Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    17
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Limp Home / Codes P0504 & P061E / Blown Fuses

    Looking for some help.

    2017 RTS SE6 8000 miles

    Bike ran fine when last ridden 3 months ago. Had to replace the battery before going for a ride today (Yuasa battery went bad after only 11 months... had been maintained with trickle charger).
    After riding about 5 miles the Limp Home Mode alarm/message came on... and the Check Engine message came on. Turned around... on the way back home the VSS dash light came on.
    Got home and started troubleshooting. Codes P0504 & P061E... both Brake/ECM related. Found 2 blown fuses in the right fuse box... #1-Day Lights/Parking Lamps/Plate Lights... #2-Brake Lights.
    Replaced fuses... started bike... no brake lights... both fuses blown again.

    Any Ideas?

    Thanks,
    Greg

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Chardon, OH
    Posts
    725
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Unattended for 3 months over the winter. Then blows fuses. My vote goes for rodent damage. If you agree Greg, then the best you can do is just strip it down and go over it with a fine tooth comb, checking if any wiring has been chewed on. You already have a pretty good idea which circuits are affected.


    Doug

    2012 Spyder RT LTD Lava Bronze, RT 622

    Original Owner

    Seal Pups, F4 Customs SWCV, Corbin, JT's Air Filter, Cat Bypass, Power Commander V, NBV, SpyderFlap, Rivco Dual Flag Holder, Lidlox, Baja Ron Sway Bar, links, plugs and wires, Adjustable Chrome Side Vents, Spyderpops Block Off Plate and Belt Guard, Bump Skid, Canisterectomy, Akrapovic, TricLed HL/FL, Spyder Cuff with X-Grip, S-Drive, Rock Armour, P238, Laser Alignment by Gray Ghost, Windshield Arm by Noboot, Vibration Dampener by Doc.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    6,982
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gjklockhart View Post
    (Yuasa battery went bad after only 11 months... had been maintained with trickle charger).
    Trickle charger or battery maintainer? A trickle charger will kill a battery. There is a distinct difference between the two.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    17
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Thanks Doug... but I don't suspect rodent damage at all. I've never seen any evidence of mice in the place where I keep the bike... but that is something to keep in mind. I suspect a brake switch or something along that line instead.

    IdahoMtnSpyder... I have a Battery Tender Jr.
    Is that a trickle charger or a maintainer?

  5. #5
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    6,982
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gjklockhart View Post
    IdahoMtnSpyder... I have a Battery Tender Jr.
    Is that a trickle charger or a maintainer?
    That is well regarded maintainer.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  6. #6
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    NEBRASKA
    Posts
    39
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    What's the difference being trickle and / or maintaining?

  7. #7
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    soutwest oHIo
    Posts
    31
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    A trickle charger (manual or automatic) will constantly send current to the battery. A manual unit will keep sending whatever its rating is, an automatic one will drop to a lower value when it senses full charge, but will still send current.

    A battery maintainer will charge at its rated current until it senses near full charge, then switch to a lower current until the battery is fully charged. Then it turns OFF, but still monitors battery voltage. If the voltage drops below a threshold, it will come ON again to top off the battery.

    A constant incoming current will kill a battery, but the intermittent charge keeps it topped off beautifully.

    .

  8. #8
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central VERMONT
    Posts
    13,836
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve W. View Post
    A trickle charger (manual or automatic) will constantly send current to the battery. A manual unit will keep sending whatever its rating is, an automatic one will drop to a lower value when it senses full charge, but will still send current.

    A battery maintainer will charge at its rated current until it senses near full charge, then switch to a lower current until the battery is fully charged. Then it turns OFF, but still monitors battery voltage. If the voltage drops below a threshold, it will come ON again to top off the battery.

    A constant incoming current will kill a battery, but the intermittent charge keeps it topped off beautifully.

