Is it OK to change before the scheduled 3000 mile oil change?
i purchased my 3rd SPYD3R in Dec. 2019, she's an F3-S SE6, 1330...
currently have 1500 miles of smiles on her, and am planning a multi-thousand mile ride...
QUESTION: since the 1st oil change is at 3000 miles, does anyone know if i should wait, or will it be ok to change it sooner than 3000 miles...
i knew a bit about SPYD3Rs, but this is something i've never seen on SL, and was wondering if anyone out there has knowledge enough to help me....
THX in advance...
Dan
Easley, SC
I'd definitely change oil. You don't say what year your F3 is, but from the picture it looks like a 2015. That oil has been in there a long time. Age of oil can be just as detrimental to the engine as miles.
Looks like a 2019 F3-S SE (top picture). If a lot of your trip miles are going to be freeway, I'd say it'd be ok to let it go to 3500, as highway miles are pretty easy on oil. If a lot of back road stuff, change it before you go. Just my .02
2022 RT Sea To Sky
--------------------------------
I'd definitely change oil. You don't say what year your F3 is, but from the picture it looks like a 2015. That oil has been in there a long time. Age of oil can be just as detrimental to the engine as miles.
2019 is the new one....
bottom pic is of my old 1... it's a 2015, and i traded it in for the '19 with 64,000 miles of smiles on her.... treated me EXTREMELY well for ever mile.....
If you're only going to run juuusssttt a smidge over the 3000 ie, 500-1000 miles or so, doing that is not usually a biggie & you should probably get away with it....
BUT, if you know you're going to go further than that, why not just change the oil & filters now?!? If you change your oil early, it's very unlikely to hurt anything; if you change it late, especially if you're going to be doing some longish daily runs, then there's a chance that it might hurt something....
So it comes down to 'very unlikely' weighed against 'might' - how Lucky do you feel?
I would change it for this reason. Very unlikely, but I'd want to know if there were unusual amounts of debris, metal, etc., in the oil before taking a long trip. The piece of mind it would give you would be worth the price. You're already concerned about it. Why not just put the service in the rear-view mirror and enjoy the trip?
When I bought my 14 RT, I drove it home from Ill., about 1500 mi. .... The first thing I did was to change the oil .... Why ??? .... 99 % of the debris from manufacturing is going to be found in the first 500 mi. ( and this has proven itself to be true based on multi-dozens of engines in various veh's ) .... I couldn't do it that soon, but I did it asap .... Oil is cheap ( really ) so if you are doing it - do it .... My 14 RT could very well be my last Spyder, I want to get 250,000 plus miles on the OEM engine..... good luck however you see it .... Mike great minds think alike ...ie. Ron and I were typing the same thing simultaneously
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-22-2020 at 10:23 PM.
Reason: Fixed display
2019 is the new one....
bottom pic is of my old 1... it's a 2015, and i traded it in for the '19 with 64,000 miles of smiles on her.... treated me EXTREMELY well for ever mile.....
Weird, when I posted my response in post #2 the picture of your '19 wasn't there, just the picture of your '15. I still think I'd change it if your going a lot over 3000 miles on your Spyder on your trip.
I would change it for this reason. Very unlikely, but I'd want to know if there were unusual amounts of debris, metal, etc., in the oil before taking a long trip. The piece of mind it would give you would be worth the price. You're already concerned about it. Why not just put the service in the rear-view mirror and enjoy the trip?
Thx Ron;
your words are comforting and i will do as you say....
hope to see you and Daniel at our next luncheon in April.... oh, that's IF if isn't cancelled due to this virus thingee.....
Dan
SPYD3R
Thx Ron;
your words are comforting and i will do as you say....
hope to see you and Daniel at our next luncheon in April.... oh, that's IF if isn't cancelled due to this virus thingee.....
Dan
SPYD3R
You have a Great Trip Dan. And congratulations on your new ride!
