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Battery Replacement 2015-RT-Limited
Hello:
I am curious how difficult it is to replace the OEM Battery with another OEM Yuasa Battery? I have a battery tender and a Jump Starting port connected to the current battery.
Due to CoronaVirus we cannot travel to Lamonster Garage or Pitbull to get a new battery and have it installed.
Are there any video’s available that show how to do it. I am mechanically inclined and have small hands but a bad back so think I should be able to do it myself but wanted to see if you all had any advice.
Thank you in advance!
2015 RT-Limited SE6-TricLED Fender LED's (Red and Amber), 3rd LED Brake Light/Tail Light, ISCI Handbrake with black small hands handle,Spyderpops Rock Guard. ,Can-Am Adjustable Wing Vents, Bumpskid, Bajaron's Sway-Bar with metal Heim Joints. Elkas Stage 2 Plus., TricLED Wide-VU Mirrors, TricLED Jumper Port, Laser Aligned!
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They are pretty easy to do. Two screws (Torx) in the frunk remove the battery cover. Remove battery strap. Loosen/remove battery terminal screws. Lift battery out.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by trikermutha
They are pretty easy to do. Two screws (Torx) in the frunk remove the battery cover. Remove battery strap. Loosen/remove battery terminal screws. Lift battery out.
Lifting the Battery out will be the hardest part, it's in there pretty tight and it's a little heavy .... re-connect everything ....BUT before you do that get some STAR washers and put them on the terminals before tightening them .... Spyders SHAKE and loose terminals are a common problem ..... good luck ..... do you know someone who could lift it out for you ???? ..... Mike
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by trikermutha
They are pretty easy to do. Two screws (Torx) in the frunk remove the battery cover. Remove battery strap. Loosen/remove battery terminal screws. Lift battery out.
Add one more step. Pull the battery cables up and out of the way as much as you can to keep them from getting in between the battery and the top of the opening. Oh, and tilt the battery forward before lifting it.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
See the instructions on pg 130-131 of your operator's guide; it is a very easy job. There are two flat prongs on the rearward edge of the battery hold down plate that sits atop the battery and is held in place by the rubber strap at the front of the battery. The prongs must fit into two slots on the upper rear wall of the battery compartment. In my experience that was the most difficult job, getting them positioned correctly, but that is only because visibility is a bit restricted because you're working at the bottom rear of the frunk. I used a mirror to help me guide them in place.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Yeah I will agree a bit a fiddling to lift and tilt the battery but for the most part its pretty simple. Moving the cables are a must too.
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Active Member
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Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Lifting the Battery out will be the hardest part, it's in there pretty tight and it's a little heavy .... re-connect everything ....BUT before you do that get some STAR washers and put them on the terminals before tightening them .... Spyders SHAKE and loose terminals are a common problem ..... good luck ..... do you know someone who could lift it out for you ???? ..... Mike
A big +1 for STAR washers. When I was in the Pro Audio business, STAR washers solved a multitude of problems
from mounting connections to bad grounds (noise). A miracle cure and must have for all audio rack building.
Gary
2017 RTL Asphalt Gray Metalic
1987 BMW K75s
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Very Active Member
I'm 169 miles from you, if it was worth it to you to ride or trailer it down here I would be happy to do it for you. My wife won't let me out of the house these days.
