I wish to mount a pair of LED driving lights. Are the lights switched positive or negative.
I have taken a pigtail from the high beam through a switch and to the relay. (pin 86). Power is pin 30, battery negative is pin 85 and lights is pin 87. There is a negative lead from the pigtail so I put that in the negative side of relay.
started bike up, lights as normal. Turned high beam on and tried the driving lights. Promptly blew the 20amp mini fusable link. in the fuse box.
Any ideas as to what I have done wrong.
I have wired quite a few driving light setups before so no stranger to doing this.
I recommend a fuse block energized via a relay that is activated only with the ignition on. Hook up accessories to that and avoid the bike's fussy electrics. I got this one....... https://www.banggood.com/DC12V24V32V...r_warehouse=CN
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
Pigtail from high beam was backwards - positive and negative were swapped about. Pin 30 power is from battery (fused 10amp).
Stupid mistake from me for not checking that power comes from the right wire.
I will post photo of how I mounted it later when I can.
Edit
Photos of lights installed. All my measurements are metric.
What I did was purchase some 16mm solid plastic rod.
Cut 2 lengths 30 and 75mm. Use a straight edge to make sure it is vertical and check measurement. These fit into the holes of wind deflector.
Drill 6mm hole through the length (lathe is handy for straight hole).
You will need longer bolts/screws, flat and spring washers. Flat washer between the bracket and the plastic rod.
Bracket: 30mm angle iron
Cut to 160 to 200mm long. At the 100mm bend 90 degree.
The wind deflector holes are 60mm center to center. Measure 20mm from bottom of bracket.
Then measure 60mm for the other hole.
I had to trim one side of the angle to allow for adjustment. Also try to make the horizontal part of the bracket as short as possible to stop any vibration.
The lights I used I got from a online 4wd store. 4” LED light bar. Current is 1.74 amp and 25 watt.
Wiring is as per any driving light setup (see Google). I did purchase a pigtail https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/123831660649. Saves having to cut into stock wiring. Just check that the colour coding is correct (mine was reversed).
Will have to see how much difference they will make to night riding.
In Australia our low beams are the US spec fog lights, highs are up top. I have a kit made by one of our riders here that turns on all 4 lights when high is selected. Also all my globes are LED.
Last edited by Fearless; 03-10-2020 at 05:52 PM.
Reason: Update
I wish to mount a pair of LED driving lights. Are the lights switched positive or negative.
Spyders are wired following the Japanese convention of doing almost all switching on the ground side of the load. US convention is to switch the power side.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.