I'd also recommend changing it for the reasons already stated, and one other. That being the warranty. Very unlikely, but BRP or a dealer could cause you trouble with the warranty if you needed something and it went substantially over the recommended service interval. They can never cause you trouble for more frequent servicing.
I'd also recommend changing it for the reasons already stated, and one other. That being the warranty. Very unlikely, but BRP or a dealer could cause you trouble with the warranty if you needed something and it went substantially over the recommended service interval. They can never cause you trouble for more frequent servicing.
you are 100% correct....
however, other than WARANTEE WORK, i do all my own maintenance... that's half the fun of owning these toys....
Dan
UPDATE: as we now all know, this virus thingee, is get'n in the way of a lot of activities, not just riding, but most everything.... so my ride down to Florida is now on HOLD.... and the OIL CHANGE is now not that important... HOWEVER: the OEM oil that comes from the factory, is a 30W with high detergents... i'm think'n that maybe it's best to leave it there are recommended in the manual... another thing is, i use 100% synthetic oil, and BRP uses a 'blend'... so i'm now in no hurry to change it.... but THANX every1, for all your concern & help....
stay safe and ride carefully....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R
i purchased my 3rd SPYD3R in Dec. 2019, she's an F3-S SE6, 1330...
currently have 1500 miles of smiles on her, and am planning a multi-thousand mile ride...
QUESTION: since the 1st oil change is at 3000 miles, does anyone know if i should wait, or will it be ok to change it sooner than 3000 miles...
i knew a bit about SPYD3Rs, but this is something i've never seen on SL, and was wondering if anyone out there has knowledge enough to help me....
THX in advance...
Dan
Easley, SC
UPDATE: HOWEVER: the OEM oil that comes from the factory, is a 30W with high detergents... i'm think'n that maybe it's best to leave it there are recommended in the manual... another thing is, i use 100% synthetic oil, and BRP uses a 'blend'...
stay safe and ride carefully..
I'm interested in what info you have on the factory fill, especially the 30 weight, high detergent reference. Any other info you care to share?
No logical reason I can think of for high detergent, or a lighter weight than recommended in the book.
Your using a full synthetic is fine, and I still think it should be changed early.
I'm interested in what info you have on the factory fill, especially the 30 weight, high detergent reference. Any other info you care to share?
No logical reason I can think of for high detergent, or a lighter weight than recommended in the book.
Your using a full synthetic is fine, and I still think it should be changed early.
Carbonation;
maybe i'm wrong... afterall, i am human, and fallible.... but to my recollection during my 72 yrs, ALL new engines had 30W High-Detergent oil installed @ the factory.... maybe things have changed during my absents from the technical world... if i'm wrong; SORRY... reason for this was exactly what every1 is talking about; get the particles OUT of the engine, onto the magnet.... and clean out any/all garbage that was use to manufacture said engine...
as for MOTORCYCLE DAVE..... BINGO, your dad is 100% correct... oil is way cheaper than metal... he & i relate...
OK, OK, i'll change the stoopid oil... give me a few days so i can get down on the floor and remove the drain plugs... then another few days to get back up... get'n old HURTZ.....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R
Carbonation;
maybe i'm wrong... afterall, i am human, and fallible.... but to my recollection during my 72 yrs, ALL new engines had 30W High-Detergent oil installed @ the factory.... maybe things have changed during my absents from the technical world... if i'm wrong; SORRY... reason for this was exactly what every1 is talking about; get the particles OUT of the engine, onto the magnet.... and clean out any/all garbage that was use to manufacture said engine...
as for MOTORCYCLE DAVE..... BINGO, your dad is 100% correct... oil is way cheaper than metal... he & i relate...
OK, OK, i'll change the stoopid oil... give me a few days so i can get down on the floor and remove the drain plugs... then another few days to get back up... get'n old HURTZ.....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R
I was interested because I'm into lubricants and your info ran contrary to what I've researched. I'm not calling you out, or trying to be contrary in any manner. If appearing that way, apologies, and I'm sorry.
I'd change it for you just for giggles if you were in my neck of the woods.