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  1. #1
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    Default 2010 Spyder pros and cons

    I have an op to buy an extremely low milage 2010 for a really good price and hope you could give me some good and bad for that generation.

  2. #2
    Active Member Elwood58's Avatar
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    Low mileage is the first red flag. You will need to change oil, brake fluid, coolant, hoses and tires to start. Other than that, it may need software updates, which requires the shop hooking up to BUDS System at BRP. It will have the 998cc engine versus 1330cc. We love our V-Twin though.
    2012 Viper Red RT-S (Sold)
    2020 Ryker Rally
    2023 Plasma Red F3 Limited

  3. #3
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderup View Post
    I have an op to buy an extremely low milage 2010 for a really good price and hope you could give me some good and bad for that generation.
    Make sure you run the VIN on that bike and verify the miles. Changing out the cluster will zero the miles.
    2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)

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    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  4. #4
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    I think the 2010 had throttle body issues at one time...Do a search...Or maybe some previous owners may chime in???? larryd

  5. #5
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    You might need to specify if it is a RS or RT series.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Mazo EMS2's Avatar
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    Our first Spyder was a 2010 RT SM5. We had to change the cluster in it, and I replaced the vac hoses on it...and of course the routine maintenance other than that it was fun n flawless. Do what's been suggested though. Anything rubber will need to be checked over, certainly drain the fuel tank, change the oil, check those tires!!! Brake fluid is probably fine, coolant is probably fine, but give it a good look-see
    2021 RT Limited

    2016 RTS , Pearl White

  7. #7
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I had a 2010 RTS. It was the premier edition of the RT model. An upgrade from the RS models. The comparison in those days was crotch rocket vs. gold wing couch.

    I put 36K miles on that one. Traded off in 2014 for the new 1330.

    I also purchased a new 2011 for Linda in 2012. She put 30K miles on that and drove it until 2019. We had zero issues with it.

    My only mechanical issues were throttle body, and wonky gas gauge. TB issues caused the bike to hesitate starting when it was hot. An easy under warranty fix. The gas gauge was attemped to be fixed two times under warranty. Both unsuccessful. I disconected the gauges and went to digital. No other issues.

    Recommended to have a dealer run the VIN number. The service (or lack of) history, will tell the tale. There are some good ones and some bad ones out there. Don't hit the jackpot in the wrong way.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 04-13-2020 at 11:05 AM.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  8. #8
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    We bought a 2010 RT-S SE5 privately just before christmas at 96,000km. Its an amazing bike and the couple of issues we've had are inconsequential. It had just had a full service including valve clearances and replacing a few bits. The guy who sold it to us bought it new. Only problem he mentioned was oil usage from new, about 100cc/1000km. Always used dealer supplied oil. I couldn't understand the factory oil recommendation for this engine. Why semi-synthetic and why such low viscosity, particular here in Oz where our temperature range is usually 10C-40C. I changed to Silkolene Pro 4 15W-50 XP fully synthetic after about 3000km and it hasn't used a drop in the last 5000km. Found out this is the oil spec for the same engine in Aprilia motorcycles. Changes are nicer too. Had a clutch hub failure - it broke. Didnt cost a lot to replace along with seals and o'rings. Clutch plates were surprisingly well within spec thickness. Other than that the left indicator only occasionally worked. I pulled the switch assembly apart and found the microswitch wasn't being pushed far enough due to the 4-way switchblock being a little loose. The block is for paddle shift one side and indicators the other. I made a small gasket from thin cardboard to tighten it up and it worked perfectly. One annoying thing was that when it was hot, after starting it up after sitting the engine would stumble a bit on the first take-off only. i found the fuel was REALLY HOT. so I have put some more heat shielding on the tank and put exhaust wrap on the headers where they pass close to the fuel tank.
    2014 RT Limited , Pearl White

  9. #9
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    Pretty much same as buying any older vehicle with low mileage .. if it starts well and runs well from cold to hot and everything works no probs... you may have a bit of spanner work further down the line but if the price is right and all seems well go for it. Id change all the fluids and run it.

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