Does anyone know who I can purchase extra bolts and washers from. Seems that every time I take the tupper wear off I seem to not have as many as I did when I took off the tupper wear!
Does anyone know who I can purchase extra bolts and washers from. Seems that every time I take the tupper wear off I seem to not have as many as I did when I took off the tupper wear!
Consider this:
ziploc sandwich bags, taped to the piece of tupperware that's removed. No loss. Ace Hardware usually has a great selection of fasteners.
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
+1 for Ace Hardware. I like Lew's bag idea, or at least a compartmented tray to put fasteners in. Like a frozen dinner tray.
Put an old area rug on the garage floor, under your bike. When you drop something, it won't go bouncing off into the great unknown. It's easier on the knees too.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
+1 for Ace Hardware. I like Lew's bag idea, or at least a compartmented tray to put fasteners in. Like a frozen dinner tray.
Put an old area rug on the garage floor, under your bike. When you drop something, it won't go bouncing off into the great unknown. It's easier on the knees too.
Thanx for the Ace Hardware +1 I'm a Manager in one of the busiest/ largest Ace in the country......I use a ice cube tray to keep everything sorted
Another idea is to use a magic marker and number the panels on the inside....1 through whatever and then, using the ziploc baggies, put the fasteners in the bag and mark it with the panel number. If you panel cover is a very dark color, you could also use a white paint stick or just use a piece of masking tape and mark the number on it......on the inside of the panel of course.
Thanks to everyone. I have the clear baggies. I tried to leave the screws/bolts in the parts they came on or screwed back into the bike and they;ll be there later. But, somehow they just get away. Funny to me was how you guys said you put them in baggies , trays and such. But were very quick to point me to ACE! My local ACE does not have bolts that look like original equipment.
Many times, on motorcycles, the only way to get a bolt/screw that is exactly the same as OEM is to buy an OEM bolt or screw. Lots of times the head of the bolt is a special size...or there is a "spacer" shank as part of the bolt, not to mention Allen head, Torx, or Phillips head. If it is a bolt or screw that is visible and you are anal about the way it looks, OEM is your best bet....but be warned, they are more expensive than a generic bolt of the same size.
Many times, on motorcycles, the only way to get a bolt/screw that is exactly the same as OEM is to buy an OEM bolt or screw. Lots of times the head of the bolt is a special size...or there is a "spacer" shank as part of the bolt, not to mention Allen head, Torx, or Phillips head. If it is a bolt or screw that is visible and you are anal about the way it looks, OEM is your best bet....but be warned, they are more expensive than a generic bolt of the same size.
Truth is, I have took a lot of OEM bolts out and tossed them in the trash, to replace them with better bolts from the hardware store. The cases on early Japanese bikes were almost all assembled with Phillips head bolts that would strip out if you didn't use an impact driver to break them loose. Sometimes they would strip out if you used the impact driver. I never put one of the Phillips head bolts back in a case. I replaced every one I took out with hex socket head bolts. At times I had to cut them off to get the right length, but it was better than the OEM. I have already replaced several bolts on the Spyder with better bolts. Just because they are OEM does not make them the best for the job. Some OEM bolts were used because they were less expensive.
For nuts and nolts there is usually a local nuts nuts and bolt store that carry identical nuts and bolts. For the push pins you can get them from Spyderpops.com. or even Amazon.
Truth is, I have took a lot of OEM bolts out and tossed them in the trash, to replace them with better bolts from the hardware store. The cases on early Japanese bikes were almost all assembled with Phillips head bolts that would strip out if you didn't use an impact driver to break them loose. Sometimes they would strip out if you used the impact driver. I never put one of the Phillips head bolts back in a case. I replaced every one I took out with hex socket head bolts. At times I had to cut them off to get the right length, but it was better than the OEM. I have already replaced several bolts on the Spyder with better bolts. Just because they are OEM does not make them the best for the job. Some OEM bolts were used because they were less expensive.
Now I don't feel so bad. I thought I was the only one who could screw up half the heads of the screws (bolts) on my rice burners during my younger days. One of my solutions was to use a dremel tool to cut a slot for a flat screw driver blade. Had to crack them loose sometimes with a small punch or chisel. Anything back then for a high schooler was expensive. If i could get it screwed back in so it was tight, i reused it hopped I didn't have to ever take it back out.
Truth is, I have took a lot of OEM bolts out and tossed them in the trash, to replace them with better bolts from the hardware store. The cases on early Japanese bikes were almost all assembled with Phillips head bolts that would strip out if you didn't use an impact driver to break them loose. Sometimes they would strip out if you used the impact driver. I never put one of the Phillips head bolts back in a case. I replaced every one I took out with hex socket head bolts. At times I had to cut them off to get the right length, but it was better than the OEM. I have already replaced several bolts on the Spyder with better bolts. Just because they are OEM does not make them the best for the job. Some OEM bolts were used because they were less expensive.
I've been there, done that. I worked at a motorcycle shop in 1972 and you're right, every screw was Phillips and an impact driver was usually required. The point I was trying to make was that if you want the same exact bolt for a "how it looks" along side the others, OEM is the way to go, but they are not necessarily better quality. Bolts that aren't exposed (behind covers, etc) use what you want
The screws on Japanese bikes that look like Philips, aren't - they are JAS screws and will strip when being torqued with a Philips screwdriver. Look closely and you'll a notch in the slot that Philips do not have.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
The bolts (99% of them) are 6mm x 20mm. I ordered a bag of 50 on McMaster Carr. For the washers, I found black steel 1/4" / 6mm washers in another bag of 50. I like the stainless steel look anyways - swapped all black bolts out on last oil change.
The screws on Japanese bikes that look like Philips, aren't - they are JAS screws and will strip when being torqued with a Philips screwdriver. Look closely and you'll a notch in the slot that Philips do not have.
It wouldn't have mattered what they was. The only hardware store in town was a Western Auto and they didn't have much in the way of tools. Had to ride over to another county to get the impact driver and a handful of apex bits. I had to order my set of metric tools from Sears. Nobody in town sold metric tools back then.
Extra Bolts and washers
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Originally Posted by eelcram