2015 RTS SE6 Special Series Red/Black w/Magnesium front fenders(bought in Nov. 2018 w/9,400 miles)
Dynojet Power Commander V, Power Commander POD-300 Display, PCV Map Switch, Pedal Commander (WOW)
Passenger Arm Rests, Windshield Air Wing
Baja Ron's Sway Bar & Spring Adjusters
Air Scoops, LaMonster's Hiway Pegs
Magnetic Mirror Mounts, Air Innovations Seat Cushion
Red Chrome pin striping on Black hood
Federal Formoza AZ01 front tires (they're GREAT)
Kumho Ecsta AST KU25 All-Season Tire - 225/50R15 91H
LED bars above radiator inlets
LED brake/running/turn signals on license plate frame
Tag-Along trailer
LED headlights LED fog lights (WOW)
2" x 2" Road Lights inside front fenders
7' x 10' Cargo trailer
Garmin 396 LM GPS
RLS Cat-delete resonator with China Akropovic muffler
New Banshee AGM
M3 TPMS on front tires
Remote Control for Heated Jacket and Heated Riding Pants
Analog Clock and Analog Volt Meter
Loose Nut Behind Handlebars
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Revalden
I'm 169 miles from you, if it was worth it to you to ride or trailer it down here I would be happy to do it for you. My wife won't let me out of the house these days.
What a generous offer! I don't even know you, but thank you for being such a nice guy!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by triplethreat
What a generous offer! I don't even know you, but thank you for being such a nice guy!
Thank you. If it weren't for this damn virus I would have just ridden up there. I'm retired and have too much time on my hands and don't usually have enough money to do Management's Honey-Do s. If anyone else has something they don't know how to do, ya'll are welcome to come on over/up/down. I can also do the Vents on your Spyder, might take a couple of hours to do. I've even thought of loading our little trailer with some of the most used tools and do a mobile mechanic type of deal.
2015 RTS SE6 Special Series Red/Black w/Magnesium front fenders(bought in Nov. 2018 w/9,400 miles)
Dynojet Power Commander V, Power Commander POD-300 Display, PCV Map Switch, Pedal Commander (WOW)
Passenger Arm Rests, Windshield Air Wing
Baja Ron's Sway Bar & Spring Adjusters
Air Scoops, LaMonster's Hiway Pegs
Magnetic Mirror Mounts, Air Innovations Seat Cushion
Red Chrome pin striping on Black hood
Federal Formoza AZ01 front tires (they're GREAT)
Kumho Ecsta AST KU25 All-Season Tire - 225/50R15 91H
LED bars above radiator inlets
LED brake/running/turn signals on license plate frame
Tag-Along trailer
LED headlights LED fog lights (WOW)
2" x 2" Road Lights inside front fenders
7' x 10' Cargo trailer
Garmin 396 LM GPS
RLS Cat-delete resonator with China Akropovic muffler
New Banshee AGM
M3 TPMS on front tires
Remote Control for Heated Jacket and Heated Riding Pants
Analog Clock and Analog Volt Meter
Loose Nut Behind Handlebars
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Very Active Member
When removing you should First remove the - Negative lead and then the + Positive Lead
Whilst undoing the + Lead if you were to accidentally touch any metal part with you wrench it will not short out the battery
Once you put the New Battery in you should Connect the + Positive Lead first followed by the - Negative Lead for the same reason as before
I put tape over the terminals once the Leads had been removed to ensure the disconnected Leads could not make connection until i got the battery out
And put tape on the new battery terminals until it was in place and I was ready to reconnect the Leads
Eddie Sheppard
Poole Dorset UK
Get a Spyder - See the World
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Great, informative thread. Does the same procedure apply to a 2014 RT? I removed the rubber battery keeper, leads and the top bracket but my battery just won't tip forward or budge in any direction.
Thank you!
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Your battery is fitted back into what's effectively a 'battery sized slot', so 'tilting' it won't work!! You need to pull it straight forward (towards the front of the Spyder) until it's bottom front edge is fairly flush with the lip at the bottom; then just lift the battery only enough to clear that bottom lip before you pull it forward & out. . You MIGHT be able to tilt it back a little at the top once you get it flush with the bottom lip, but don't count on it!
Success!! The bottom edges of the battery were hanging up on the bodywork directly in front of them. Using vise grips on both terminals, I pulled straight out with all I had and the battery came out sideways. I measured the old battery against the new Yuasa I put in and it was about 5mm taller. The new battery slid right in easily. Tomorrow it's off the the hardware store for some star washers and all will be good.
Thank you again for your advice
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