    .
    .... On my Cobra the battery is very, very inaccessible .... over a cold VT winter I left it on a ...One Amp trickle charger .... bad move , it fried a 12v full size auto battery .... a MAINTAINER won't do that .... Rodent damage is highly likely, if it was the brake switch I think you would have noticed the light being on ..... good luck .... Mike

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    17
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    OK
    I removed the body panels.
    No sign of mouse chewed wires.
    I have a trailer wiring harness installed so I unplugged that to rule out any problems with that.
    Re-installed the battery and a Brake circuit fuse.
    Started the bike... blew the fuse.
    Still showing codes P061E and P0504... both brake related.
    I unplugged both wiring plugs going to the Brake Switch, put in another fuse, and started the engine. Of Course I got a Brake Failure message... but the fuse did not blow.
    Does this indicate a problem with the Brake Light Switch? If so, is there anything I can do to test it?
    This bike is still under warranty for a few more months... but the last thing I want to do is take it to my local dealer... they sell Spyders but I don't think they have anyone trained on them.
    Thanks for the replies so far... but I'm still without a clue.
    Greg

  10. #10
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    6,982
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gjklockhart View Post
    OK
    I removed the body panels.
    No sign of mouse chewed wires.
    I have a trailer wiring harness installed so I unplugged that to rule out any problems with that.
    Re-installed the battery and a Brake circuit fuse.
    Started the bike... blew the fuse.
    Still showing codes P061E and P0504... both brake related.
    I unplugged both wiring plugs going to the Brake Switch, put in another fuse, and started the engine. Of Course I got a Brake Failure message... but the fuse did not blow.
    Does this indicate a problem with the Brake Light Switch? If so, is there anything I can do to test it?
    This bike is still under warranty for a few more months... but the last thing I want to do is take it to my local dealer... they sell Spyders but I don't think they have anyone trained on them.
    Thanks for the replies so far... but I'm still without a clue.
    Greg
    What was the situation with the parking light fuse during the above testing? Does that fuse blow even when the wires are disconnected from the brake switch? Do the hazard lights work correctly with the brake switch disconnected.

    If you haven't already go to canammanuals.com and buy the manual for your Spyder. The wiring diagram can help tremendously in troubleshooting.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    6,982
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Looking at the wiring diagram for the 2014 RT, which is probably pretty much the same for your 2017, a possibility may be a failed brake/tail light unit. Very unlikely though. I don't think anyone has reported one failing. Both circuits feed into that LED assembly and have a common ground. Do a test by disconnecting both tail lights, then connect the brake switch and replace the fuses. If nothing blows up connect the lights, one at a time, and see if the fuses blow with one of them connected. Check all the wires and connectors under the passenger seat and in the rear lights area below the trunk. There may be a shorted wire or connector there somewhere. One of the causes of a VSS error is a disconnected passenger sensor.

    If you haven't done so already, go to an auto parts store and buy a supply of fuses. You're going to need them to get this all figured out!

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  12. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    17
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Thanks Idaho,
    I don't know if the hazard lights worked or not... I didn't think to try them.
    I am out of fuses... ordered a supply this evening... I'll have to wait a couple of days before I can look at it some more.
    Thanks

  13. #13
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Bossier loUiSiAna
    Posts
    4,220
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gjklockhart View Post
    OK
    I removed the body panels.
    No sign of mouse chewed wires.
    I have a trailer wiring harness installed so I unplugged that to rule out any problems with that.
    Re-installed the battery and a Brake circuit fuse.
    Started the bike... blew the fuse.
    Still showing codes P061E and P0504... both brake related.
    I unplugged both wiring plugs going to the Brake Switch, put in another fuse, and started the engine. Of Course I got a Brake Failure message... but the fuse did not blow.
    Does this indicate a problem with the Brake Light Switch? If so, is there anything I can do to test it?
    This bike is still under warranty for a few more months... but the last thing I want to do is take it to my local dealer... they sell Spyders but I don't think they have anyone trained on them.
    Thanks for the replies so far... but I'm still without a clue.
    Greg
    Under warranty pic a dealer let them get the headache Sounds like you got good start on narrowing it down & there were some bad switches on some STís one may have gone your way.

