wakes up the brain cells.
    Fantasy is a necessary ingredient in living.
    Dr. Seuss

    2020 F3 T - Liquid Titanium

    Previously owned
    - 2015 ST L
    - 1997 Suzuki Marauder VZ 800
    2015 ST L , Denim - matte

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