I made a really nice set up for quick removal of clamps for my RT spyder in my snowmobile trailer utilizing the “U” groove that snowmobile trailers have for mounting the front skis. The front wheels simply wedge in “like” the original super clamps. I am using endless ratchet straps on the front wheels around the inside of the rim and against the home made chock. So the front is perfect. 30 seconds to install and 30 seconds to adjust and tighten. I went to set up D rings for the rear tire and ran into a problem. I was going to simply put a D ring infront and behind the tire and run the strap over the rear tire. The ratchet strap with hook Is to high and behind the fender/mud flap. I read a bunch of guys go over the tire even with the etrack setup. Which ratchet strap are you guys using so that you can ratchet it and not hit the flap with the ratchet? I found a bunch of pictures but none show the actual ratchet placement. Am I missing something or does the ratchet have to go on the front of the rear tire?
On many posts it says use $8.00 straps. Where are these $8.00 straps. I could use this but boy thats pretty expensive and dumb!
I made a really nice set up for quick removal of clamps for my RT spyder in my snowmobile trailer utilizing the “U” groove that snowmobile trailers have for mounting the front skis. The front wheels simply wedge in “like” the original super clamps. I am using endless ratchet straps on the front wheels around the inside of the rim and against the home made chock. So the front is perfect. 30 seconds to install and 30 seconds to adjust and tighten. I went to set up D rings for the rear tire and ran into a problem. I was going to simply put a D ring infront and behind the tire and run the strap over the rear tire. The ratchet strap with hook Is to high and behind the fender/mud flap. I read a bunch of guys go over the tire even with the etrack setup. Which ratchet strap are you guys using so that you can ratchet it and not hit the flap with the ratchet? I found a bunch of pictures but none show the actual ratchet placement. Am I missing something or does the ratchet have to go on the front of the rear tire?
On many posts it says use $8.00 straps. Where are these $8.00 straps. I could use this but boy thats pretty expensive and dumb!
Welcome to the " Ratchet strap club " …. I started ( ie. discovered ) using this method 6 or so years ago, I posted it here and now many people use them ….. I bought some on *-**y that were rated at 4000lbs, they were one inch wide for $10.00 …. my ratchet device is much smaller than what you picture above, my tire is in ( sort of ) Cradle and attaches at the front and rear of the tire at floor level. Look in my Albums for pics ( Loading and securing an RT in a small truck ) ….. Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 02-25-2020 at 01:12 PM.
This is what I just bought and will use when the Spyder goes in the Toy Hauler or an my flat bed trailer. Obviously, these are made for anchoring to E Track, which is what I use. The end of the strap anchors into the e track, then goes over the top of the tire and down to the other side of the tire. The idler roller is also attached to the e track and is placed so that the strap runs through the roller assembly. The roller is actually a little bit "under" the leading edge of the tire in both the front and the back anchor points. Then the ratchet assembly is anchored to the e track and once everything is in place, just ratchet it down and your set. I will be using one on each front tire. These are made by Erickson and I found them on Amazon for $18.50 each.
Can’t use the picture in post #3. There is only 10 inches behind spyder to the ramp door in the snowmobile trailer. I also have a fifth wheel toyhauler that only has an 11’ garage. I am this setup on both trailers. So I can’t use that either on the toyhauler for the rear tire is about 3 inches from the beaver tail drop. I need to go straight down. I looked at your picture blueknight. I have an idea I am going to play with. I am going to drill out the pin part a replace with a bolt and wing it bolt and a ring in the center or possibly use a removable chain link and then simply use a heady duty S hook. That will give me 7” total from hook to top of ratchet. To open the ratchet all the way and release the tension I need it to be less than 12” so 7” is the total. I think it will work. Need to play with an old ratchet first.
Can’t use the picture in post #3. There is only 10 inches behind spyder to the ramp door in the snowmobile trailer. I also have a fifth wheel toyhauler that only has an 11’ garage. I am this setup on both trailers. So I can’t use that either on the toyhauler for the rear tire is about 3 inches from the beaver tail drop. I need to go straight down. I looked at your picture blueknight. I have an idea I am going to play with. I am going to drill out the pin part a replace with a bolt and wing it bolt and a ring in the center or possibly use a removable chain link and then simply use a heady duty S hook. That will give me 7” total from hook to top of ratchet. To open the ratchet all the way and release the tension I need it to be less than 12” so 7” is the total. I think it will work. Need to play with an old ratchet first.
I just went to the garage and measured my Ratchet Device - it measured 4 7/8",.... you don't need a Two in. wide strap and a very large ratchet device..... I spend as little money as possible to achieve a result , sometimes trying to make what you have costs way more than starting over with a better product. …..jmho , good luck ….. Mike
As an additional bit of info for the strap system I am going to use, like what is pictured in post #3...I bought 4' sections of e track. The amount of e track that is in front of the front wheel will be about 4 or 5 inches. There will be plenty of room behind the front wheel to attach the ratchet device and be able to pull the strap down right. But I am strapping the front wheels, not the rear. Doing it this way, almost the entire 4 foot length of the track is within the length of the bike, with the exception of that 4 inches or so up front
BlueKnight your picture gave me a great idea...I've got it figured out. I will post pictures once its all together. 1" ratchet will work perfect. No need for the hook anymore. I am welding a piece of angle on the chock at the bottom. The chock snaps into the floor with snowmobile tie downs.
This is a really cool product I redesigned specifically for the multiple uses and securing the Spyder to the trailer. I redesigned the front chucks so the straps go around the chocks themselves with endless ratchet straps. This will stop front and back and up and down. The rear tire strapped down will prevent up and down and will pass laws when I cross into Canada. I have had them check sleds before. I want no questions if they ever look in my enclosed trailer.
Might want to check this company out if you are looking for a really good tie down/anchore device for the Spyder. Can be used in toy haulers, snowmobile and open trailers too. I made mine all out of aluminum. I used bolts and wing nuts rather than pins.
I've never hauled a Can Am but I (and many others) have hauled 2 wheel motorcycles with a single strap on each of the 2 front forks. Nothing in the back. If you're going to haul over a really bumpy road, run a single strap with an old piece of carpet (shaggy side down) over the seat. I'll bet a single strap OVER each front tire would work just fine.
2 straps over the front are fine or 1 on the back is fine. Neither will move. If you cross the border Canada specifies both need secured. I have seen guys fined with sleds not properly anchored and pulled over too. I want an easy on/off no fuss and remove so I have room when Spyder not in there for open floorplan and not worry about border questioning anything.
Update.....so I picked up the new Spyder this past Friday and loaded it on my 6' x 10' utility trailer. I had a 450 mile drive home (Nashville, IL to Maryville, TN). I strapped the bike down using the same setup as pictured in post 3, only strapping the front tires. The one thing you need to make sure you do, if you use this method is to make sure that the idler roller is placed back under the tire a bit. If you don't, you run the risk of the strap pulling up against the end (back side) of the fender and possibly cracking it. So 450 miles later and over interstate highways with potholes, lane changes, and rough pavement I arrived home and the bike had not moved at all.
When putting the straps on snug them down just a little bit, then release the parking and finish tightening the ratchet straps. This allows the bike to "move" into the strapped down position. The go ahead and set the parking brake again and you're ready to transport the bike.
Tie down (ratchet) over rear tire
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Originally Posted by Wmoater
