Before I became a member of the forum I saw a discussion (debate) on the best way to lift the Ryker for maintenance. I think the Big Blue lift is the way to go for the following reasons
1. It gets you off your hands and knees taking the strain off your back. You can remove wheels change oil etc. while standing (or sitting).
2 It gives you a clear view of the under side of the Ryker for maintenance.
3 No compressor required to lift or lower it just a drill.
4 Safety. I purchased one and to me it was money well spent.
If you like using a floor jack and jack stands for maintenance on the Ryker there is nothing wrong with that. I just think the Big Blue Lift is the right tool for the job.
Info on Big Blue can be found at lifts-and-stands.com
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-09-2020 at 06:40 PM.
Reason: Fixed pic & display
Are you able to torque the wheel nuts to 250 ft lbs while its up on that lift? I would be afraid of it falling off while trying to loosen/tighten the wheel nuts.
Are you able to torque the wheel nuts to 250 ft lbs while its up on that lift? I would be afraid of it falling off while trying to loosen/tighten the wheel nuts.
I wouldn't do that on any lift.
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Are you able to torque the wheel nuts to 250 ft lbs while its up on that lift? I would be afraid of it falling off while trying to loosen/tighten the wheel nuts.
Aren't the wheels going to turn while you try to tighten or loosen the nut. You do that on the ground, not on the lift.
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For safety reasons you have three (3) choices when using the Big Blue Lift (or floor jack ) during Ryker wheel removal. 1) If you are using a breaker bar or OLD torque wrench loosen the wheel nuts (not remove) before lifting. 2) If you are using a impact wrench you can loosen the wheel nut and remove the wheel in the raised position. 3) My choice - Always use choice number one (1) regardless of tool used. On a side note: Never use your primary torque wrench as a breaker bar. It will ruin the calibration.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-10-2020 at 02:46 PM.
Reason: Fixed attach display
Aren't the wheels going to turn while you try to tighten or loosen the nut. You do that on the ground, not on the lift.
As mentioned already, the Ryker wheel nuts need to be locked with a wrench in a slot to keep the wheels from moving when loosening/tighening the nuts. Even when sitting on the ground the wheels would spin if this is not done.
As mentioned already, the Ryker wheel nuts need to be locked with a wrench in a slot to keep the wheels from moving when loosening/tighening the nuts. Even when sitting on the ground the wheels would spin if this is not done.
Unfortunately there isn't an attachment for a F3. I talked to the rep here in Canada about getting one for my Big Blue (I have an RT but work on all Spyders out of my garage) and with the positioning of the rear shock they were not able to make an attachment that would work.