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
    SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
    SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
    T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ &brake light strips,
    wide vue mirrors
    Lid lox
    sawblade mowhalk fender accents
    minispyder dash toy
    Pakitrack
    GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
    FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
    BRP trailer hitch & 622 trailer (with its own list: Spyderpops Lighted Rear Bumpskid, LineX protection on sides, led trim lighting amber front& red rear, stand& tongue handle)THX Cruzr Joe!
    (pics in album)

  14. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    17
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    With two more fuses left I did the following:
    Unplugged the connectors to the [Brake Light Switch & the Low Pressure Switch... started the engine... Hazard Lights worked and NO blown fuse in F2 (Brake Light/Hazard) (right fuse box)
    I tested the BLS & LPS with an ohm meter. Both were normally open and then closed when the brake pedal was pushed... so I'm guessing they're OK.
    I dis-connected both tail light assemblies... connected the just the plug going to the BLS... started the engine... pushed the brake pedal... the "VSS" icon on the display came on... "Brake Failure" message came on display... and the fuse blew.
    The "Check Engine" light continues to be on no matter what.
    The fuse in F1 (right fuse box) "Day Lights/Parking Lamps/Plate Lights" also blows... but I'm out of fuses and can't determine when, or what causes, it to blow.
    Continue to get codes P0504 & P061E
    I should have a new supply of fuses Monday or Tuesday so I can continue to trace this down.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Greg

  15. #15
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    6,982
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gjklockhart View Post
    With two more fuses left I did the following:
    Unplugged the connectors to the [Brake Light Switch & the Low Pressure Switch... started the engine... Hazard Lights worked and NO blown fuse in F2 (Brake Light/Hazard) (right fuse box)
    I tested the BLS & LPS with an ohm meter. Both were normally open and then closed when the brake pedal was pushed... so I'm guessing they're OK.
    I dis-connected both tail light assemblies... connected the just the plug going to the BLS... started the engine... pushed the brake pedal... the "VSS" icon on the display came on... "Brake Failure" message came on display... and the fuse blew.
    The "Check Engine" light continues to be on no matter what.
    The fuse in F1 (right fuse box) "Day Lights/Parking Lamps/Plate Lights" also blows... but I'm out of fuses and can't determine when, or what causes, it to blow.
    Continue to get codes P0504 & P061E
    I should have a new supply of fuses Monday or Tuesday so I can continue to trace this down.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Greg
    I think you have a short in the main harness. The wires to the pillion switch and the wires to all the rear lights are in that harness. The wires to all the rear lights go through the main to cargo harness connector. The pillion wires don't. Next, disconnect the main harness to cargo harness connector under the seat and the pillion switch. In fact you'll have to do the latter because to get good access to the connectors under there you'll have to remove the seat. Then do your test again, one fuse at a time. If both fuses blow and the VSS light comes on then that's a sure bet there is a short and/or broken wires in the main harness. If it was, in spite of what you think now, rodents chewing the wires you stand a good chance of fixing it. If you can't see the damage then it'll be time to take it to the dealer because the main harness is inside the frame. Take your ohm meter and see if there is continuity from one of the BLS wires to ground. There should not be. One of the wires is +12 volts (with a good fuse ) and the other goes to the brake light.

    Have you bought the service manual yet? If not you do need to do so. It's only about $30. www.canammanuals.com

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    6,982
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    OK, I just did some more reading in my 2014 service manual. The BLS and LPS both send signals into the ECM which then sends a signal to the VCM which produces the VSS error signal. Now I don't think the pillion switch is involved. I'm narrowing down my thinking to the conclusion you have a short to ground in the BLS wire between the switch and the tail light. As I said above, check for that with your ohm meter. Is the brake light on all the time, or only after you step on the brake?

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •